My 2000 lost it's power brakes while my 17 year old daughter was driving. After a $300 tow bill to get it home, I discovered a rusted ruptured line running along the driver's side frame to the rear. I cut out 18" of the rusted line and spliced in new line with double flares on the ends. The reservoir obviously was completely drained so I'm not sure whether I can get the system properly bled without the Techstream tool. I've been able to bleed the 2 fronts and the rear driver's, but can only get a dribble from the rear passenger caliper. When the key is on, the booster pump turns on every 6 seconds for about a second. Even when I pump the brakes with the key off 40 times to drain the accumulator, I still get the same behavior from the booster pump when the key is turned on- pumps for 1 second every 5-6 seconds. Does this sound like an additional issue with the booster pump? Should I have it towed to someone that can bleed it properly? Battery is completely charged. Thanks for any advice!
Brake bleeding question after rusted line repair (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jonah111
- Start date
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JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
The reservoir draining completely isn’t a big deal with these electronic booster assemblies. No need pull it and bench bleed like you would a vacuum booster. Mine sat dry as a bone for a few months, and bled just fine (via techstream) once I got back around to finishing the brake work.
Sounds like you still have a lot of air in that rear passenger line. Techstream makes this process much easier and faster. However, you can also just gravity bleed the rear lines.
Sounds like you still have a lot of air in that rear passenger line. Techstream makes this process much easier and faster. However, you can also just gravity bleed the rear lines.
First thing: dude, one busted, others are gonna bust. All of them suspect. You can get all new pre-bent from your local Toyota dealer, couple hundred bucks total.
Next thing: no need for techstream, I don’t think. The motor is just doin it’s auto shutoff cuz it’s sensing a fault in the system. I think it just does it when there isn’t enough fluid in the ABS unit itself. I didn’t have that issue when I replaced all my hardlines, but I did have it when I replaced my master/booster assembly. Damn thing kept beeping and pump would only run 5 seconds, even after bleeding all 4 wheels. Eventually I pumped the brake pedal a bunch and let the truck idle 5 or 10 minutes while I fired up techstream on ancient laptop. But by the time techstream got started, the truck stopped beeping and no error codes and it was all good. So yeah, I’d try pumping pedal a lot and let it idle for a while.
Next thing: no need for techstream, I don’t think. The motor is just doin it’s auto shutoff cuz it’s sensing a fault in the system. I think it just does it when there isn’t enough fluid in the ABS unit itself. I didn’t have that issue when I replaced all my hardlines, but I did have it when I replaced my master/booster assembly. Damn thing kept beeping and pump would only run 5 seconds, even after bleeding all 4 wheels. Eventually I pumped the brake pedal a bunch and let the truck idle 5 or 10 minutes while I fired up techstream on ancient laptop. But by the time techstream got started, the truck stopped beeping and no error codes and it was all good. So yeah, I’d try pumping pedal a lot and let it idle for a while.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Not exactly. When fluid is low, the alarm (beep) sounds. When air in system, motor runs frequently trying to build pressure.
