Brake overhaul: If you questioned it, do it!! (1 Viewer)

[Czar]

Holy ***t what a difference. I could stop but never in a million years thought I could lock up my wheels during a non-panic stop with this truck.

Parts:

Napa reman calipers F/R - $58.00 F/$62.00 R
Performance brake Slotted rotors - $260.00
MAF Stainless lines
Toyota brake hardware (Clips etc)
NAPA 80 Pads

If you were ever on the fence about this don't be, its well worth the investment. The truck stops better than my 2012 Fusion.

 

[uabericm]

I need to do this.

 

[Flank]

Very True! I hear a lot of people with an under-maintained braking system complain about how 80 series brakes suck. They are wrong - when the brakes are allowed to work to potential - they can put you though the windshield.

 

[bhmmapping]

If I were going to do this I would use toyota rotors, 100 series pads, and toyota soft lines.

 

[ybhc]

If I were going to do this I would use toyota rotors, 100 series pads, and toyota soft lines.

There's nothing wrong wih napa pads, the calipers are probably OEM parts in a napa or altrom box.

Brake lines depend on whether they start losing outer layers like some others SS lines have reportedly done

Slotted and drilled rotors are a waste imo, all the 80 needs is a vented disc, which all 80 rotors are. Especially since even OEM rotors are quite a bit cheaper than those with discount.

 

[Flank]

More Importantly - if you suspect you have a problem with your brakes, then YOU DO! Reman or OEM or 3rd party - service and replacement of parts is essential!

Keep in mind, guys, that the brakes are what keeps the 6000 projectile from killing everything in it's path!

 

[Czar]

There's nothing wrong wih napa pads, the calipers are probably OEM parts in a napa or altrom box.

Brake lines depend on whether they start losing outer layers like some others SS lines have reportedly done

Slotted and drilled rotors are a waste imo, all the 80 needs is a vented disc, which all 80 rotors are. Especially since even OEM rotors are quite a bit cheaper than those with discount.

The NAPA remans were OEM castings with the Toyota identification mark shaved off. I wanted to try the slotted rotors so I got them, shipping is what kills most deals for us east coast guys. The MAF lines look top notch but the rears were not a direct fit (clip mount had to be dremeled). I think my next step is hard line replacement.

 

[Eicca]

It was $58 apiece for the front calipers, right?

 

[FlashBeeZy]

Could I do this on my 92? Or would I need to go the route of bigger wheels...

I'd really like disc in the rear as well..

 

[Eicca]

Swapping in a disc-braked rear axle isn't too big of a job, I've heard. Just a matter of unbolting and rebolting.

 

[Czar]

It was $58 apiece for the front calipers, right?

Yes.

I forgot to mention that this is the AAA discount price. They don't care where you get the member number, as long as its valid.

 

[Eicca]

What is it without discount? Per caliper?

 

[Czar]

What is it without discount? Per caliper?

I want to say $90.00. I know the rears are around 110.

 

[New80Owner]

What was wrong with your old calipers?

I just rebuild my front and rears, but thought may be i'll just replace ment since the price is pretty damn good.

Also, for the rears did they come with mounting hardware or just the cylinder?

 

[canman]

I just replaced my front pads, front DS rotor, rear PS rotor and pads with Toyota OEM parts (couldn't replace everything due to fact I needed the truck on the road the following day). With my wife pumping the brakes while I was bleeding, I noticed that the front rubber lines would "buldge" a bit when I closed the bleeder valve while she pumped. After I buttoned everything up, I tried a few panic stops on a gravel road and really couldn't get the brakes to lock. In fact, I don't think I have ever locked up the brakes. Should I look at reman calipers and possibly new rubber lines (I have new OEM rubber lines for the front (extended) I purchased from a fellow mudder but didn't bother to install them)?

 

[Czar]

new80:

The old calipers look rough (Rust, general corrosion). I really hope I get my full core back, I mean c'mon this is the northeast how nice can it be after 15 years. For the price I really didn't feel like messing with it. The fronts and rears were complete: bracket, clips, wear indicator, copper crush washers for the brake line and rattle clips. I actually bought all new fitting kits from one of our parts vendors just in case, but to my surprise the NAPA stuff looked identical except for the front pad pins, the NAPA ones seemed a bit "skinny".

Canman:

Sounds like you have a slow or frozen piston. The right side of my front right piston was frozen, and i suspect the rears were barely working. Take a look at your pads, if you notice one side a bit more worn than the other then (especially up front) you solved your problem. If your pistons suck, rotors and pads won't help.

If your brakes don't plant your face in the windshield, there is something wrong.

I actually managed not to introduce too much air into my system during the line swap. It took just 3-4 cycles per bleed screw to get all the air out.

 

[Stylo07]

I can attest to this, too. I installed front remanufactured OEM calipers, 100 series pads and OEM rotors. Not only does it stop well, but the pedal feel is noticeably improved. I just completed a 1400 mile trip to Gulf Shores, AL, in a 2013 Ford Explorer, and I prefer the brake feel of my cruiser. I'll be doing the rear brakes this weekend.

 

[jamisobe]

I just replaced my front pads, front DS rotor, rear PS rotor and pads with Toyota OEM parts (couldn't replace everything due to fact I needed the truck on the road the following day). With my wife pumping the brakes while I was bleeding, I noticed that the front rubber lines would "buldge" a bit when I closed the bleeder valve while she pumped. After I buttoned everything up, I tried a few panic stops on a gravel road and really couldn't get the brakes to lock. In fact, I don't think I have ever locked up the brakes. Should I look at reman calipers and possibly new rubber lines (I have new OEM rubber lines for the front (extended) I purchased from a fellow mudder but didn't bother to install them)?

If you lock up the brakes on a 97 you are having problems with your ABS. It should be relatively easy to get the ABS system to operate during fast braking where your tires are losing adhesion.

 

[ColoradoYeti]

I also did a rear brake job (calipers, rotors and pads) a couple weekends ago and can confirm the remanufactured calipers from NAPA were exactly what came off the truck. Must be why the core is $85 on a $60 caliper. They know they are getting a good shell back.

As for improvements, its night and day. I got rid of my bumper dive on hard stops. I think a lot of people that have that issue and chaulk it up to worn springs should do brakes first and bleed the LSP valve.

 

[mossback]

I am so looking forward to this! I've got new rotors on already. New OEM soft lines and remanned calipers are going on in the next couple days. Dang I need a day off!