Brake Job...Front or Both?

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May 9, 2003
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Hey Gang,

It is time to replace the pads on the front of my '01 as the "clicker" bar just started making racket.

Anyway, after reading many articles I think I am going to go with the OEM pads, but I am wondering about the rear brakes.

Should I go ahead and replace the pads on all 4 wheels at the same time, or should I wait untill the rears wear down?

From what I can tell, the rears still have a bit of life in them, but since I bought the vehicle used, I can't know for sure when the fronts or rears were last replaced.

Thanks,

-R
 
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I got my 01 used too and when one of my front rotors needed replacing, I went ahead and ordered a set of front and back including pads, all OEM from cruiserdan. I got everything replaced just so I would know where I stood with the brakes now, than I did when I bought it.
 
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Rears tend to wear out faster on the 100, so it is likely they have been replaced already. You will likely go through 2 replacements of the rears for each front one.
 
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Rears tend to wear out faster on the 100, so it is likely they have been replaced already. You will likely go through 2 replacements of the rears for each front one.

That's interesting, every vehicle I've owned, including an 80, the fronts wear faster due to the physics of braking and the weight of the engine on the front end.
 
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Rears tend to wear out faster on the 100, so it is likely they have been replaced already. You will likely go through 2 replacements of the rears for each front one.

I got 20k more miles out of my fronts compared to my rears. Rears were on the squeelers whereas the fronts had some meat left.
 
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I replaced my rears around 35-40K miles on both my LC and LX. About 70K plus on the front. Only vehicle I have owned that wears rears first. I suspect it has to do with the weight balance of the 100, the relative size of the pads, and possibly the action of VSC/TRAC.
 
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That's interesting, every vehicle I've owned, including an 80, the fronts wear faster due to the physics of braking and the weight of the engine on the front end.

I think this is for the '98-02. The '03+ introduced "electronic brake force distribution." I notice my front pads seem to wear faster than the rears. Does anyone else w/ a '03+ notice this?
 
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That's interesting, every vehicle I've owned, including an 80, the fronts wear faster due to the physics of braking and the weight of the engine on the front end.

Same here too! Fronts usually get worn down much faster than the rears. I hope the others are not driving backwards the whole time :)

serioiusly though thanks for the heads up on the rears I'll have to check them soon then. i just picked up my '05 with 63k miles and put on 5k. 1K miles just last weekend wheeling in 120F heat at Anza-Borrego desert. i luv my LC100(Sarah)!

-tony
 
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My fronts are at 5mm and rears 6mm. At what mm do you guys replace so you don't mess up the rotors? Lexus dealership wants $275 per axle to do the job, which includes turning the rotors and conditioning the calipers and new pads. Anyone just slap on new pads all around and call it good? Brake fluid was replaced 10K miles ago. Figure I should have 5-10K left until fronts and rears are down to 3mm.
 
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Just buy OEM Lexus or (probably cheaper) OEM Toyota pads and throw them on, don't turn the rotors unless they are very very uneven. I have just changed my rotors on my Ford Falcon at 230000km (145000 miles). I have fitted new pads throught it's life without turning the rotors, the reason I changed the rotors was they were worn below the specified thickness. However they were smooth. My thoughts
 
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Just buy OEM Lexus or (probably cheaper) OEM Toyota pads and throw them on, don't turn the rotors unless they are very very uneven. I have just changed my rotors on my Ford Falcon at 230000km (145000 miles). I have fitted new pads throught it's life without turning the rotors, the reason I changed the rotors was they were worn below the specified thickness. However they were smooth. My thoughts

Thats what I thought. Thanks for confirming
 

spressomon

glutton
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My fronts are at 5mm and rears 6mm. At what mm do you guys replace so you don't mess up the rotors? Lexus dealership wants $275 per axle to do the job, which includes turning the rotors and conditioning the calipers and new pads. Anyone just slap on new pads all around and call it good? Brake fluid was replaced 10K miles ago. Figure I should have 5-10K left until fronts and rears are down to 3mm.


I am more conservative when it comes to brake pads (especially fronts) and tires. I don't like to let the pads get too thin as it results in less heat sink effect forcing more heat back to the rotor. Thicker pad material = better heat dispersion IMO.

IMO the rotors are undersized for the size and weight of a 100 anyway. Add bumpers, winch, sliders, drawers, recovery gear, larger tires and it all increases the workload for the brakes. Probably stuff you already know and realize.

And as 100TD stated...if it ain't broke don't fix it. In other words if the rotors are true and not worn below minimum thickness just install new pads and take your time bedding them in before doing any hard panic type stops.
 

hoser

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I don't like to let the pads get too thin as it results in less heat sink effect forcing more heat back to the rotor. Thicker pad material = better heat dispersion IMO.
It is my understanding the full thickness pad reduces heat transfer from the origin of the heat (disc/pad surface) to the brake fluid and hence reduces brake fluid temperature. The shim found between the pad and piston also plays this role.

To dissipate more heat from a rotor, my guess is an alloy wheel would do a better job than a steel wheel. I have no idea if the difference would be significant.
 
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I am more conservative when it comes to brake pads (especially fronts) and tires. I don't like to let the pads get too thin as it results in less heat sink effect forcing more heat back to the rotor. Thicker pad material = better heat dispersion IMO.

IMO the rotors are undersized for the size and weight of a 100 anyway. Add bumpers, winch, sliders, drawers, recovery gear, larger tires and it all increases the workload for the brakes. Probably stuff you already know and realize.

And as 100TD stated...if it ain't broke don't fix it. In other words if the rotors are true and not worn below minimum thickness just install new pads and take your time bedding them in before doing any hard panic type stops.

At what MM thickness do you change the pads?
 

spressomon

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At what MM thickness do you change the pads?


Nothing scientific to support my decision but I replace at 1/3 remaining. But I am more conservative regarding this due to: 35", weight of my rig, living/driving in the mountains and the trailer I consistently tow. For the fronts, with my ART and Porterfield set up, it translates to around 55-60K! I'm good with that all things considered.

FYI: The rears got replaced at around 30K.
 
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Nothing scientific to support my decision but I replace at 1/3 remaining. But I am more conservative regarding this due to: 35", weight of my rig, living/driving in the mountains and the trailer I consistently tow. For the fronts, with my ART and Porterfield set up, it translates to around 55-60K! I'm good with that all things considered.

FYI: The rears got replaced at around 30K.

So you are replacing at around 4mm front and rear. Mines a 2004 so it get about the same wear front and rear. I plan on changing at around 3 mm which should be 50K miles, but I don't know how previous owner braked (it was a women so I image hard). I am easy on brakes but will be going to 275/65/18's at around 50-55K miles which will be a little harder on the brakes. Thanks for the info.
 

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