Gentlemen,
I am confronted by a problem with my brake master cylinder.
The Vehicle/The Facts = 1977, BJ40, from Honduras, tandem master cylinder, 1 1/8" bore, two top plastic reservoirs, side brake line entry points, bottom safety light switches, standard 4 bolt mount, with vacuum booster, NO PROPORTIONING VALVE, JUST TWO SEPARATE CIRCUITS FRONT/REAR. drum brakes in the front and rear (Note: The vehicle is NOT factory original and seems to have been assembled out of parts on hand.)
2. In looking for a brake master cylinder, the dual factory standard units for the U.S. seem to have a 7/8" bore (i.e. - Rock Auto rebuild kit - won't work because my cylinder has 1 1/8" bore) - so - I am looking for a new master cylinder. Specter has one, but is 1 1/4" bore, and I suspect that this one would give me less pedal travel and require more pressure. Consequently, the only similar bore would be from an FJ45 (truck version) from Canada - correct?
3. Because this old car is such a mongrel, I suspect that the correct factory master cylinder may have had a different bore diameter (i.e. - I found that the wheel cylinders were all mismatched with different bore diameters- problem now corrected with NAPA parts). So - would anyone know, with certainty, what bore diameter a master cylinder, for a BJ40 in Honduras would have had for the 1977 model year?
4. Because this old car is such a mongrel already, I am wondering if a 1 1/8" bore, American master cylinder could be adapted to work? The 4 bolt mount would have to be adapted to a two bolt mount, and the brake lines would have to be adapted for American flare nuts - but......... It might work, or it might open up Pandora's box. (Think "practicality" rather than "factory Toyota officiality")
Has anyone ever side-stepped Toyota's master cylinder with success, or is this idea a disasterous failure in the making?
I am confronted by a problem with my brake master cylinder.
The Vehicle/The Facts = 1977, BJ40, from Honduras, tandem master cylinder, 1 1/8" bore, two top plastic reservoirs, side brake line entry points, bottom safety light switches, standard 4 bolt mount, with vacuum booster, NO PROPORTIONING VALVE, JUST TWO SEPARATE CIRCUITS FRONT/REAR. drum brakes in the front and rear (Note: The vehicle is NOT factory original and seems to have been assembled out of parts on hand.)
2. In looking for a brake master cylinder, the dual factory standard units for the U.S. seem to have a 7/8" bore (i.e. - Rock Auto rebuild kit - won't work because my cylinder has 1 1/8" bore) - so - I am looking for a new master cylinder. Specter has one, but is 1 1/4" bore, and I suspect that this one would give me less pedal travel and require more pressure. Consequently, the only similar bore would be from an FJ45 (truck version) from Canada - correct?
3. Because this old car is such a mongrel, I suspect that the correct factory master cylinder may have had a different bore diameter (i.e. - I found that the wheel cylinders were all mismatched with different bore diameters- problem now corrected with NAPA parts). So - would anyone know, with certainty, what bore diameter a master cylinder, for a BJ40 in Honduras would have had for the 1977 model year?
4. Because this old car is such a mongrel already, I am wondering if a 1 1/8" bore, American master cylinder could be adapted to work? The 4 bolt mount would have to be adapted to a two bolt mount, and the brake lines would have to be adapted for American flare nuts - but......... It might work, or it might open up Pandora's box. (Think "practicality" rather than "factory Toyota officiality")
Has anyone ever side-stepped Toyota's master cylinder with success, or is this idea a disasterous failure in the making?