Brake bleed - neverending?

redeye

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Yeah I remember when mounting them saying to myself "well, the brakes lines look kinked but Toyota wouldn't have made it possible to mount the calipers incorrectly." I didn't even think to give it a second look. It wasn't until a fellow Mudder (and a young 'en at that) came over and noticed it in 2 seconds flat. Haha

I'm very happy it's resolved. I thought I was going crazy.
 
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Me too...

I'm having issues with air in the LSPV myself. Last night we bled PS rear caliper and DS rear caliper with no issues (2-man method). Then I cracked open the LSPV fitting it started quirting air bubbles out of it like mad.... :crybaby:

I've tried and tried with my helper to bleed it all out of there to no avail. Not sure what's up, maybe the fitting itself is corroded and is not closing correctly?! I'm getting a different helper today... :)

I've read this whole post but can't find any similarities in my situation since I've removed nothing except the wheels. :hmm:
 

redeye

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Stevo: not sure. The wife wants a real stereo, so I've got a feeling that'll be next. However, some needed maintenance items (not projects really) are coming up very shortly - PHH bypass (and maybe all coolant hoses), #2 oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, and if I feel ambitious the oil pump cover and crank bolt seal.

mercfan: I followed the FSM and did PS rear, DS rear, PS front, DS front, then LSPV last. Did you move to fronts before trying the LSPV?
 
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I followed the FSM and did PS rear, DS rear, PS front, DS front, then LSPV last. Did you move to fronts before trying the LSPV?
No, I followed some of the posts above that stated with some authority that the order for an 80 is: PS rear, DS rear, then LSPV... so that's as far as I got.
 
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Jacket

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I had similar issues when I bled the LSPV - seemed to have an endless supply of air. The only thing I remember was that it seemed to come in "waves", where I would get a solid stream of brake fluid for a few pumps, and then I'd find more air. So after numerous attempts to push all the air out, I just waited for a cycle of good solid fluid flow, and closed it up. Works Ok for 80 brakes (which are just too mushy for my liking).
 
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I had similar issues when I bled the LSPV - seemed to have an endless supply of air. The only thing I remember was that it seemed to come in "waves", where I would get a solid stream of brake fluid for a few pumps, and then I'd find more air. So after numerous attempts to push all the air out, I just waited for a cycle of good solid fluid flow, and closed it up. Works Ok for 80 brakes (which are just too mushy for my liking).
That's exactly what I did... my wife was inside the truck but after numerous attempts I just waited for a good steam and closed it all up. I don't expect great things out of this job... :rolleyes:

The thing that I'm suspecting is this: the clear plastic tubing - which fit snugly the first time around has become too stretched out and is now allowing miniscule amounts of air to enter the stream. If I get motivated I'm going to try it again - only this time I'll cut off a piece of the tubing before pushing it onto the bleeder valve.
 

kiwidog

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Red Deer Alberta
Bleeding brakes

Installed a new M/C and proceeded to bleed the brakes.

This method seemed to work well.
Used a vacuum pump and a intermediate bottle to catch the fluid. Use 1/8" rubber vacuum hose from the nipple to to bottle and clear plastic hose from bottle to pump.
Found one bleed screw plugged at the the hole under the cone. The rubber hose fits the the nipple better and retains it shape and seal. Found the the bleed screws can leak air back into the calliper at the threads. Put teflon tape on the screw to seal the air out. That way they hold vacuum as well. Pulled vacuum on each bleed screw including the LSPV. You can see the bubbles in the stream as breaks in the stream as it enters the bottle. Made sure the reservoir was always keep at least half full. Pulled enough fluid through to have a solid stream with no bubbles. took about 1 1/4 litres of fluid The fluid does not come very fast, the the hole in the bleed screw ( internal hole) is very small. This may be so the bleeder doesn't leak air back. See some aftermarket bleed screws have a thread sealant already installed on them. The teflon tape seems to do the trick.
Have hard pedal now. Only requires one person. Took about 45 minutes to do the job.
Think the problems arise with bleeding because of combination of many factors. Which if you sytematically eliminate them, the job becomes easier and effective.
Pulled the M/C a part and it looked good compared to some of the ones on 40's I have seen, that still worked fine. It seems the the 80 brakes are very touchy to a stack-up of a bunch of factors, one by itself probably doesn't matter however when you get them all together you get a lollapalooza effect which is a soft brake pedal. So now we have the problem of changing more the one thing and not knowing exactly which made the difference.
One thing I do know, is hard is better than soft.

Thanks jb
 

Delancy

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Anyone know the possible source for the in cab clicking when depressing pedal?
 

Delancy

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So is it normal?

Never noticed it in a year of driving, only after latest round of brake work.
 
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The click - click is the relay under your center console allowing you to shift out of park.....i found that out over the weekend while doing my brakes. Took me a minute to figure it out.
 
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It should only click when you press the brake pedal down, and again when you take your foot off the pedal. If its clicking when you foot is off the pedal, i have no idea...could be the wiring.
 

Delancy

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It should only click when you press the brake pedal down, and again when you take your foot off the pedal. If its clicking when you foot is off the pedal, i have no idea...could be the wiring.
It only clicks at those times, but is noticeably louder now.

Maybe I just need to turn up the volume on the Krawlers....
 
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Aug 31, 2014
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Never pumping...person in car pushes pedal to the floor one time and holds. Crack open the bleeder valve then tighten. Person in car releases pedal then pushes down again and holds. Crack open the bleeder valve then tighten again... slow steady pressure is fine. Pumping like a madman is potentially damaging to the seals and makes it difficult to monitor the flow at the other end. Never let the Master cylinder run dry and repeat until there is a steady stream of brake fluid. Repeat at all four corners.
 
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Bleeding brakes. Fun doing it by myself. My method is, while keeping the MC reservoir topped up, pump brake pedal a few times, hold it down with a block of wood, crack bleeder. Once pressure is off, shut bleeder, unblock pedal and pump pedal some more, block it down, rinse and repeat as many times as needed to get nice clean fresh fluid with no bubbles out the respective bleeder.

The LSPV was a bit of an eye opener. I didn't bleed it last time I did the brakes (over a yr ago) and what came out of it for the first few bleed cycles was black, and it was slightly interested in partying with the skin on my hand. Plenty of water fixed that. So to do the back (LHR caliper, LSPV, then RHR caliper) I've done about 18 pump/block/crack/release cycles and in total it's used about 1/2 litre of fluid for re-filling after I replaced brake lines, then the bleeding.

During all this (engine not running of course) the pedal is not going hard, but that might just be due to the front calipers not being done yet. I hope I'm not discovering a problem with the master cylinder in the process but so far I can't get the pedal to go hard and I do not get a massive jet of fluid when I crack open a bleeder - just a little spurt then straight back to almost a gravity trickle.

My 80 doesn't have ABS. If the MC is bad, that puts the vehicle out of use until next year until I've got funds to replace it. Hope when I do the front calipers it goes hard.
 
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