Bonnet Hinge recess rain leak. 1985 FJ73 (1 Viewer)

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Jun 10, 2017
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Hey guys,

Have had a rainwater leak into the passenger side footwell for quite a while. Gets pretty wet. Have done some hosing and have narrowed it down a bit. Most of the water comes straight through the bonnet Hinge. I have put a hose straight down the bonnet Hinge recess and it's a direct channel for water to come straight into the footwell.

Have read something like this in the exploroz forum and from what I can gather the suggestion was to silicone up the drain hole in the bonnet Hinge recess and sell it, otherwise panels will have to be removed and a seam rewelded?

Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I don't back myself removing fenders and the like.

Cheers
 
That sounds a bit drastic. My 73 leaks on the drivers side, and pretty sure it's the windshield rubber.
Hey Pithicus thanks for the speedy reply. Yeah I know the windshield rubbers are to blame a lot of the time. But no spray on the windshield at all. Hose shoved directly into bonnet Hinge recess and water straight into the footwell.
 
Just had look at mine. Maybe taking off the wiper panel will reveal rust holes ?
A rubber boot could be fashioned to go over the hinge hole if water is getting in there?
Hmm, now you have me worried.
 
Just had look at mine. Maybe taking off the wiper panel will reveal rust holes ?
A rubber boot could be fashioned to go over the hinge hole if water is getting in there?
Hmm, now you have me worried.
Wiper panel has been removed no rust, or rust holes. Have shoved an inspection camera down there too but couldn't find anything. Could only get as far as the bonnet Hinge recess. Have thought of the rubber boot but wouldn't mind knowing what the actual issue is and if something better could be done.

Yes it is worrying! Grab a bottle of water and pour it down the bonnet Hinge recess. You should know pretty quickly if you share the worry.
 
Rhd or lhd? Either way, one option is that the weather stripping around the debris wall, don’t know what else to call it, for the cabin air inlet is determined enough that when you get a lot of water at one time it pushes under the lip? Then the water would enter the area that the fan is in.

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I had roughly the same problem but it was rust in the air intake behind the hood (bonnet). Mine were large holes in the firewall on both sides, so removed the dash and spent MANY hours on my back grinding cleaning prepping and fiberglass in the holes.
Yours sounds much simpler. Here in the US we have this stuff called flex-seal which is a rubbery liquid that dries hard and seals up small holes. It comes in many forms: paint can, spray can and even tape now. Depending on the hole size and product availability in your region (I’m guessing non-US) this could be the quick fix. Selling the rig is just silly talk.
 
Rhd or lhd? Either way, one option is that the weather stripping around the debris wall, don’t know what else to call it, for the cabin air inlet is determined enough that when you get a lot of water at one time it pushes under the lip? Then the water would enter the area that the fan is in.

View attachment 2369093

View attachment 2369094
Thanks coldtaco,

It's a RHD.

The test was only through the bonnet Hinge recess which has a drain hole that drops onto a shelf below what you have pictured. Believe the crack/holes are somewhere lower than this debris wall. Not sure if it's the name for it but I like it.
 
I had roughly the same problem but it was rust in the air intake behind the hood (bonnet). Mine were large holes in the firewall on both sides, so removed the dash and spent MANY hours on my back grinding cleaning prepping and fiberglass in the holes.
Yours sounds much simpler. Here in the US we have this stuff called flex-seal which is a rubbery liquid that dries hard and seals up small holes. It comes in many forms: paint can, spray can and even tape now. Depending on the hole size and product availability in your region (I’m guessing non-US) this could be the quick fix. Selling the rig is just silly talk.
Rhino this sounds like it could be the go. Thanks for the reply. You wouldn't happen to have any pictures of the process?

How long did it take to take the dash out? Any tips of what's to come out first, or is it all pretty simple. Have removed different parts of the dash at different times but never the whole thing.

I've heard too many "I wish I never sold it"s to think about selling.
 
Coldtaco, how do you get at this area? Take fender off?
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From the top and/or from underneath. Underneath you need to remove the blower assembly, all of it. From the top you have to remove the cowl in front of the windshield and remove the plastic grill (that should be there)

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Red marks the spots were fasteners have to be removed. Removing the big parts can be a pain

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I did removed the cowl on mine and the plastic grills(big & small), didn't see any protruding lip for the air inlet! I'll have to take a double look when time permits it. Mice can climb up the drain holes and bypass the plastic grills and into the air inlet if anyone has that problem:oops:
 
Thanks.
I need to take the bonnet off mine anyway to do something about failing paint.
The blower can come out without disturbing ac components? The dash can remain in place?
 
Thanks.
I need to take the bonnet off mine anyway to do something about failing paint.
The blower can come out without disturbing ac components? The dash can remain in place?
It's been a loong time since I have had to remove any of this parts, but I think if you remove the glove box that should be enough to access all the bolts and nuts you need to get to, it will be a pain and seem like it will not work. Getting the upper "hook" off the stud will be a pain, just give it a really good hard fast tug, don't try to do it slowly.
 
From the top and/or from underneath. Underneath you need to remove the blower assembly, all of it. From the top you have to remove the cowl in front of the windshield and remove the plastic grill (that should be there)

View attachment 2371352

View attachment 2371353

View attachment 2371354
Red marks the spots were fasteners have to be removed. Removing the big parts can be a pain

View attachment 2371356
It's been a loong time since I have had to remove any of this parts, but I think if you remove the glove box that should be enough to access all the bolts and nuts you need to get to, it will be a pain and seem like it will not work. Getting the upper "hook" off the stud will be a pain, just give it a really good hard fast tug, don't try to do it slowly.
Hey thanks for all the info coldtaco, good to get a visual on what it takes. In those photos did you remove the whole dash? How long did it take to remove if you remember roughly?
 

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