Yep, wheel cylders need to be in the proper orientation, side to side and frt to back, also some of the piston slots the shoes rest on are tapered to fit/match the arch of the shoe. Idk, if that your problem or not.
Brake bleeding question front disk rear drums (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter SaskFJ40
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A couple of lessons learned with bleeding. I had the best results using one of my sons on the pedal and pushing hard. This was way more aggressive than a vacuum bleeder and really shot the bubbles out. I also learned the hard way that every time I accidentally ran a reservoir dry I had to bench bleed the MC again. I figured out quickly how to bench bleed while on the truck. Good luck and keep at it.
ok if drums and shoes are tight and pedal soft isolated to rear wc's via the vise grip on soft line then try gravity bleeding the rears starting with wc that has an in & an out discoonet conector tube at other wc, and at the in & out wc. gravity bleed until fluid comes out the connector tube hole, plug with finger until fluid comes out that bleeder, close bleeder, remove finger and connect cross over tube while dripping, important to get cross over tube on as fast as possible to avoid fluid loss in 1st wc, wait for gravity to draw fluid thru cross over, sometimes this takes a bit, connect to last wc while bleeder on that cyl is OPEN, let gravity finish filling last wc. messy and slow but works, the inline wc traps air and its impossible to get out by pump bleeding. fill res often
- Thread starter
- #24
Thanks for the help fellas, I was going to get at it tonight but beer and Cohibas getting in the way. HAPPY FRIDAY!
- Thread starter
- #25
So I saw a video of a guy who says you can bleed you MC by hooking a hose up to your far bleeder valve and then submerging the other end in the MC reservoir and pumping away, does this sound like it will work? I bought 10 feet of aquarium hose to try it out tomorrow. I'm usually quite a handy guy but my brain is not made for brakes..... I will get there though... thanks
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It works, but go slow on the pedal release. Also make sure hose is in the bottle beneath the fluid, and don't run the master dry
The method I used to get the last little burp out of the MC was to have my son press and hold the pedal while I cracked the fittings on the MC one at a time until fluid came out the fitting. It’s a dance with one hand holding a rag and the other holding the flare wrench. Keep a bottle of brake cleaner close by to clean the MC. Having an IPA of my own and grilling some drumsticks after changing the plugs, coils and valve cover gaskets on my wife’s sequoia!
And Happy Friday!
that is how I do mine by myself, I position the clear jug where I can see it from the driver door, do 1 bleeder at a time, open bleeder a bit, then attach tubing, bend down to see the jug and use my hand to press on the pedal and watch the fluid go into the jug. you'll see the bubbles. don't lt the master run empty, hard part is keeping the tube attached and in the jug while tightening the bleeder. then go to the next one until the process is complete.
If it helps, I recently started using this bleeder bottle for brakes. Has a check valve built in and a magnet to hold it in place. It makes bleeding much easier. Possible for one person, or just much simpler for two.
Amazon...
Allstar Performance ALL11017 Bleeder Bottle with Magnet and Check Valve
Amazon...
Allstar Performance ALL11017 Bleeder Bottle with Magnet and Check Valve
- Thread starter
- #31
Brakes are still not perfect but much better, adjust adjust adjust.
Hi, Wife and I just bled the fj80 and fj60. What a pain ! I will say the old fluid looked very dark and contaminated. We worked on these for 2 days. Replaced 2 soft lines that looked ? Able. Frequently thought I had the air bubbles out of one line to find more bubbles still coming out. We just kept after it. Mike
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