Replaced the pads and rotors on my 99 LC yesterday. They were the originals. I used Bembro rotors and OEM pads from Sumitomo (SEI) Brake Systems, INC.
The right side took us a 2-3 hours as my buddy and I had never worked on a 4WD before. The drivers side took about 90 minutes.
Some tips.
Start early and park where you have plenty of light. We found out there is little place to hang a drop light.
Spray all the bolts with liquid wrench prior to starting.
Get a brass hammer and punch to remove the cone washers when removing the flange from the hub. It will take some pretty good licks to knock them loose.
To remove the bolts that hold the rotor to the hub, we put 2 lug nuts back on the studs then wedged the jack handle between them to hold a backup while loosening the rotor bolts. They are pretty tight after 8 years and 118K.
After installing the pads on the passenger side after installing the new rotor, we found out it was easier to replace the pads in the calipers before removing the old rotor when we did the drivers side. That way we didn't have to worry about scarring or getting the new rotor dirty.
The best source I could find for step by step removal instructions with clear pictures of the process is the PDF file by StopTech. It is the Installation instructions for Toyota Land Cruiser and Lexus LX 470 for the Front Big Brake Upgrade.
Refer to Chiltons for torque values.
On another note, I had my local Toyota dealer replace my timing belt, serpentine belt and coolant a couple of days ago. The two area Toyota service managers both assured me the the 2UZ FE engine is a Tolerance engine and would suffer no damage should the belt break. However, the cost of being towed in if the belt broke in the back country of Big Bend National Park would probably be higher than the replacement service cost me. It also gives considerable peace of mind.
I'm now changing gear box fluids and will do transmission and transfer case the next available weekend.
I replaced the shocks with Bilstein HD's about a month ago. I feel the car is ready for another 100K now.
.
The right side took us a 2-3 hours as my buddy and I had never worked on a 4WD before. The drivers side took about 90 minutes.
Some tips.
Start early and park where you have plenty of light. We found out there is little place to hang a drop light.
Spray all the bolts with liquid wrench prior to starting.
Get a brass hammer and punch to remove the cone washers when removing the flange from the hub. It will take some pretty good licks to knock them loose.
To remove the bolts that hold the rotor to the hub, we put 2 lug nuts back on the studs then wedged the jack handle between them to hold a backup while loosening the rotor bolts. They are pretty tight after 8 years and 118K.
After installing the pads on the passenger side after installing the new rotor, we found out it was easier to replace the pads in the calipers before removing the old rotor when we did the drivers side. That way we didn't have to worry about scarring or getting the new rotor dirty.
The best source I could find for step by step removal instructions with clear pictures of the process is the PDF file by StopTech. It is the Installation instructions for Toyota Land Cruiser and Lexus LX 470 for the Front Big Brake Upgrade.
Refer to Chiltons for torque values.
On another note, I had my local Toyota dealer replace my timing belt, serpentine belt and coolant a couple of days ago. The two area Toyota service managers both assured me the the 2UZ FE engine is a Tolerance engine and would suffer no damage should the belt break. However, the cost of being towed in if the belt broke in the back country of Big Bend National Park would probably be higher than the replacement service cost me. It also gives considerable peace of mind.
I'm now changing gear box fluids and will do transmission and transfer case the next available weekend.
I replaced the shocks with Bilstein HD's about a month ago. I feel the car is ready for another 100K now.
.