Brake MC sounds like kIlling a goose. Source for OE parts? (1 Viewer)

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Paul I have a friend trying to source the entire unit (47050-60010) but I've called around and even looked overseas. Seems none available at the moment and no ETA for future availability. We are trying to weigh his options.

I can find the 47070-60010 (pump motor and accumulator). So are you saying if I can find a 'Master' for his year model (1998 LC) we can pair the two parts and make a complete unit? And IF so....do you happen to know that part number?
47070-60010 (pump motor and accumulator) fits all master 98-07, has been my understanding for years. So yes!
But check at www.Partsouq.com. Their supper accurate (99.9%). Run checks on an 98 or 99 LC VIN #, than say and run check on a 07 LC or LX VIN #. You should see the same PN# for booster assembly (no master). Don't just try to finding make & model, with out a VIN # . As you'll be shock at global variation in platform. PM for VIN#'s if you need some.

The issue has been finding that master W/ or w/o booster. For the the 98-99

If you can't and need, Question is; Can the newer master work on older model with only 1 rear brake line of rear lock equipped 98-99 LC. When Toyota took out the rear locker, they went w/two rear brake line. Which Lexus never had locker IIRC, which don't recall if they had 1 or 2 to the rear. So hunt with a Lexus VIN # also, may help.

I would think to adapt newer to older, either we run a second brake line set-up of the 2000 up. We may be able to plug the second line port at master, IDK. Or use a custom Y fitting to the 1 line running to rear. Test would be necessary for safe operation and pressures.

But then we've the wire housings to deal with. We 3 different configuration I'm sure of, their may be a 4rd or 5th LC/LX. The main difference is 98-99 LC did not have the pressure sensor. Nit sure about LX 98-99.

In early manufactured 2000LC they add the pressure sensor. A type

In Aug 2000 -2007 they changed that to B type pressure sensor.

Wire harness coming to pressure sensors are different. But here we may be able to swap harness housing block or just the swap sensor. I've both pressure sensor on hand.

Then we've the wire blocks that connect to the ABS unit (black plastic box on side of master). Again study and some mods may or may not be need.

Then we've the Brake control computer (under dash hung on pedal bracket). We may need to swap out IDK.

This is all cutting edge and is nothing something I do for someone. Unless I keep and test drove in all weather/road condition over the long haul.

But if his issue is a failed booster motor. You can just install a replacement booster motor. Either the booster assy, booster w/ just pump and wire. Or have booster motor rebuilt. Lot of shop do that, or you could do yourself. I've seen your work ;)
Unfortunately all to often, this approach which increases pressure to near or at factory new pressure levels. Reveals a bad seal in the master. Which Tragically happens within a year. Then we hear the "Killing a Goose". Then over time it get worst and motor will run excessively. Clue to if seal, will handle the pressure, is color of fluid, how fast flushed fluid turns dark again and stains in reservoir. Clear fluid and no staining, it a good bet seal good. Dark fluid and stained reservoir, is sign seal will fail fast.

It's for this lack of availability, I'm holding some old dead master. In that I one day with time. I'll see if I can get the back open, to get at that seal. Factory install a thread plugs, or so it looks like. But center punched the side over the plugs, to lock it in. Then we've still the question of can we get seal and whatever else needed. If so, one day we may have rebuilt masters. We don't know how long Toyota will keep supplying any., so we may need Seem on 98-99 we need now.

Another idea I've heard of. Is installing a vacuum type brake system system. It has been done.

Let me know if I've confused the issue. Call text or PM if you'd like to talk anytime. This is a safety issue, so no room for any errors.



Much cheaper in USA these days. Save shipping and duty fees also. Saves about $900. But for how long IDK!


Cancelled the previous order, and placed order for the RIGHT part number!! They had no problem doing that. Thank you so much for catching my error!!!

Now I wait to see if they are actually able to source the part. I'll believe it when I get shipping/tracking info. 🤞🤞🤞
You're more than welcome. Those guys as most Dealership parts guys, are great and know their stuff.

My local guys let me parts in, just to look at within reason of price point. For that reason, and I can return no question no fees, and stuff like radiator, racks and FDS come undamaged. I don't mind paying little more. Also I get parts fast.
 

flintknapper

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I saw that this morning when I was searching as well....but was confused by it. On the one hand it says they have 4 in stock, but when you look right below that (same part) it says none available and I've had a few parts from Partsouq be cancelled when they didn't actually have the item.
 
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@flintknapper Good news. I just checked at Local Toyota dealership on PN# 47050-60010 in USA. "There is a bunch of them", and more in transit.



Below pic: Was North America 2-8-22 at Toyota. So I ordered master and booster assemble separately, and got them next day. Cost more and had more labor putting together. But smile on clients face when ready. He said, Lexus want $6K and 2 weeks. Few weeks later 45 of the ----43's available.

It believed Toyota can not see whats in Lexus depots, and certainly not at LX Dealerships (unless LX & LC Dealership has same owner and cross software). So I always call my Lexus guy when Toyota doesn't have a PN#, they are most the same.

Availability and pricing changes daily.

IMG_6872.JPEG
 
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Eyedaho

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I saw that this morning when I was searching as well....but was confused by it. On the one hand it says they have 4 in stock, but when you look right below that (same part) it says none available and I've had a few parts from Partsouq be cancelled when they didn't actually have the item.
My experience with Partsouq leads me to believe they have multiple warehouse locations, since they often list the same item twice with different lead times (often 7-10 days for the longer one), with different stocking quantities listed for both.
 
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I don't mean to thread-jack .... but for the 2nd time in a year my 2000 LX had the "dying goose" sound upon startup.

First time it happened was August of last year in Moab after being parked during a monsoon. Made the sound for like 15 seconds and that was it. Stopped and didn't come back .... until .... last week. Started it up and it made that same sound for about 15 seconds and stopped. Then it happened once again randomly while driving. Again, it went away and didn't come back.

My assumption at this point is that it is dying a slow death....and will get worse over time.

So, I'm wondering. With a 2000 LX, which part number would I need for the whole thing (brake master and accumulator)? I apologize in advance. I've been trying to follow this thread and the various part numbers ... but I'm going a bit cross-eyed doing so. Haha.

Oh, and a separate question --- what is a reasonable cost to pay for install on this from a shop?

Thanks in advance!!
 
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I don't mean to thread-jack .... but for the 2nd time in a year my 2000 LX had the "dying goose" sound upon startup.

First time it happened was August of last year in Moab after being parked during a monsoon. Made the sound for like 15 seconds and that was it. Stopped and didn't come back .... until .... last week. Started it up and it made that same sound for about 15 seconds and stopped. Then it happened once again randomly while driving. Again, it went away and didn't come back.

My assumption at this point is that it is dying a slow death....and will get worse over time.

So, I'm wondering. With a 2000 LX, which part number would I need for the whole thing (brake master and accumulator)? I apologize in advance. I've been trying to follow this thread and the various part numbers ... but I'm going a bit cross-eyed doing so. Haha.

Thanks in advance!!
Yep that is the pattern.

2000 is a split year. Use your VIN # at partsourq to check. Then again wherever you order in USA, or just call your local Dealership.
Your either ---41 or --- 42 is my best guess
These are brake master w/booster assembly (The whole master, and best deal in USA market)
Partsouq is not best deal today, but good info on which PN based on VIN #...

or the
 
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Yep that is the pattern.

2000 is a split year. Use your VIN # at partsourq to check. Then again wherever you order in USA, or just call your local Dealership.
Your either ---41 or --- 42 is my best guess
These are brake master w/booster assembly (The whole master, and best deal in USA market)
Partsouq is not best deal today, but good info on which PN based on VIN #...

or the

Awesome, THANK YOU!
 
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My experience with Partsouq leads me to believe they have multiple warehouse locations, since they often list the same item twice with different lead times (often 7-10 days for the longer one), with different stocking quantities listed for both.
They actually have 1 warehouse and that’s just where they box up and ship stuff. No inventory is kept on hand. The stock numbers all come from different dealerships reporting what parts they have on hand and are willing to sell.
 
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They actually have 1 warehouse and that’s just where they box up and ship stuff. No inventory is kept on hand. The stock numbers all come from different dealerships reporting what parts they have on hand and are willing to sell.
That's impress I got.
 
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I don't mean to thread-jack .... but for the 2nd time in a year my 2000 LX had the "dying goose" sound upon startup.

First time it happened was August of last year in Moab after being parked during a monsoon. Made the sound for like 15 seconds and that was it. Stopped and didn't come back .... until .... last week. Started it up and it made that same sound for about 15 seconds and stopped. Then it happened once again randomly while driving. Again, it went away and didn't come back.

My assumption at this point is that it is dying a slow death....and will get worse over time.

So, I'm wondering. With a 2000 LX, which part number would I need for the whole thing (brake master and accumulator)? I apologize in advance. I've been trying to follow this thread and the various part numbers ... but I'm going a bit cross-eyed doing so. Haha.

Oh, and a separate question --- what is a reasonable cost to pay for install on this from a shop?

Thanks in advance!!

My 2000 LC started making the dying seagull screech after rain. Also on mornings with a lot of dew. Started out brief and infrequent and increased over a year or two to 20 minutes non-stop and eventually complete power brake failure a few times.

It seemed to me that the screeching stopped after an amount of time at a speed and under weather conditions that would allow electrical components to dry somewhat.

So I opened every electrical connection on the ABS unit. They all showed signs of condensation being in there frequently and what I suspected was tarnishing. So I lightly sanded every connection with fine wet/dry sandpaper. Sprayed electrical cleaner everywhere. Blew everything out well with a compressor. Should have used some dielectric grease when reconnecting but I didn't have any.

Problem solved. It made a very light squeak a time or two after rain so I recleaned everything again. Drove for 2 years with the problem eliminated, even after cold rain (which was always the worst).

It seemed worth cleaning things up and giving it another shot before replacing the module. Again, in my case the problem was 100% solved. Went from insane screeching and failure to no problem at all.

I hope someone else has the luck I did!
 
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That's interesting! Not sure my experience is the same, though. Big Girl sits in the garage most of the time, completely dry. I have another vehicle I use for around town stuff and errands. I've put less than 3K miles on the LC in the last year. The day it squawked was perfectly dry, low humidity, temp in the low 50s. It did it for about a mile of driving, then I pulled off into a parking lot to see WTH was going on. Left it running, popped the hood, located the noise, and saw the fluid spurting in the reservoir. Then I turned the ignition off, let it think about what it had done, and then restarted. Drove the remaining 5 miles or so back home with not a peep.
 
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My 2000 LC started making the dying seagull screech after rain. Also on mornings with a lot of dew. Started out brief and infrequent and increased over a year or two to 20 minutes non-stop and eventually complete power brake failure a few times.

It seemed to me that the screeching stopped after an amount of time at a speed and under weather conditions that would allow electrical components to dry somewhat.

So I opened every electrical connection on the ABS unit. They all showed signs of condensation being in there frequently and what I suspected was tarnishing. So I lightly sanded every connection with fine wet/dry sandpaper. Sprayed electrical cleaner everywhere. Blew everything out well with a compressor. Should have used some dielectric grease when reconnecting but I didn't have any.

Problem solved. It made a very light squeak a time or two after rain so I recleaned everything again. Drove for 2 years with the problem eliminated, even after cold rain (which was always the worst).

It seemed worth cleaning things up and giving it another shot before replacing the module. Again, in my case the problem was 100% solved. Went from insane screeching and failure to no problem at all.

I hope someone else has the luck I did!
This is interesting. The 20 minutes long non stop screeching, surely resulted in dash lights. Did you also see bubbles coming up front of reservoir at same time as sound?

Increased resistance to motor, will slow motors RPM. The slower the motor RPMs, the longer it takes for pressure to build and the lower pressure reached. When I test runs time of booster motor. I also check voltage at battery. Low voltage, always result in longer run times.

I would be very concerned with the commutator and bushes of your booster motor at this point. FSM warns us, not to run booster motor longer than 2 minutes. 20 minutes is excessive. As it's designed for frequent, but short run times. Longer run times product excessive heat. Taking motor apart and inspect brushes & commutator, may be advisable.

That's interesting! Not sure my experience is the same, though. Big Girl sits in the garage most of the time, completely dry. I have another vehicle I use for around town stuff and errands. I've put less than 3K miles on the LC in the last year. The day it squawked was perfectly dry, low humidity, temp in the low 50s. It did it for about a mile of driving, then I pulled off into a parking lot to see WTH was going on. Left it running, popped the hood, located the noise, and saw the fluid spurting in the reservoir. Then I turned the ignition off, let it think about what it had done, and then restarted. Drove the remaining 5 miles or so back home with not a peep.
This sound like the typical master seal failure. In early stages it tends to accrue more, before brake seal warm up.

Warm up: As we use brake, fluid temperature increases. The seals warm (expand), than system works normal. But over time, screeching becomes more frequent in occurrence & duration, and will happen at higher OATs (out side air temp)


_________________________________

In each case that I've seen or heard of. Where bubbles (spurting) seen coming up front of reservoir, at same time as screeching. The only cure has been master replacement.

I, and others I've worked on this screeching issue with bubbles. We've tried replacing every other components (other than main body of master), one by one. Both with used and new parts. This included the ABS unit (black box on side). Nothing would stop the condition, except replacement of master. In-fact as we increased pressure, by replacing pump, motor, wire and or accumulator. Condition very often worsened in frequency & duration.

We also found a pattern. If reservoir stained or and excessively fluid dark. Which both indicate improper PM. Then fluid flushed ( proper PM) and turned dark again fast. 8 out of 10 times. Increasing the pressure, and condition of screening with bubbles would occur with in 1 yr. It became most apparent during winter months when OAT dropped. But over time, would happen with great frequency and at higher OATs.

There are other condition, not actually issue of master loosing of pressure. Where we hear alarm. In these cases, master seal failure, is likely not far behind.

These too tend to show themselves most often before fluid heats. The brake alarm and dash lights come on, typically first few minutes of use. Then as fluid heats, alarms clears themselves as pressure comes up. Interesting too. In some they first show up after brake job, they get better after pads wear.

This is where seal of caliper piston don't hold pressure well, until heated (expanded). This one we may get brake alarm, which some mistakenly call screeching, and dash lights. The alarms, to some, sound like the ("killing a goose" "screeching" "dying seagull). This can just be tried caliper piston seal(s).

In some of these cases, the caliper piston themselves are pitted. In these pitting cases. They'll very often show themselves, after a brake job. Where we adding new pads and possible rotors. This pushes pistons all the way in. Surface area of piston, that spent the most time in fluid. Which is where pitting is found the most. Now are in contact (pits) with seal(s). Than as brakes wear (pads & rotors). Piston push out. Now seal contact surface at point, not pitted. Which is surface area that's not spent as much of it's life in fluid area. The pitting is from moisture in the brake fluid. Which moisture is why, brake fluid must be replace on regular basis. As it attracts and retains moisture. The moisture not only causes brake fluid to boil at lower temp, resulting in poor braking. But moisture damages the system and builds up damages seals

BTW: Very easy to test brake alarm function and get too know its sound. Pump brake pedal rapidly with IG key on. Alarm and dash light will come on. Stop pumping pedal, than once pressure builds back up into range. Alarms stop.
 
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Cancelled the previous order, and placed order for the RIGHT part number!! They had no problem doing that. Thank you so much for catching my error!!!

Now I wait to see if they are actually able to source the part. I'll believe it when I get shipping/tracking info. 🤞🤞🤞
I promised a follow up, so here it is. McGeorge Toyota just sent me a FEDEX tracking number that my part (#47050-60043 - Master and booster - entire assembly) is on its way. FedEx says Friday delivery. My price out the door with 10% TN sales tax added was $1,481.78

$1,310.94 for the part
$39.30 Shipping
$131.64 for TN sales tax.
 
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I couldn't say that it was exactly 20 minutes but it was an interminable inferno of screeching, dash lights, eventual alarm, and finally failure of power braking. I was still able to stop but there wasn't power boost and they were greatly reduced. All this would pass after an amount of time driving or waiting that seemed about right for the condensation to dry out.

Without thinking about it too much, it seemed to me that possibly the motor was getting the signal to run but wasn't getting the signal to turn off when pressure was achieved. Which led me to cleaning the connections.

It was clearly moisture related. I think the metal connections would get condensation and it affected the current flow. The plastic connection housings held moisture in and would slow drying. And the connections are not designed to be airtight so they allowed humid air in to interact with cold metal.

Secondly, I wondered if the mix of the metal alloy wasn't contributing to this with tarnishing and oxidization. When I opened the connections to air them out and then reconnected I could get home but the screeching always returned quickly. But the connections are holding in moisture and I think this accelerated oxidization. It was only after lightly sanding the connections and liberal use of electrical cleaner and blowing out with a compressor that the problem went away completely. And was gone for the next 2 years I drove the truck.

I decided that if the screeching ever started to return I'd re-clean the connections and seal them closed with electrical tape. But it never came back.

I never checked to see if there was fluid spraying in the resovoir or anything like that. I just checked to make sure nothing was leaking. Which it wasn't. Fluid level never changed nor deviated from normal. I didn't think to check the inside of the resovoir etc while it was actively screeching.

I worried that the motor had fried but remarkably it continued to operate perfectly normally for two years afterward. Driving daily. Motor sounded perfectly normal, braking was perfectly normal in every way. Like it never happened. Presumably it's more worn. But I don't think a worn motor causes the screeching. I think it's the motor running properly but in a too high pressure environment. I think the screech is because of high pressure.

My tractor hydraulic system is the same- there's a pressure bypass valve or whatever it's called that when fluid pressure is too high it releases. The fluid flow makes a very similar screech. And equally annoying. Someone more knowledgeable than I about hydraulic systems could chime in about this. But brakes are simply a hydraulic system and the ABS motor is the pump. And excessive pressure in a hydraulic system makes a screech.

After two years the frame was full of rust holes and it was due for a major renewal I parked the truck and now it's donating parts to my new to me LC. It's a tragic loss but it lives in in a new rust free body.

But the fact that the truck was in New England, rusted and was exposed to that climate, leads me back to oxidization being the culprit. My current rig always lived in Florida, is a year older and has more miles, yet the ABS is original and trouble free.

There's no way I'm the only one. I can inky suggest others experiment with cleaning every connection to and from the ABS system. It took me less than 20 minutes and $5 in materials to fix it. Certainly worth a try before replacing the whole system.
 

jLB

Another one followed me home. Can we keep it?
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When Toyota took out the rear locker, they went w/two rear brake line. Which Lexus never had locker IIRC, which don't recall if they had 1 or 2 to the rear.

While they are somewhat related, I would expect that the change had more to do with adding the brake based VSC and ATRAC in 2000+ models, than the actual loss of an optional locker (LC) or standard LSD (LX). A visual inspection of my 99 LX would seem to indicate that it is the same as the 98-99 LC, with one line to the rear.
 
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While they are somewhat related, I would expect that the change had more to do with adding the brake based VSC and ATRAC in 2000+ models, than the actual loss of an optional locker (LC) or standard LSD (LX). A visual inspection of my 99 LX would seem to indicate that it is the same as the 98-99 LC, with one line to the rear.
I agree. Seem, I saw some promo info once, stating ATRAC won out over rear locker. Then the 200 series kick it up a notch in 2008 with crawl. Anther notch with turn assist in 2013-.

Thanks for looking at your 99LX and confirming "One rear brake line". Parts numbers for 98-99 LX or LC indicate the same!
 
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Fedex dropped off the delivery Saturday, it was the correct part number, reasonably well packed. It had shifted around a bit in the box, the bubble wrap they used to pack it wasn't quite up to the weight of the unit, and had quite a few pops. I checked it over for broken tabs or bent brackets and didn't see anything. Dropped it off with the night key drop at ToyPro in Knoxville yesterday, they quoted me $450 for labor including a complete brake fluid flush at all four wheels. I'll report back on the outcome, hopefully this fixes my goose problem.
 
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Fedex dropped off the delivery Saturday, it was the correct part number, reasonably well packed. It had shifted around a bit in the box, the bubble wrap they used to pack it wasn't quite up to the weight of the unit, and had quite a few pops. I checked it over for broken tabs or bent brackets and didn't see anything. Dropped it off with the night key drop at ToyPro in Knoxville yesterday, they quoted me $450 for labor including a complete brake fluid flush at all four wheels. I'll report back on the outcome, hopefully this fixes my goose problem.

Installed for $515 out the door including tax and fluid, and she is all done. Went to pick her ups yesterday, and all seems good. Shop seems to have done a nice job, no evidence of fluid spills under the hood or at the brake bleeders. They cleaned up after themselves, which is a detail many shops take shortcuts on.

Total repair was $515 plus $1481 for the part, total of $1996.
 

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