Brake Failure & ABS/Brake light on dash with alarm? (1 Viewer)

[BigBlue84]

This may help further validate:

Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.

First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...

forum.ih8mud.com

Most excellent write up, one additional item I had not mentioned is the screeching when pressing the petal. Your write up confirms all diagnostics. Only question that seems to be answered Toyota break fluid. Are there any other manufacturer’s that can be recommended? Or is Toyota the standard. Looking at maybe a dot 4?

 

[2001LC]

Most excellent write up, one additional item I had not mentioned is the screeching when pressing the petal. Your write up confirms all diagnostics. Only question that seems to be answered Toyota break fluid. Are there any other manufacturer’s that can be recommended? Or is Toyota the standard. Looking at maybe a dot 4?

I use only Toyota brake fluid. Not even Toyota/Lexus shop use it, they use bulk. BWT: DOT III is spec.

Toyota had a recall on brake master 05-07 (not 100 series). TSB stated it was due to use of non Toyota brake fluid. Seems Dealership shops have forgotten this.

Toyota DOT 3 Brake Fluid Composition ?

Does anybody know the: Composition & Information on Ingredients of Toyota brake fluids that was factory installed in 2001 or any year as well as what is on the Dealers shelf today? The FSM & Owners Manual recommends industry standard: SAE J1703 or FMVSS No 116 DOT 3. Toyota states in a TSB...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[BigBlue84]

Toyota fluid it is then, one question I can’t seem to find the answer too. What is the total fluid amount need for a flush of all lines and fill From empty? IE how many 12oz bottles should I have on hand?

 

[2001LC]

You can fill with 5, but I like 7 Toyota bottles on-hand. As I do extra flushing and bleeding, so usually use 6 plus. (Do not save unused portion of open bottles).

BTW: I start a brake master R&R. By flushing reservoir to the bottom. Simply, by hold brake pedal down with IG key ON then open a rear bleeder. Once I've drain (~quart) the reservoir. I disconnect negative battery cable.

Tip: Use 10 flare wrench for breaking loose hard lines flare nuts. I torque to 10ft-lbf with a with flare crowfoot socket. Must be flare nut wrench (not just crowfoot) or risk damaging the flares nut.

A 10mm socket with 3/8" breaker bar is help, to break loose bleeder. Then a 10mm flare wrench.

I've also a open end ratcheting flare nut wrench, to speed things up.

I always blow-out bleeders with brake clear using the straw, HP air, then DW-40 and cap as a last step.

Place rags under master to catch any brake fluid. Rinse any spillage with water ASAP, as it will remove the paint from the fender skit and frame if left on.

 

[BigBlue84]

Thank you for the tip, any others are welcome.

 

[BigBlue84]

Master replaced and breaks back in working order! Took about 45 mins and the hardest part was getting that one nut on the upper left in the cabin off and the pin back on the push rod. Another 45 for bleeding, I took my time one person bleeding, used a foxwell NT630 plus abs and srs for the front line bleed.

 

[BigBlue84]

In this process I was shipped a used part that was to be rebuilt. It was not rebuild and was missing a bracket. I have no need for it and want to offer it up for sale as is used. anyone looking ? 300.00 usd you pay shipping.