My master cylinder is shot, and I think it's leaking fluid into the booster. I'll know once I actually pull the master off, but if that is the case, would that render my booster kaput also or is it still serviceable?
Brake fluid in booster - ruined? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Spook50
- Start date
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7 years ago, mine did the same thing. Brake master blew and filled the power booster. Cleaned it out with 99% alcohol and it's worked fine to this day... So give it a try, worked for me!
I had this happen with my clutch. I just drained the fluid out and it has worked fine ever since.
Drain and go. Brake fluid is good for most rubber parts, especially brake parts, and it does not harm metal.
just an FYI, I replaced the booster on my 62 with one for a 90 4runner- had to flip the booster and adjust the push rod length, but perfect fix for the right price...you'll prolly be fine with your booster, but if it goes, there are options...my 55 series also runs a repurposed 4runner booster...
^^^ great advice too.
- Thread starter
- #7
I'm definitely open to a 4Runner booster. I've looked at the '95 era boosters while scoping it out and I think there are a few local to me in wrecking yards. Anyone know if they need the push rod modified as well?
Or @LAMBCRUSHER did you mean adjust the clevis on the push rod rather than actually cutting it?
Or @LAMBCRUSHER did you mean adjust the clevis on the push rod rather than actually cutting it?
naw the clevis rod gets shaved about 1/4" to 3/8"- totally forgot about that; the big deal is the push rod betwixt the booster and master MUST be adjusted- they're all set differently and have to be calibrated for the master cylinders they're mated to...
if you don't adjust the push rod, you might not get any braking, or you'll get way too much...
- Thread starter
- #10
Huh, I did not realize that. Then again I've never swapped out my booster before either. Almost got 30 years of service! Though it should technically still be good.
I'd say, find your 4runner booster- if it's a steal, buy it and shelf it. if it's just a replacement part that isn't going to sell out, wait till your booster goes bad. when it does, you'll need to plug the vacuum source to the booster so the truck will run home and use you legs to stop manually. it was hard to stop, but keep an eye out a few seconds up front and you'll get it home to do the swap just fine. the big trick is plugging that gaping vacuum leak should the diaphragm die on you...
Spook, look up the pushrod adjustment in the FSM, important step to do correctly. I made my own SST for the measurement.
I've done the 4Runner booster replacement...did not have to cut or shave the pedal attachment....lambcrusher, what did you mean by this?
The 4Runner unit does go on upside down...you'll need a good length of new booster hose, orielly by me had good booster specific hose on the shelf.
Also, keep in mind, when you release the brake pedal it "opens" the brake light switch....your brake lights will be on the WHOLE TIME it is disconnected. Might just disconnect the battery while working on it.
I've done the 4Runner booster replacement...did not have to cut or shave the pedal attachment....lambcrusher, what did you mean by this?
The 4Runner unit does go on upside down...you'll need a good length of new booster hose, orielly by me had good booster specific hose on the shelf.
Also, keep in mind, when you release the brake pedal it "opens" the brake light switch....your brake lights will be on the WHOLE TIME it is disconnected. Might just disconnect the battery while working on it.
I mean I had to shave off 1/4 or so of an inch on both the 55 and the 62 series...I tried them both first without the cut, then decided to gain the clearance. The 2 swaps were done about 16 months apart- I did not have a protocol for it yet., they might have done fine with the clevis bottomed out on the pedal rod, but they would have had to have been bottomed out, and like I said, I thought I'd rather have the clearance, Clarence. YMMV; it's only steel- meh
unplug the switch- no groundy...
I don't think this adjustment affects the pushrod to master cylinder distance. (If this is wrong someone correct me). The clevis/pedal rod adjustment may need to be done after a brake booster swap for proper contact with the brake light switch.
Correct.
