Brake Booster Replacement?

Joined
May 14, 2004
Messages
331
Location
The Great State of Texas
Well the brake pedal has been sinking for some time now. It has finally quit boosting any assist. I can still lock up the tires (31's), but it's hard to do that.

I searched the 60 forum as much as I can and I also check the FAQ to find any tidbits there, but I still have a few questions.

In my options to get another New-To-Me booster, I'm trying to find out how wide my options are.

It looks like a booster form a 60 will work on a 62.

Can a brake booster from an FJ80 work on an FJ62?

Has anyone rebuilt their booster? How hard? How much?

Would there be any advantage to changing to some other booster to get more stoping power (if possible)?

Thanks in advance for any help.
 
Joined
May 14, 2004
Messages
331
Location
The Great State of Texas
(O.T.) That was fast!
When I highlighted three of the above lines about Prior Remanufacturing and then did a 'Search Goole for ...' (FireFox option), this thread was the third link on Google's search results.
 
Joined
Aug 12, 2008
Messages
769
Location
Camano Island, WA
I use these folks for rebuilding...........
Prior Remanufacturing
Mine is rusted pretty well. Do you guys address that issue?:D

Also i had read about the the 80 series booster working as well, but have never actually talked to anyone who has done it and what is involved. I can guess you might need the 80 series master cylinder as well.

Sorry no answer, i just have your exact same question!
 
Joined
Mar 29, 2006
Messages
1,134
Location
AZ
I use these folks for rebuilding...........
Prior Remanufacturing
972-494-4254
Garland Tx
ask for Mel
ext#749
What all goes into remanu process of the booster?

I've also heard but never seen folks put sometype inline filter on the vacuum line to the booster. Supposedly the air that goes to the booster could be oily/dirty and over "time" damage the interals of the booster. Does that hold any truth?
 
Joined
May 14, 2004
Messages
331
Location
The Great State of Texas
Big_TX,
I have been watching the fluid level in the reservoir and it has not changed any in 6 months. If this thing were leaking as much as this pedal is sinking, I would have lost my brakes about 4 months ago. I have mot mess anywhere and my brake fluid has been steady.
 
Joined
Sep 12, 2008
Messages
43
If you have no loss of fluid a low pedal can be one of three things, fluid leaking past the piston cup internally in the master cylinder, air in the system or the rear brake shoes are out of adjustment (faulty adjuster or badly worn shoes)

I would pop the rear drums off and make sure everything is functioning correctly there and in good order first (because it is free), then i would bleed the system, if the problem was still there i would overhaul the master cylynder (20 bucks for a couple of rubber cups)

Brake boosters are quite expensive to buy or overhaul it would be a shame to spend the money only to still have the problem.

Remember to check under your wheel cylinder rubbers for leaks.
 

BG_TX

SILVER Star
 
Joined
Apr 15, 2007
Messages
884
Location
Tejas
I have been watching the fluid level in the reservoir and it has not changed any in 6 months.
I drove my Accord for 3 years with a sinking brake pedal (I know, major safety issue - I am a bad citizen)... the fluid in the reservoir stayed steady the entire time. Eventually the 'ABS' light came on causing me to fail inspection, I replaced the master cylinder and all symptoms were resolved.

I agree with Shane, might be good to pursue the cheap stuff if not already done and potentially save yourself some time/money...

I realized none of my comments relate to the thread topic (booster replacement), sorry about the hijack.
 
Joined
Sep 6, 2002
Messages
3,794
If you have no loss of fluid a low pedal can be one of three things, fluid leaking past the piston cup internally in the master cylinder, air in the system or the rear brake shoes are out of adjustment (faulty adjuster or badly worn shoes)

I would pop the rear drums off and make sure everything is functioning correctly there and in good order first (because it is free), then i would bleed the system, if the problem was still there i would overhaul the master cylynder (20 bucks for a couple of rubber cups)

Brake boosters are quite expensive to buy or overhaul it would be a shame to spend the money only to still have the problem.

Remember to check under your wheel cylinder rubbers for leaks.
That is absolutely correct advice. The pedal sinking is NOT the booster. If the booster had failed, you would have an extremely hard pedal and you would have to stomp on the pedal like an elephant to get braking effect. No way you could lock up your tires with a dead booster.
cheers,
J
 

Mace

rock scientist..
Staff member
s-Moderator
 
 
 
Joined
Feb 17, 2002
Messages
21,450
Location
Las Vegas
yeppers.. Check the master first, AND check rockauto for a new master. When the booster fails you have a rock hard pedal and commonly a huge vac leak that makes the car run poorly. It can also be a reason for the engine to die when braking to a stop at a stoplight...

BTW, IIRC beaufort found a cheap booster replacement place. I cannot remember it right now. Perhaps he will speak up with the info..
 

BG_TX

SILVER Star
 
Joined
Apr 15, 2007
Messages
884
Location
Tejas
Crazy right... even worse, CCOT lists them for nearly $300.00.:eek:

Still cheaper than a replacement booster though... ;)
 
Joined
May 14, 2004
Messages
331
Location
The Great State of Texas
Thanks for all the comments.
Sorry for not getting back sooner. I was out all weekend helping to run a Scouting program.

I agree wholeheartedly to start w/ the cheaper stuff before the booster.
The brake are not soft or spongy. The pedal just begins to sink slowly to the flow after I have come to a stop. A quick pump will bring the pedal back up to the regular height but start sinking again.
The pedal is certainly not hard to push nor hard to stop the truck, so I guess the booster is still working. :bounce:
Again, I have no leaks anywhere in the system. The soft lines were replace 2 years ago w/ extended braided SS lines. No wet spots or drips from the connection points. No fluid loss either.
I was not expecting that the master could be bad so soon, since I was not losing any fluid and that I replace it about 2-3 years ago. That's what I get for not getting OEM.

Thanks again for all the comments. I will start on the MC tomorrow to see what I can find.
 

GLTHFJ60

Rum Runnin'
SILVER Star
 
Joined
Apr 18, 2005
Messages
24,088
Location
Durham, NC
The master cylinder can leak internally by allowing fluid past the seals that produce pressure. That wouldn't show on the outside but would provide less braking force and feel.
 
Joined
May 14, 2004
Messages
331
Location
The Great State of Texas
The master cylinder can leak internally by allowing fluid past the seals that produce pressure. That wouldn't show on the outside but would provide less braking force and feel.
That's exactly what it feels like. #$%@ aftermarket master cylinder.
Now if I can find that receipt.
 

IndianDoc

Crazy old Biker
Joined
Mar 8, 2008
Messages
2,106
Location
Sumter SC
That's exactly what it feels like. #$%@ aftermarket master cylinder.
Now if I can find that receipt.
If I am not mistaken several models of MC will work on your truck, and the one from a T-100 is a bigger bore, as is the 80 model but they all hook up on the four bolt booster.
 
Top Bottom