Brake advice, 85 FJ60 (1 Viewer)

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CenTXFJ60

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Apr 1, 2014
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4,058
Location
Spring Branch TX (Hill Country)
So my 85 is an all stock set up. PO put in a new Aisen master. Did not bench bleed it. I redid all the knuckles, brakes, new calipers, shoes and wheel cylinders. I then bench bled the master and bled whole system with a mytivac bleeder system. I’ve done this on several trucks with good results. However I still have a spongy pedal on the first push. Second push is always 100%. I bought a new master from Napa. As I was taking the system apart I realized there’s a proportioning valve (seems to be what it is) below the master. I’ve seen these on all my 60’s however the FSM does not show it. I took it off and put around 80psi through both ports and the air flows right through. I have another from a part out and only one side flows freely. Was hoping the FSM could tell me how to test this valve. So my question is just that. And any other suggestions you may have. Thanks. Jimmy.
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I’ve got the same issue with my brakes. Driven it like that for some time. Been meaning to bleed them. I probably should check the pedal height and then the rod IIRC. Gut tells me there is air in the system. I’ve replaced the proportioning valve before, only because it was leaking though.

Following along.
 
How about disassembling one valve and show us what's in it? I've always thought there was a shuttle valve inside which moved to adjust forward and aft flow volume.

City Racer sells new ones if you need.
 
This is a common problem with 60/62s for some reason. I had to bleed and bleed using two large cans to finally get the air out of the system. Helps to have someone press and hold the pedal before you open the bleed (RR, RL, FR, then FL) and helps to tap the lines/caliper/MC/Cylinders with mallet to release any trapped bubbles.
 
Squishy brakes for me have always been the hand brake being out of adjustment.
Alex, so the handbrake is directly related to the adjustment of the rear shoes. Nate @mattressking shot me a text suggesting just this. I’ve always done the lockout/few clicks backing off on the wheel cylinders. It’s very possible I overlooked it on this truck. Would make sense as the first pedal has to travel further before full pressures are achieved. I’ll verify this first thing when I get into the shop later this morning. Also, I’ll try to demo the extra valve I have per the other mud members request. Im curious as well to know how that functions. And if the brake shoe adjustment works, I’ll get $75 back from Napa when I return their master cylinder :).
 
I would engage the rear wheel cylinders a few clicks before I do anything else.
 
I found the attached pages in the 1980 Chassis and Body manual that includes the FJ60
Perfect. I see it warns against opening or adjusting the valve. Good to know
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Thank you to everyone for your input. A big thanks to Nate @mattressking for the text message about adjusting the rear shoes. I could have sworn I did it originally. I’m the first to acknowledge that I learn from my mistakes and this certainly was one. Really glad I get to return the Napa master and get $75 back!!!
 
I bet the handbrake and drums are happy now !
They are. And I found the passenger side bell crank was completely frozen. I broke it down, cleaned and greased it. Works great now.
 
Thanks for reporting your findings @CenTXFJ60

This makes sense because I was paranoid about how much the shoes were touching the drum. (I thought the e-brake would take care of the rest.) I’ll have to give it a go before too long. Need to fix another issue first.
 
They self set once you’ve got the handbrake fixed up and functional. It got me badly the first time.
 

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