Brake Failure on 200 series / LX570.

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KRR

Joined
Dec 9, 2022
Threads
5
Messages
37
Location
Indonesia
Hello all,

Want to ask the members here regarding brake failure if it is a common issue on the 200 series? Over the past few days I had two buddies both with LX570 (2008 with 95k miles & 2012 with 80k miles) had to replace their Brake Booster Assy PN 4705060170, due to fault code C1256, Low Pressure Accumulator.

It happened while driving, VSC light came on and loss of braking pressure. Restarted the car and it went back to normal again. Have any of you experienced something similar? Should I considergetting mine replaced as preventive maintenance?

Thanks guys..
 
I’ve been on this forum almost daily since early 2018 and can remember posts about 1 or maybe 2..

It may not have been the root issue but the accumulator is available separately and is much cheaper than the whole booster.
 
Hello all,

Want to ask the members here regarding brake failure if it is a common issue on the 200 series? Over the past few days I had two buddies both with LX570 (2008 with 95k miles & 2012 with 80k miles) had to replace their Brake Booster Assy PN 4705060170, due to fault code C1256, Low Pressure Accumulator.

It happened while driving, VSC light came on and loss of braking pressure. Restarted the car and it went back to normal again. Have any of you experienced something similar? Should I considergetting mine replaced as preventive maintenance?

Thanks guys..
I wonder if there is something unique to the location (Indonesia) for that failure? I did a search on Mud for that DTC and your post was the only one that came up. Extremely rare failure!
 
I heard of the failure in 100 series only as well, but always thought that it was because people seldom flush brake fluid and due to condensation water would collect at the bottom causing rust related issues and pump failures.

I would flush mine out every 3-5 years and never had any issues.
 
I heard of the failure in 100 series only as well, but always thought that it was because people seldom flush brake fluid and due to condensation water would collect at the bottom causing rust related issues and pump failures.

I would flush mine out every 3-5 years and never had any issues.
Most likely right. A big reason why i have always changed brake fluid every 100k. Steering fluid as well.
 
I’ve been on this forum almost daily since early 2018 and can remember posts about 1 or maybe 2..

It may not have been the root issue but the accumulator is available separately and is much cheaper than the whole booster.
Right, i did search around and didn't find post regarding this issue on the 200/201. However for long term use and as preventive maintenance its better to change the whole assembly, i guess.

I have heard of this on the 100 series but, after 450k miles, never encountered it or talk to anyone else who has. Seems like a 1 in 50,000 chance of occurrance.
Yes, over here its a common failure on all versions of the 100 series (Australian, Japanese (Land Cruiser Cygnus) and the LX470) as early as 70k miles. However, have not heard (if any) of the 200 series failure as many as the 100.

I wonder if there is something unique to the location (Indonesia) for that failure? I did a search on Mud for that DTC and your post was the only one that came up. Extremely rare failure!
I believe its because of the humidity and plenty of stop and go traffic / traffic jams?

I heard of the failure in 100 series only as well, but always thought that it was because people seldom flush brake fluid and due to condensation water would collect at the bottom causing rust related issues and pump failures.

I would flush mine out every 3-5 years and never had any issues.
Its humid over here and condensation is easier to occur. I believe you are right. Plenty of 100 series having this issue.

Most likely right. A big reason why i have always changed brake fluid every 100k. Steering fluid as well.
I think its best to change 100k or every two years, depending which comes first.


Thanks a lot for all the replies and input... I do a lot of road trips both for work and leisure family. That is why i'm considering getting it replaced as preventive maintenance and for safety issues as well. However, it is quite expensive though and few workshops told me not to change it just yet as every thing seems to be in working order.

Maybe both of my friends failures are rare issues that came up because of bad maintenance from previous owners? FYI, one of them is using DOT 5.1 and the other has front and rear BBK. Maybe using other than DOT 3 could be another cause?
 
There is no reason to run any brake fluid other than quality dot 3 in our rigs.

In fact, the trade off for the higher temperature rating is dot 4 absorbs humidity more quickly than 3.
 
Last edited:
There is no reason to run any brake fluid other than quality dot 3 fluid in our rigs.

In fact, the trade off for the higher temperature rating is dot 4 absorbs humidity more quickly than 3.
That is correct. That's what I heard as well..
 
There is no reason to run any brake fluid other than quality dot 3 fluid in our rigs.

In fact, the trade off for the higher temperature rating is dot 4 absorbs humidity more quickly than 3.

I wasnt going to but there was evidence of boiling on 2 of my lines.
With the new brakes and how i drive, i said f it.

Ill be monitoring the fluid though, well see how it is after a year.
If i were in Houston though, I may have not switched.
 
I heard of the failure in 100 series only as well, but always thought that it was because people seldom flush brake fluid and due to condensation water would collect at the bottom causing rust related issues and pump failures.

I would flush mine out every 3-5 years and never had any issues.
the issue on the 100 was not PM related - it was bad design in the early 100's which they improved in the 2005+ refresh to an extent. (Plunger design and boost circuit).

I've not heard of much of it on the 200, but as a victim of the 100 Accumulator failure, hope it doesn't make a return appearance on my 200!
 
Hello all,

Want to ask the members here regarding brake failure if it is a common issue on the 200 series? Over the past few days I had two buddies both with LX570 (2008 with 95k miles & 2012 with 80k miles) had to replace their Brake Booster Assy PN 4705060170, due to fault code C1256, Low Pressure Accumulator.

It happened while driving, VSC light came on and loss of braking pressure. Restarted the car and it went back to normal again. Have any of you experienced something similar? Should I considergetting mine replaced as preventive maintenance?

Thanks guys..
April 2025. I have exactly these codes: C1201 C1252 C1256

Landcruiser V8 VX 2011. Engine/Motor No. / No. Enjin/Motor 1UR022XXXX
Chassis No. / No. Casis URJ202-400XXXX
C.C./ Watt Keupayaan Enjin 4663.00 CC

20250425 Fam3.jpeg
 
Has the brake system been flushed ever?
 
Has the brake system been flushed ever?
Yes - Owned the LC200 for 14 months. Changed the fluids in the brakes. Still seemed a little spongy but workable for last 14 months. Now for first time scary warning lights stared up. Happy owner. Because petrol is exceptionally cheap here in Malaysia.
 
Jumping in here cause just yesterday I was driving back to my house after doing some shooting two hours west of Denver in the mountains. I was noticing an unusual and distinct hissing sound when I stepped on the brakes. Way louder than the usual psshhhh sound the pedal makes. I was in an area where I was about an hour from any cell service and everything was still working so I kept rolling. 10 minutes later I get the VSC warning light, and an ABS light. Everything still working fine, just the hiss. Sun was setting so I doubt I could have stopped and successfully flagged someone down or knocked on a door to use a landline to call a tow. Another 5 minutes later I’m coming down a hill and I hit the bakes and hear an audible pop or similar noise, don’t remember exactly what it sounded like but there was a distinct noise. Instantly I’m down to about 20% of usual braking capacity and there’s a constant alarm like you get if you open the driver’s door without the truck being in park.

Would have been extremely dangerous if I was braking hard on the interstate or coming up to a light. Luckily, I had already been driving very cautiously given something was up, and I was in the middle of nowhere with no other vehicles around. I keep the truck in shiftable mode at all times so I quickly dropped gears and pumped the brakes and kept her under control coming down the steep dirt road I was on. It was a long and slow drive home. By the time I had made it back to service I had already braved 45 minutes of steep winding roads. So the last 10 minutes home were a breeze compared to that, I just stayed on back roads and did 35mph max rather than wait 5 hours for a tow.

I’ve had the truck since 2020 and 156K. The brake fluid was flushed twice in the time since then and I’m at 234K now. The LX is my backup vehicle now so I don’t drive it everyday. I had noticed the last 2 drives prior to my failure a scraping noise coming from the rear drivers side wheel area. Surface level inspection lead me to believe it had to do with the pads and rotor. There were some obvious grooves being carved into the rotor and I had replacement parts on hand, but I hadn’t had time to address it, I wasn’t super worried about it. I had pulled the wheel and inspected the pads probably 5 months prior so I knew the pads were still good and figured it was just some debris caught somewhere. Now I’m wondering if it was the wheel bearing and if it played a roll in the failure. The brake fluid reservoir is completely empty and it’s clear I lost it all out the rear left. The lines appear fine and I’m in a dry climate, I keep fluid film on everything in the winter and wash the undercarriage regularly so minimal corrosion anywhere. Looking from the inside of the truck I can see that the piston is out unusually far against the inside pad. At least when compared with the passenger side rear. Photo attached.

Let me know what you guys think about where I should start with this one. I haven’t had time to hook up techstream and my ultragauge isn’t registering the codes thrown.

As a side note I think I’ve experienced most of the common (and several less common) failures these trucks have. I’ve had the amp fan buzz under the drivers seat, transmission solenoid failure leading to a new tranny due to covid supply chain issues and the need of my truck right away, AHC pump failure, valley plate leak, starter failure literally 800 miles from home and 300 miles from the nearest dealer, and some kind of AFS system failure which I still haven’t had a chance to deal with. One time I was driving right through downtown Denver and my inner tire rod literally threaded itself out of the steering rack, as it fell out it stripped the threads on the rack. So I’ve also done a steering rack.

I’ve really put a ton of time into maintenance but I might just have a cursed LX. The inner tie rod and brake system failures were both while driving and easily could have gotten me or other people killed under worse circumstances. Were it not paid off and had I not just put dissent armor on last year I might consider upgrading to a post-facelift LX. Some radar-assisted cruise control and AEB would be nice.

IMG_8756.jpeg
 
Jumping in here cause just yesterday I was driving back to my house after doing some shooting two hours west of Denver in the mountains. I was noticing an unusual and distinct hissing sound when I stepped on the brakes. Way louder than the usual psshhhh sound the pedal makes. I was in an area where I was about an hour from any cell service and everything was still working so I kept rolling. 10 minutes later I get the VSC warning light, and an ABS light. Everything still working fine, just the hiss. Sun was setting so I doubt I could have stopped and successfully flagged someone down or knocked on a door to use a landline to call a tow. Another 5 minutes later I’m coming down a hill and I hit the bakes and hear an audible pop or similar noise, don’t remember exactly what it sounded like but there was a distinct noise. Instantly I’m down to about 20% of usual braking capacity and there’s a constant alarm like you get if you open the driver’s door without the truck being in park.

Would have been extremely dangerous if I was braking hard on the interstate or coming up to a light. Luckily, I had already been driving very cautiously given something was up, and I was in the middle of nowhere with no other vehicles around. I keep the truck in shiftable mode at all times so I quickly dropped gears and pumped the brakes and kept her under control coming down the steep dirt road I was on. It was a long and slow drive home. By the time I had made it back to service I had already braved 45 minutes of steep winding roads. So the last 10 minutes home were a breeze compared to that, I just stayed on back roads and did 35mph max rather than wait 5 hours for a tow.

I’ve had the truck since 2020 and 156K. The brake fluid was flushed twice in the time since then and I’m at 234K now. The LX is my backup vehicle now so I don’t drive it everyday. I had noticed the last 2 drives prior to my failure a scraping noise coming from the rear drivers side wheel area. Surface level inspection lead me to believe it had to do with the pads and rotor. There were some obvious grooves being carved into the rotor and I had replacement parts on hand, but I hadn’t had time to address it, I wasn’t super worried about it. I had pulled the wheel and inspected the pads probably 5 months prior so I knew the pads were still good and figured it was just some debris caught somewhere. Now I’m wondering if it was the wheel bearing and if it played a roll in the failure. The brake fluid reservoir is completely empty and it’s clear I lost it all out the rear left. The lines appear fine and I’m in a dry climate, I keep fluid film on everything in the winter and wash the undercarriage regularly so minimal corrosion anywhere. Looking from the inside of the truck I can see that the piston is out unusually far against the inside pad. At least when compared with the passenger side rear. Photo attached.

Let me know what you guys think about where I should start with this one. I haven’t had time to hook up techstream and my ultragauge isn’t registering the codes thrown.

As a side note I think I’ve experienced most of the common (and several less common) failures these trucks have. I’ve had the amp fan buzz under the drivers seat, transmission solenoid failure leading to a new tranny due to covid supply chain issues and the need of my truck right away, AHC pump failure, valley plate leak, starter failure literally 800 miles from home and 300 miles from the nearest dealer, and some kind of AFS system failure which I still haven’t had a chance to deal with. One time I was driving right through downtown Denver and my inner tire rod literally threaded itself out of the steering rack, as it fell out it stripped the threads on the rack. So I’ve also done a steering rack.

I’ve really put a ton of time into maintenance but I might just have a cursed LX. The inner tie rod and brake system failures were both while driving and easily could have gotten me or other people killed under worse circumstances. Were it not paid off and had I not just put dissent armor on last year I might consider upgrading to a post-facelift LX. Some radar-assisted cruise control and AEB would be nice.

View attachment 3899282

Good instincts keeping it under control while having a brake issue. Most people would have panicked. And I hear you on having all possible weak spot issues on these rigs. The valley plate leak is the only one I have left to check off yet.


So my truck had a failed rear bearing and it looked like yours, wet with gear oil. If this completely fails it can take out your rear abs sensor and cause a vsc and abs alarm. If I remember correctly @grinchy had same failure mode.

What that doesn’t account for is losing brake fluid.

If you are able you need to pull the caliper off and rotor and see what’s going on. You can unbolt the hub but you won’t get much further without pulling the axle shafts.
 
Good instincts keeping it under control while having a brake issue. Most people would have panicked. And I hear you on having all possible weak spot issues on these rigs. The valley plate leak is the only one I have left to check off yet.

Thanks, when I have some time in the next week or so I’ll take it apart and report back.
 
You can also pull the ABS sensor and look for evidence of contact between the tip and the inner axle hub seal. As the bearing wears out it allows a small amount of play in the axle which can lead to this contact.
 

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