Brake Cylinders - Rebuild? Replace? (OEM or AM?) (1 Viewer)

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Arlington VA
I'm restoring a 71' FJ40 that had been sitting for 2-3years and neglected for 6-8years.

The majority of the brake cylinders don't move when the brakes are pumped; I'm going to bleed the lines but i doubt that'll fix all of them.... what are my options?

Rebuild?

Buy New? CCOT has kits but they stated that each of the 8 cylinders Front/Rear/Left/Right/forward/back are different? is that true?

I have two BGM cylinders from the PO; how can i tell where they belong?
 
Go new OEM. I'd be willing to bet the installed wheel cylinders are rusted and pitted out and therefore beyond repair.
 
bump; any rebuild advocates? how can i tell if its worth rebuilding or not?
 
I have a set of rear cylinders I just cleaned and polished. You only need to get a new cup kit and put back together and as good as new. Original cylinders. Paid $30 to the inside honed. off 1969 FJ40. 9mm.
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If your wheel cylinders aren't moving when pumped then the pistons are probably rusted into the bores like my '78 was. The bores were pitted beyond repair and replacement in that case is the only option. I've heard that you can find OEM cylinders but they are pretty spendy. I got my non-OEM ones through Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters, good price and quality. The cylinders are all specific to each position depending on which side the bleeder port is and the direction of thread on the adjuster. It gets confusing fast, study the FSM to figure out which one goes where.
 
I honed my '67 cylinders with light shadowing, and bought rebuild kits. They are good as new. Most people will tell you to rebuild your OEM.
 
Virtually all used wheel cylinders are rusted and pitted, but that doesn't mean that they can't be successfully rebuilt. It depends on where the rust and pitting is. Unlike disc brake calipers, the wheel cylinder pistons fully retract. This prevents the sealing surface from rusting. If they are not rusted in the sealing surface or excessively worn, they can be rebuilt. I have rebuilt thousands of wheel cylinders back in the 70s when I was working in a high volume shop and they didn't leak or fail. If you rebuild them without removing them, it is faster than replacing them, which is why we routinely did it.
 
The FSM has the specs on the cylinders and pistons. Hone out the cylinders then measure them and the pistons. You can mix and match to get a set that is within spec. If they are within specs, a new cup ki,t and your good to go.

My web site has a section on cylinder rebuilding and also has the specs... Good luck!
 
I have a leaking rear brake cylinder so it's time to go through the rear brakes. I may attempt to rebuild the cylinders but, if I just wanted to purchase new ones, where should I get them? Who has the best quality parts? CCOT, SOR, MAF, NAPA, CarQuest, O'Reilly? I noticed a couple fo the Rear Forward cylinders can still be found OE. Any suggestions who carries the best brakes shoes? Thanks.
 
i liked the drum brakes ...

and after MASSIVE rebuild efforts, to include supper heating to get things loose, very long breaker bar torque,

I still do. rebuild them yourself, get to know your drum brakes, let them be your friend.

they do not want friends. but love em anyway.

once you get them apart, use the best lubricant you can afford to keep them moving freely. they love free movement.
 
Okay. I've removed the leaking cylinder and will try to rebuild it. Thanks again to Coolerman for writing up the procedure on his website.

Who has the best rebuild kit? What about shoes?
 
I recommend getting your rebuild parts from kurt at Cruiser Outfitters. He will help figure out just what you need if your not sure. The parts are good quality and priced cheap.
 

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