Brake booster pump acting up (1 Viewer)

[rockcrawlingyota]

1998 land cruiser 100
244k miles

I know there are a good bit of posts on this topic but I want to adress a new issue.

It all started on day when I was driving down the road and the motor stopped working.. abs and brake light turned on with the constant annoying buzzer sound. I get out and hit the acumulator and it kicks back on so I can get home. For some reason it runs for a while then kicks on and I have to thump it for it to start again. I'm thinking it's a strong possibility that the motor is bad. Considering I'm a broke college kid I'm trying to triple check everything else to make sure it's not another thing that's cheaper! Haha!!

I noticed that the wires coming from the black box that's the abs actuation I believe are corroded badly. I tried unscrewing them with a super short Philip's with no luck as it's in there real good. I soaked it in wd40 and tapped on the positive and negitave screws hoping that it will make a good connection if that's the problem.

does anyone know a reputable person/place to get the electric motors rebuilt that I could send mine to?

 

[YardPig]

There is a fellow on Ebay, Mudsearch will reveal the details.

 

[hickuptruck]

Carpartzaddictions or something like that on ebay. $350. Takes about 3hours to swap out including bleeding brakes.

 

[dinnertime]

Carpartzaddictions or something like that on ebay. $350. Takes about 3hours to swap out including bleeding brakes.

I did it in 35 mins, you dont have to pull the entire assembly.

 

[rockcrawlingyota]

350 just to rebuild the motor?

 

[bdruff]

I took mine to an electric motor shop. They were going to rebuild it for not much but it turned out that my motor was fine. I have a similar issue. I bought a whole booster, assembly, motor on ebay. I installed it and the issue went away for a bit, but it has come back once. That’s another story... but I do have the assembly sitting here. I paid $350 for the booster assembly. I think the motor goes for much less on ebay, but I’d look into having it rebuilt first. They do wear out eventually.

 

[rockcrawlingyota]

So you replaced the whole booster motor and accumulator and it still didnt work??

The thing about my motor is it doesnt make any weird noises or anything. Maybe it's just the contacts that are corroded..

I'm thinking if a car battery will sometimes start a car and sometimes not because of corrosion on the battery terminals, then it would only make sense that the corroded wire would intermittently supply current to power the unit on. And since I smack the accumulator and it kicks back on maybe that is just jolting the wire enough to get a connection...?

 

[bdruff]

I'm thinking that air is getting into my line. I get a pulsating, swooshing sound, followed by all alarms, then everything is ok.

Never had a brake performance problem. And the alarm goes off.

It's only happened once since I replaced the assembly.

Yours might be the more common problem of a worn out motor.

 

[rockcrawlingyota]

Ah I see. Well i wd40'd the contact points on the motor wires and tried to clean them off some. Everything has been working like it should for today. I'll come post again if it stops working

 

[aharlan001]

Just installed the rebuilt from the seller above. No issues so far. 350$ minus 75$ core -15% off eBay coupon = 222.50 still pricey however first go around was a junkyard replacement which was short cycling on install and started throwing the brake light again after two months.

 

[bdruff]

I swapped out a brake booster assembly and bled the brakes. No alarm for about a month. Then the exact same issue. Swishing sound coming from the booster assembly followed by the alarm. Bad luck with another bad assembly? It's $1,100 new but I've read other threads that say people have replaced the booster assembly at the dealer and still had similar issues. Is it possible to be getting air in the system somewhere that is causing the alarm? It is usually right at startup when it's been sitting. There has never been a change in brake performance but I'm sure the alarm means that it's coming. I want to fix it but I'm at a loss where to start.

 

[aharlan001]

No expert here but I have dealt with the same situation recently. Where did you get your pump? I'd start with pulling codes using techstream. Second I'd consider a new/reman acclimator depending on the codes and the source of the pump.

 

[bdruff]

I bought the pump assembly from eBay. I do have the techstream cable but not 100% sure how to use it. I'll definitely look into it.

 

[bdruff]

I can start with bleeding them again today. I've had the assembly out a few times now. I always bleed the brakes when I put it together. The problem goes away for 500-1000 miles. I thought the replacement booster assembly would stop it, but it is the same symptoms.

 

[aharlan001]

Is your pump behaving normally? How long does it run after depresurizing the system? Next step after confirming you have a good pump and acclumator seems to be H & L pressure sensors or master cylinder rebuild. I have not gotten to this point ... my second pump seems to be working ...

 

[bdruff]

Pump runs for about 30 seconds after evacuated system. Same as old pump.

 

[aharlan001]

Sounds correct.

 

[bdruff]

I have a master cylinder rebuild kit sitting on my work bench. What I've read so far doesn't point to the MC. Brakes feel great.

Any idea how to remove the accumulator off of the pump? The FSM Capps for a special tool.

 

[aharlan001]

I don't, I just replaced the pump which is held on with two Allan bolts.

 

[bdruff]

I don't, I just replaced the pump which is held on with two Allan bolts.

I think you mean the motor? I took my motor off and took it tdown to an electric motor shop. They said my motor was fine. The accumulator is the gold part on top that has grooves on the top for toyota sst