Bought a 96 with some axle problems... (1 Viewer)

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Nov 30, 2005
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Hi. I've just bought a 96 landcruiser with 114k. I bought it without much inspection (so stupid..so so stupid) besides a quick once over because I know the PO. The brakes felt very soft and I thought it was a bleed job and that was it and at most pads and rotors. Well I bled them and they improved dramatically, but still would occasionally bottom out. I thought it must be the master cylinders shaft not sealing well all the time and took it to Toyota for diagnosis. They come back and tell me that the PO had some inferior brake work done, shims were missing and things weren't tightend correctly which has caused some problems. The left side was leaking some grease/oil and because it wasn't tightened correctly they said it had worn out where the axle went into the transmission. Now I test drove the vehicle at highway speeds and it was tight and straight, engaged the tranny in low, offroad and tested all that. No noise, no popping. Toyota of course tells me it is not safe to drive at all because it could damage the transmission and it isn't safe. oh... they also gave me an estimate of $2887.00 to fix the leak and do brakes all the way around. They quoted 12 hours labor at $98/hr for the front end (came to $1440) alone. I quickly got online and found this forum and many good threads on the same problem and now know that small amount of grease is grease and diff fluid and why:) I bought the truck for $7500 as an extra vehicle (thought it was a good deal..lol) and don't need to drive it so I've got the time to do the work myself. My only concern is the statement they made that "where the axle goes into the transmission was worn out". Any ideas as to what they are referring to? I bought the haynes manual and after looking here seem to need the fsm and I've pm'ed elmariachi for the dvd. I don't want to get it apart and messy only to find a problem I can't fix. Is it just the seal or bearings they are talking about? Could there possibly be any machining involved in their fix or are they just replacing the seals like everyone else on here only slower:)? Is it a bad idea not to change the bearings if they look good, will that speed up the job dramatically or should I just do them as well? Thanks for letting me ramble on my first post!
 

woody

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"transmission" and "axle" are separate parts entirely....you sure they aren't referring to the inner axle seal, which keeps the moly lube for the birfield separate from the 80w90 used to lube the ring/pinion?
 
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The dealer likely has some comm problems between the mechs and the guy at the counter, ask to talk to the mech that diagnosed it, and if he says those exact words, then you have been blessed with a tard. You can also ask him to show you in his FSM where the problem is. Woody is probably on the right track but it could be wheel bearings or spindle problems based on the "not tightened correctly"
Good luck and it sounds like you have an idea of which way is up so you should be fine.
Dan
 
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derrickbwg said:
My only concern is the statement they made that "where the axle goes into the transmission was worn out". Any ideas as to what they are referring to?
No idea but a guess would be where the axle goes in to the birfield (CV). That might explain the high costs if they planned to replace both inner and outer axles. The axles can develop a "groove" where the inner axle oil seal rides. The proper fix is to replace the axle. Most DIY guys would have it sleeved.

derrickbwg said:
Could there possibly be any machining involved in their fix or are they just replacing the seals like everyone else on here only slower?
It will take you longer than 12 hours if this is your first time doing a front axle service. That estimate seems about right for a dealer.

derrickbwg said:
Is it a bad idea not to change the bearings if they look good, will that speed up the job dramatically or should I just do them as well? Thanks for letting me ramble on my first post!
Replacing the bearings will speed up the job since you can pitch the old ones instead of cleaning. I keep the used bearings and races as spares so they end up getting cleaned anyway.

Your rambling would be easier to comprehend if you would space out your questions so that they can be addressed individually. Otherwise, you'll just get rambling answers instead of direct responses to each question.

And welcome. :flipoff2:

-B-
 
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In searching I've found quite a few vendors selling the parts to do the rebuild. Any suggestions for a comprenhensive kit at a good price?

If I see the grooves on the axles should I go oem or are there better options for replacements?

Thanks.
 

CharlieS

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Call cruiser Dan at American Toyota foar any and all parts. They have a banner ad in the vendors section. He'll send you every part you may need and will give you a good price on top of that.

Charlie
 
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Because he said, "not tightened correctly" and "not safe to drive", I would take a look at the 4 studs coming out of the bottom of the knuckle housing where the knuckle arm bolts too. These have been known to back out after an axle job, and would be an unsafe condition.

Welcome, you've come across a very valuable resource if you plan on doing your own work, the FSM is a must, C-Dan is the man for OEM parts and FSM for that matter.

:beer:
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Thanks for the info. I just ordered the front end parts along with front rotors and pads from Dan. Hopefully it won't take me more than a couple of weekends to complete.
 
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Derrick,

I would be surprised if your truck needed anything more than an ordinary front axle repack and perhaps brake pads and a bleed for the soft pedal. Most of what you relayed to us is hogwash. I wouldn't worry you'll find any grooving other than the normal amount and I'll guarantee the dealer has not seen this spot to be able to say with authority there's a problem (would require a complete teardown to even see this).

So, you're on the right track. Put at least $2000 back in the bank for finding this forum and doing this job yourself. It's very messy, but actually quite simple. Just doing the cleaning is 30% of the time required. Get the FSM, put in fresh bearings, and even purchasing a couple hundred dollars in tools and brake pads you'll be ahead 2K.

DougM
 

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