Brake master Assembly Removal Issue. 05 LX (1 Viewer)

[Sventvkg]

Hey guys, I feel like an idiot. I followed Timmy, the tool man’s video to the tea, and although it’s a little bit different for an 05 the general gist is the same. The problem came when I went to remove the bolts inside on the firewall. I have no access to the passenger side, upper or lower bolts because there’s a rubber hood of some sort around my steering column and there’s a weird clip, I can’t figure out any possible way to get this thing off. If anyone has any ideas, or if I can just cut it off to access the bolts, I would love to hear. Thanks here’s a pic.

 

[Sventvkg]

Hey guys, I feel like an idiot. I followed Timmy, the tool man’s video to the tea, and although it’s a little bit different for an 05 the general gist is the same. The problem came when I went to remove the bolts inside on the firewall. I have no access to the passenger side, upper or lower bolts because there’s a rubber hood of some sort around my steering column and there’s a weird clip, I can’t figure out any possible way to get this thing off. If anyone has any ideas, or if I can just cut it off to access the bolts, I would love to hear. Thanks here’s a pic.

View attachment 3221063

That clip is something I’ve never seen and can’t get it indone

 

[murphthelab]

I understand that boot appears on vehicles with VGRS, of which the '05 LX is one. I have an '05 LC, without the boot because no VGRS. I am not familiar with the boot's removal and access to the firewall bolts. I can say once you get to them, they are not hard to remove. Suggest doing some VGRS searches, and you might find boot removal info therein. Sorry I can not be of more help.

 

[Sventvkg]

I understand that boot appears on vehicles with VGRS, of which the '05 LX is one. I have an '05 LC, without the boot because no VGRS. I am not familiar with the boot's removal and access to the firewall bolts. I can say once you get to them, they are not hard to remove. Suggest doing some VGRS searches, and you might find boot removal info therein. Sorry I can not be of more help.

It looks like that boot is covering the VGRS. I need access behind it to be able to loosen the bolts to take the ABS pump unit out…

 

[medtro]

It looks like that boot is covering the VGRS. I need access behind it to be able to loosen the bolts to take the ABS pump unit out…

The nuts for the brake master is not behind that boot. You can see them from the left side of the brake pedal.

 

[Sventvkg]

The nuts for the brake master is not behind that boot. You can see them from the left side of the brake pedal.

2 are to the left of the brake pedal and two are to the right one I might be able to get two, but the other one on the bottom is directly behind that boot. Which itself seems to be covering the lower steering column assembly where the VGRS is located.

 

[medtro]

FSM doesn't say anything about the boot. It says to remove skid ECU and charcoal canister. I think it is the result of copy & paste from earlier years FSM.

 

[2001LC]

You do not need to remove any additional parts, with VGRS systems (03-07 LX470)
It's just a little more challenging, with VGRS actuator in the way.
Just use a long extension with universal and deep socket on the end. 1/4" socket set works best, but doable with 3/8".

BTW: Your title "abs booster", implies you're just replacing the "Booster Assembly". In most cases, it's best to replace the whole booster assemble along with brake master. Not only did Toyota/Lexus drop price of the whole assembly. But all too often the brake master seal and/or ABS init fails within a year, and you'll do the job again.

 

[Sventvkg]

You do not need to remove any additional parts, with VGRS systems (03-07 LX470)
It's just a little more challenging, with VGRS actuator in the way.
Just use a long extension with universal and deep socket on the end. 1/4" socket set works best, but doable with 3/8".

BTW: Your title "abs booster", implies you're just replacing the "Booster Assembly". In most cases, it's best to replace the whole booster assemble along with brake master. Not only did Toyota/Lexus drop price of the whole assembly. But all too often the brake master seal and/or ABS init fails within a year, and you'll do the job again.

Thanks, yes, I’m replacing the entire unit. I got a very nice remanufactured unit with all new components it looks like. Mine started leaking fluid so the seal must have gone..I’m sorry About the thread title but I’m getting different names for it everywhere.

I spent about 30 min trying to access the 2 obscured nuts behind the boot to no avail but will try again. I have the long extensions required once I can even locate the the bolts under the vgrs boot!

 

[2001LC]

Thanks, yes, I’m replacing the entire unit. I got a very nice remanufactured unit with all new components it looks like. Mine started leaking fluid so the seal must have gone..I’m sorry About the thread title but I’m getting different names for it everywhere.

I spent about 30 min trying to access the 2 obscured nuts behind the boot to no avail but will try again. I have the long extensions required once I can even locate the the bolts under the vgrs boot!

I would not use a re-manufactured brake master. There is no one to my knowledge, that can rebuild master or the ABS unit (black box on side of master). The best they can do is rebuild the booster motor, replace its brake control wire (not reusable), clean plastic reservoir tank (which can cause issues) and replace the master plunger. They can not replace a seal (o-ring) in forward end of master, which often fails on old master. Failure of this seal/o-ring is usually with in 2 years, of kicking pressure back up. Pressure goes up, with faster spinning motor (from rebuilding or just replacing the brake control wire) and or better pump and or better accumulator. I've seen these master rigged to seem okay, and dangerously so.

To be clear, in the cabin: It's not a bolt(s) under the boot. Just like the left side, its has 2 nuts on right side. Totals of 4 nuts and 1 clevis pin, releases the brake master. The only other nuts, are hanging CPU on left side. We remove those to hang CPU out of the way. All 4 of nuts on studs of master can be seen with a flash light, coming thorough firewall. Nothing else in cabins needs removing, not even dash knee plastic cover. To install, you'll be starting nuts in the blind (by feel)!

Make sure to use a good flare nut tool, to remove hard lines from master. I use flare nut socket (similar to crows-foot, but six sided with opening), to torque the flare nuts on to 10 ft-lbf (120 in.lbf). I first place a tiny dot of oil on pipe under flare and a dot on threads. I start all flare nuts by hand. I hand tighten each, most all the way in. WHY! Last thing I want is to cross thread a flare nut, which will damage the master. Also be careful pulling master and installing. So you do not damage flare at end of pipe (hard brake lines). You can use rubber caps, place on them. Also, I place a piece of cardboard over the area, with flare behind it. As I slip master back in.

Fun stuff.

The part that takes the most time, if flushing and bleeding. I do like to air bleed with tech stream, when replacing a master. But can be done without, by driving 35 MPH or more on slippery road (dirt or ice) and activating ABS repeatedly and re-bleeding afterwards.

 

[Sventvkg]

I would not use a re-manufactured brake master. There is no one to my knowledge, that can rebuild master or the ABS unit (black box on side of master). The best they can do is rebuild the booster motor, replace its brake control wire (not reusable), clean plastic reservoir tank (which can cause issues) and replace the master plunger. They can not replace a seal (o-ring) in forward end of master, which often fails on old master. Failure of this seal/o-ring is usually with in 2 years, of kicking pressure back up. Pressure goes up, with faster spinning motor (from rebuilding or just replacing the brake control wire) and or better pump and or better accumulator. I've seen these master rigged to seem okay, and dangerously so.

To be clear, in the cabin: It's not a bolt(s) under the boot. Just like the left side, its has 2 nuts on right side. Totals of 4 nuts and 1 clevis pin, releases the brake master. The only other nuts, are hanging CPU on left side. We remove those to hang CPU out of the way. All 4 of nuts on studs of master can be seen with a flash light, coming thorough firewall. Nothing else in cabins needs removing, not even dash knee plastic cover. To install, you'll be starting nuts in the blind (by feel)!

Make sure to use a good flare nut tool, to remove hard lines from master. I use flare nut socket (similar to crows-foot, but six sided with opening), to torque the flare nuts on to 10 ft-lbf (120 in.lbf). I first place a tiny dot of oil on pipe under flare and a dot on threads. I start all flare nuts by hand. I hand tighten each, most all the way in. WHY! Last thing I want is to cross thread a flare nut, which will damage the master. Also be careful pulling master and installing. So you do not damage flare at end of pipe (hard brake lines). You can use rubber caps, place on them. Also, I place a piece of cardboard over the area, with flare behind it. As I slip master back in.

Fun stuff.

The part that takes the most time, if flushing and bleeding. I do like to air bleed with tech stream, when replacing a master. But can be done without, by driving 35 MPH or more on slippery road (dirt or ice) and activating ABS repeatedly and re-bleeding afterwards.

Thanks for that Explanation. The video shows all of that and I completed all of those tasks except being able to free the two nuts underneath the VGRS boot. Maybe my hands are huge or I’m just not hitting it at the right angle, but I haven’t been able to get to them. I will continue to try. And as yet I don’t have techstream Operable because I haven’t on the windows computer since the 90s. I’m completely on Mac. I’m trying to locate a Windows laptop to install the software which I bought off eBay and see if I can get it to work. Fun times.

I really appreciate your input because obviously you’re a mechanic and know what you’re talking about. Here’s what I bought. I heard from some people that they had good luck with these.

 

[2001LC]

Key is; you need a universal (aka swivel) on end of long extension with deep socket.

Good luck with the reman master. I had one brought to me about 3 years ago. Which after inspecting, I refused to install it. It was a piece of junk. I had another brought to me, for a 200 series.Which we were doing a conversion to turn assist. It was used from a wreck (parts rig) that was fine. Since you're not paying labor. If fails, the dollar bit will not be to bad.

For years, targeted failure point(s) and repair brake masters for myself and others. But found most come back within 2 years. The long term cost then go up, with the short term savings. Biting the bullet with purchase of new is best. Dealership have it right, they'll only R&R with new master.

BTW: I use only Toyota brake fluid. Not even Toyota Dealership do that. I do so, in hopes it gives better protection to the seals. Why: Toyota had a recall, for non Toyota brake fluid used in masters of non 100 series 2005-07. They found it damage seals in master.