bolts through roll bar . . . can it be safe?

[slickrock]

I am working on a way to attach my roof rack to my roll bar. One way ,and this is where I need someone with more experience than I, is to bolt the carrier's feet direclty to the roll cage.

What type of metal weakness would occure if I drilled 2 1/4 holes lined up with the feet through the roll cage and use slightlly smaller than 1/4" bolts to secure the carrier? I would get some 1/4" tube and put that through the holea and weld them in place as a sleeve for the bolt and help keep some strength.

Is this a bad idea? I am asking here before I do it so don't flame too much.

I have a Yakamah type gutter mount cross bar set up I can also use. The other option would be to weld on some 1/4" angle iron the lenght of the cross bar gutter mount supports to the cage. The angle would work like the gutter mount on a the 40 and could try to attach cross bars this way.

I cannot simply set the carrier on top of the cage because the halo angles down towards the windshield and it gets to close to my head and I would forget it is there and knock myself sensless every time I got in or out.

 

[TLCHopII]

there are a number of clamping systems and hardware vendors out there that can accomplish what you desire w/o drilling & welding. Barring (punn intended) that get a hold of of some thick wall DOM or HREW (3/16" - 1/4") with an internal diameter that matches your need. Pierce the tubing dead center. Be sure the tubing extends 3/16" or more past both "sides" of the roll bar. Full weld, all the way around new tubing at both ends. Allow to cool, coat & put into service.

This assumes you are an accomplished welder. If not find someone who is. Nothing on that rack, nor the rack itself is worth you, your passenger(s) or others in the vacinity lives!

 

[shelfboy1]

get some heavy duty muffler clamps the right diameter and just bolt it on good luck

 

[D'Animal]

There are two styles of driving. The first is Recreational Rollers, guys who roll their rig and giggle because they did not make the "Hard Line" up the trail. (I think Woody is at 27 on his FJ40)

The second is the driver who hopes he never uses his rollcage for it's intended purpose, but when it is needed, it had better hold up.


I vote for angle iron or the clamps.


If I were going to drill a hole in the cage, I would drill it oversized and weld in a sleeve. This would keep the strength and not allow the tube to crush during tightening.

 

[Degnol]

X2 on the tube clamps.....https://www.polyperformance.com/shop/O.D.-Tube-Clamp-p-1727.html

 

[slickrock]

Thanks guys. I am going to look at the muffler clamps first. If that doesn't work, I will probably go with the angle iron.

 

[D'Animal]

Megolfer had some brackets when he ran the roof rack on his mini with the "dirty old man camper shell".

You could look at his for ideas.

 

[Magnum44]

Take a look at these two piece collars. I use them for various things now and again and you can get them in steel, stainless etc. and not too expensive. Check around for best price. I'm not suggesting this company but they had good pics.

Manufacturer of Shaft Collars, Rigid Shaft Couplings and Keyless Locking Assemblies

 

[jagota]

Fourtreks.com also makes a two piece clamp that can mount just about anything to a rollbar. Very nice looking product.

 

[slickrock]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I am on a tight budget and not a lot of time to get this together. I think I am going to weld on some angle at each corner of the role cage in line with the carrier cross bars and use my Yakama rack. I think the angle will emulate the hard top rain gutter enough to allow me to use them and they will be out of the way and can leave them on all time.

Going to pick up the angle Tuesday and get it welded up and test it with the Yakama bars. Will post pics.

 

[delta21]

There are holes drilled in the roll bar from the factory,I don’t think that drilling holes the size you are talking about in the roll bar is going to cause a catastrophic failure of the roll bar, my concern would be the added leverage and stress you would be putting on the base of the roll bar in the event of a rollover by adding a luggage rack and gear. The factory roll bars were never designed to hold up in a high speed crash. This thread is going to be about as fun as asking "what tires should I buy?"

 

[Brian in Oregon]

My rollbar has small tabs welded to it, and these tabs have a hole for attachments. These particular tabs allow the factory long bench seats to bolt up to the rollbar.

 

[TLCHopII]

If going with the angle iron idea then suggest welding in captive nuts to make mounting and dismounting the rack much easier.

 

[Milkwagon]

My rollbar has small tabs welded to it, and these tabs have a hole for attachments. These particular tabs allow the factory long bench seats to bolt up to the rollbar.

Can you please pm a picture. I am looking for a way to mount the long seats and the cage is on the way.

Thanks.

 

[slickrock]

There are holes drilled in the roll bar from the factory,I don’t think that drilling holes the size you are talking about in the roll bar is going to cause a catastrophic failure of the roll bar, my concern would be the added leverage and stress you would be putting on the base of the roll bar in the event of a rollover by adding a luggage rack and gear. The factory roll bars were never designed to hold up in a high speed crash. This thread is going to be about as fun as asking "what tires should I buy?"

I was thinking the same thing about the bolts going through it. I may still sleeve and run bolts through that. I also don't have a factory cage. I made my own family style cage.


I think that with the rain gutter feet I have on my yakama rack and the same type of feet on the ack already, welding on some anlge to simulate gutter mounts might be the best option. My front halo is alos angled down by the windshield and about 3"s lower than the middle and back cross bars so welding on some angle higher in front and lower int he rear will level out the rack.

There are holes drilled in the roll bar from the factory,I don’t think that drilling holes the size you are talking about in the roll bar is going to cause a catastrophic failure of the roll bar, my concern would be the added leverage and stress you would be putting on the base of the roll bar in the event of a rollover by adding a luggage rack and gear. The factory roll bars were never designed to hold up in a high speed crash. This thread is going to be about as fun as asking "what tires should I buy?"

 

[delta21]

I have been thinking about this thread, safety issues are always touchy and subjective to the operator, I would be curious to see if there was a significant weakness caused by drilling the roll bar dead center with a 1/2in hole and then filling the hole with a grade 8 bolt and then try to bend the bar and see where the failure occurs. Any one have any ideas or expierence with this? Jeep wrangler roll bars have the rear seat belts mounted through them.

 

[slickrock]

I think I am going to do a bit of both becasue of the front clearance I have between the roll bar and the hard top sides. I am going to drill and sleeve the front part of the cage for the front feet and make a few cross bars at teh corner of the cage to basically bypass that section/support it and use angle for the middle and rear feet mounts. Going to pick up the stuff today and will see if I can get it done tonight. Most likely if I get a late start, it will take tonight and tomorrow night. But, I will post pictures.

I also think 1/2 grade 8 would be over kill for how much weight will be on the roof top carrier. Maybe the next size down in bolt or 1/4" grade 8. Most of the weight would be in the middle or on the middle foot and I will not over over a hundred pounds of gear up there. Just tent, clothes, and maybe a cooler full of food. (and can'r forget the fishing gear)

 

[Enigma]

If you really want to get fancy;

1. Find a section of pipe whose ID is slightly larger than the OD of the bolts you want to use.

2. Drill rollbar pipe to suit this new pipe you found for the through bolts.

3. Weld the smaller pipe into the roll bar and grind smooth.

4. Install your rack or whatever and bolt into place.

Now your roll bar is even stronger. Just make sure any bolt protrusions face away from you in the event of a roll/accident.

 

[Enigma]

If you really want to get fancy;

1. Find a section of pipe whose ID is slightly larger than the OD of the bolts you want to use.

2. Drill rollbar pipe to suit this new pipe you found for the through bolts.

3. Weld the smaller pipe into the roll bar and grind smooth.

4. Install your rack or whatever and bolt into place.

Now your roll bar is even stronger. Just make sure any bolt protrusions face away from you in the event of a roll/accident.

 

[Brian in Oregon]

Can you please pm a picture. I am looking for a way to mount the long seats and the cage is on the way.

Thanks.

My bad. Upon closer examination, the seat front is bolted to a nut welded into the rollbar itself.

The rear of the seat I knew attached to the tub with a long bolt and a spacer.

You can see the tabs welded to the rollbar. They are simply a long piece of flat stock welded on both sides where they lay across the tube. These may have been for the short seats and seat belts.

Still, this gives you an idea of how welded on tabs can be made to work.

Note that in this particular setup, the seat is not exactly parallel to the tub wall. It's skews slightly. It's really not noticeable, and I didn't even notice until I was making some measurements one day.

SOR sold this rollbar set, but it's been discontinued for a few years now.