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Brake Job & Pads..

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by - S.A. -, Nov 23, 2003.

  1. - S.A. -

    - S.A. -

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    Ok, so decided that i am going to (depeding on family duties) replace my own brake pads this upcoming holiday weekend on my 96 80-series. Are there any tips that you can give? Since this DOES incolve my BRAKES..and i DONT want to die...I want to make sure that i do it correctly. I looked at my haynes manual and it looks pretty straight forward...BUT, we all know that nothing is 'straight forward' on the LC :D.

    Also, i picked up a set of 80 series OEM pads from the local Toy dealer.

    I remember that some people are running 100 Series Pads on their 80-series LC's (Rogue?). Why do this? what is the advantage? Any special mods needed to brake pad to make fit?

    Should i just exchange my 80 series pads for 100 series pads and install them instead?

    ok..thats it.
    Joe M
     
  2. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Moderator

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    Joe,

    There is a lot of 100 series pad info here and in the SOR archives. A search will provide plenty of food for thought.

    A quick bit of info to save you some time: If you do not plan to turn or replace your rotors, forget 100 pads for the time being. 100 series pads have a larger contact area and will not "bed" properly to rotors that have a stock contact area worn in.

    D-
     
  3. landtank

    landtank SILVER Star

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    Replacing the pads is quite easy. You'll need a full set of allen keys to do it.

    On the rears you'll need to remove the caliper (2 allen bolts), compress the piston, swap out the pads. There are some spring slides that need to be cleaned and watch how they com off the old pads to get them back on correctly.

    On the front you'll remove a plate of sorts held in place by 2 allen screws. Once this is removed a retainer clip that holds the 2 pins in is romoved and the pins slide out to allow you to lift the pads out and replace them.

    As far as compressing the pistons, becarefull if you try and bar them against the rotors. Don't want to crack one of those on a weekend :whoops:.

    Also watch your fluid level when compressing the pistons, you don't need that stuff spilling out all over.
     
  4. - S.A. -

    - S.A. -

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    [glow=red,2,300]C-dan,[/glow]
    Thanks for the info..no turning rotors this time..just pads. So i will stick with the 80 oem pads i have.

    [glow=red,2,300]Rick[/glow]
    Nice! thanks for the tips ! The haynes manual i have says to apply "Anti Squeal Compound" - "disk brake quiet". I guess this is lubricant that i can get at any autozone or napa?

    Also,I am going to try one last time to do the diff also this weekend. Hopefully, i can get it done ..so that frees up more time for us to BS over Land Cruisers and :beer:

    talk to you soon.
    joe
     
  5. landtank

    landtank SILVER Star

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    Trying to talk the wife into a propane heater for the garage. I might be making some headway but then again the current is running strong against me. Still want to do the diff breather mod to my truck, excelent mod well within my budget :D.

    Have a safe trip.
     
  6. landtank

    landtank SILVER Star

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    I seemed to have given some bad info on the pad replacement. The front pads come out after removing the retainer spring and pins. The rears come out after removing the caliper which is help in place by hex head bolts. not allens. However there is a plate which is held in place by 2 allen bolts on the rear whic I've taken off to inspect the pad wear.

    Sorry about that.

    B, feel free to straighten my sh*t out in public.