bored in the shop tonight....tested out my new Drill Doctor, VERY nice...disassembled to t-cases for fun/practice....and found a disassembled diff laying around....just add a Miller 185 and you have a potentially dangerous situation....
...bored with welder... (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter woody
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two...
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and three...
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...four...(see a trend here?)
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and finally....ready to re-rotate and slip in the cross pin...
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Pic 1....I used a short side front in the vice....and short side rear in the opposite side. The orange pry bar allowed me to apply leverage during the intial welds, insuring that the gears were tightly meshed and that all the brass washers were snug against the case....put in for tack welds for starters...
BTW: welder is a Miller 185 on .030 solid core and mixed gas....highest power setting, about 70 on the wire speed...
pic 2 is a nice blurry shot of the initial welds....lol
3 shows the backside welds...all these MUST be done with the cross pin in place, to ensure no movement. Gaps are the cause of most welded diff destruction...
4 shows an experiment...rotated a 1/4 turn...and realized I could add lots of weld here for strength, and not effect the later installation of the center block required for rear axle c-clip installs....
and 5 shows the final weld point on the opposite site....
Cross pin slid back in with minor/expected persuasion. Spider gear washers are always a trick once welded, they were snug to install, which is good. Took a VERY sharp chisel and a hammer and tapped out any/all spatter I could find/reach....not much fortunately...short weld burts and high heat with the mixed gas left things pretty clean....
BTW: welder is a Miller 185 on .030 solid core and mixed gas....highest power setting, about 70 on the wire speed...
pic 2 is a nice blurry shot of the initial welds....lol
3 shows the backside welds...all these MUST be done with the cross pin in place, to ensure no movement. Gaps are the cause of most welded diff destruction...
4 shows an experiment...rotated a 1/4 turn...and realized I could add lots of weld here for strength, and not effect the later installation of the center block required for rear axle c-clip installs....
and 5 shows the final weld point on the opposite site....
Cross pin slid back in with minor/expected persuasion. Spider gear washers are always a trick once welded, they were snug to install, which is good. Took a VERY sharp chisel and a hammer and tapped out any/all spatter I could find/reach....not much fortunately...short weld burts and high heat with the mixed gas left things pretty clean....
- Thread starter
- #7
for the record, zero grinder time in there....will pull a pic of the diff with the cross pin in tomorrow, may need to touch up/fill a few places.
Get 'er hot, let 'er flow...
(kinda like an evening with Junk's momma....eeewwww)
Get 'er hot, let 'er flow...
(kinda like an evening with Junk's momma....eeewwww)
TJDIV
UP of MI.
forgive me for never having done what I've just witnessed, but did I just look at a welded diff, and what are the benefits.
Looking for a little late night education, of the mechanical kind that is.
Looking for a little late night education, of the mechanical kind that is.
TJDIV
UP of MI.
Ahh....now I get it. Both uh dem be turnin' mate.
whats it like drving with them locked all the time? sounds fun in the rain or snow...eeeekkk
[quote author=lowtideride link=board=1;threadid=8336;start=msg70520#msg70520 date=1070428611]
whats it like drving with them locked all the time? sounds fun in the rain or snow...eeeekkk
[/quote]
Pull up your skirt!
Where is you sense of adventure?? :
whats it like drving with them locked all the time? sounds fun in the rain or snow...eeeekkk
[/quote]
Pull up your skirt!
Where is you sense of adventure?? :
Thanks for postin' the pics Woody... When I get my new ring and pinion sets, I'm gonna weld my spiders just like that (rear only). Actually those are the best pics I've seen of of the mod. I've not seen any showing that you can remove the center pin and rotate the whole mess around and weld the other side!!
Thanks for being bored!
Thanks for being bored!
While you're bored, why don't you just pop that mess of metal in the mail while you're at it? My address is . . . .
Move it to the tech section!
Move it to the tech section!
- Thread starter
- #17
Bodacious, I've yet to be that bored!
Yeppers, welded is for rear only, there is no spool available for Cruisers, and I'm honestly too cheap to do a locker at this point. The key is to still allow insertion of the center block.
I weld 8 places, rotate 90 and weld the openings between gears.....really, there is still more to do, but it got too hot to keep turning, so I gave up for the night....
I know people who do daily drive welded rears and they claim it's not much different than a locker with a heavy foot...my rig is 99% trail use and for that application, it's perfect.
Yeppers, welded is for rear only, there is no spool available for Cruisers, and I'm honestly too cheap to do a locker at this point. The key is to still allow insertion of the center block.
I weld 8 places, rotate 90 and weld the openings between gears.....really, there is still more to do, but it got too hot to keep turning, so I gave up for the night....
I know people who do daily drive welded rears and they claim it's not much different than a locker with a heavy foot...my rig is 99% trail use and for that application, it's perfect.
I hope you plan on additional welding, that doesn't look like quite enough. When I welded my rear D60 and Front D44 several years ago (when you still thought it was gheto), I welded all the spider gear teeth and then welded to the carrier. I ended up with a huge ball of weld inside the carrier, and no way for it to break loose.
Just my .02 worth...... but hey, it looks like a good start! Nice and clean!
Ok, my bad, yer still working on it!
Just my .02 worth...... but hey, it looks like a good start! Nice and clean!
Ok, my bad, yer still working on it!
Woah! What a neighborhood! I think I see a part I need on that animal Bodacious...novel way to keep track of what parts you have... put them in sculpture around the shop. You definitely won't loose those adjustables. All sculpturing definitely awesome you guys.
Very cool pics, even this dumb ass mechanic wannabe can understand now how that works! I just now don't trust ny welding skills!
Goebs
Goebs
