Brake backing plate pattern. (1 Viewer)

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Tigerstripe40

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I need to make a tool to press the bearings off of my Tacoma's axle shaft. I don't have a spare minitruck or tacoma housing, but I do have a spare FJ60 rear housing that I can cut up to make a press tool.
Any clue if these are the same pattern? A quick measurement with a tape measure looks like they might be but I was trying to find a definitive answer.
 
It's not the same.

Also, this design is ridiculously stupid.
 
Not sure which design you think is stupid?
Frankly c-clip axles are a shyt design (and weak comparatively) . The mini truck semi float is uber strong.
The bearing job is gravy with the tool. ;)
 
Not sure which design you think is stupid?
Frankly c-clip axles are a shyt design (and weak comparatively) . The mini truck semi float is uber strong.
The bearing job is gravy with the tool. ;)

With $600 worth of tools...

The land Cruiser full floater is better IMHO. Can be serviced without a press or SST.
 
I'm very seriously considering having a custom 1 ton full floater made to replace the rear end.
 
Only money really required is a press. Even then, tge bearing can be charged without ANY special tools.
Are FF better, sure. But at what cost?
You going to blow 2k trying to save 60?
 
I dont know about this $600 in tools buisiness, i changed my tacoma bearimgs with a simple press and one of those two piece bearing plates
 
You can get the inner race off of a Toyota C clip axle by welding a bead across it and quenching it in water. It will shatter like glass.
 
I did the rear bearings on my T100 (same axle design) The first tool I built was too light, ripped out the welds. Made a much heavier tool, pretty much identical to the OTC and such tools you see. That did the trick. I used heavy flat plate, matched the bolt pattern on the back of the bearing retainer, cut a large hole in the middle. Super duper wleded some 3 inch pipe to that that, then welded some channel on the end of that with a hole through it that would slide up through the press and turn to hold it. One side was like a rifle shot going off when it let go.

I watched the youtube vids and stuff. I tried the BFH approach, the beat the axle on a wood block approach, the drop method, etc... All it did was hurt my hands and bend the brake backing plate all up. As I said, after that one let go with so much force, there was no way I was going to get it without a press. I did it with the cheapy HF 12 ton model. I think I had to take the bottom spreader off to get it in the press.

I don't know if it is a bad design, my truck had 250K+ miles on the rear bearings and they weren't really fried. I just did them as preventative, they probably would have lasted a lot longer. My FZJ80 on the other hand, bearings were never touched for 130K miles. Bearings were crap when I took them out for service, seals gone, oil all over. Was on a time budget, so I repacked what I had and put it back together. Tore it back down last summer and replaced the bearings, but the fretting wear on the welded spindle of the housing is a real issue now at 180K. New bearings helped, but I still struggled to get a good preload on the worn spindle. I actually used the punch trick and dimpled the bottoms and sanded them down till the bearings fit tighter. Repairing that takes a new axle housing. I wish those spindles bolted on like the fronts, that would be better, but not as strong.
 
You can get the inner race off of a Toyota C clip axle by welding a bead across it and quenching it in water. It will shatter like glass.

This is not a C Clip axle (that would have been easier to handle, as I own the appropriate tools to service it having had an FJ40 for 20 years).

A 20 ton hydraulic press is now in my shop and I am modifying a HF tools bearing tool so if I ever have to do this again, it's going to be an easy in and out deal.
 
I made some tools out of pipe fittings from home depot. They worked fine for wheel bearing and seal replacement on a 99 4runner and an 02 tundra.
These fittings are very inexpensive. The fitting that mounts to the backing plate did break once during axle shaft removal, but I was in the middle of the job so I just went and bought another fitting. The metal is low quality cast steel alloy so the break was a slow motion "tear" and not a catastrophic failure where metal bits flew all over the place.

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