Bogs down under medium throttle - Solved (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jan 11, 2019
Threads
31
Messages
431
Location
Sacramento
Scroll to the end of the post for the TLDR version.

This is a 1997 FJ80 with 191k and maintenance being up to date, with no known issues with the engine or transmission. This was really weird. I went on a pretty long and rough fire trail for about 5 miles, nothing that was too extreme. I’ve probably averaged around 10mph. It was raining/light snow and outside temperature was around 45 degrees F. I’ve kept my eyes close to the ScanGauge for engine temp and my Bosch transmission pan fluid temp gauge. Both were within normal conditions but the transmission was colder then usual, probably due to the weather. Last 10 minutes of the drive I’ve got on a paved road which lead to the main road, and it was snowy. The snow was extremely tacky, it was sticking to anything and my car was starting to get covered up with ice.

That road was pretty steel uphill garage at about 5k altitude. The wind was heading towards me as well. This is where the problems started, I couldn’t get the car above 35mph with foot all the way down. I assumed it was due to the conditions I was driving thru and the steel slope.

After turning on the main road, I started to go downhill but I’ve noticed my car was hesitating. It did not want to get above 1500rpm and was severely bogging down. If I was to accelerate it would get to couple hundred rpm and that start to bog down to a crawl. Only way I could get momentum is to floor it after which I would kick in high gear and accelerate until it switches to the lower gear and start to bog down. It would do this in L,2nd,D and R gears. Since the first symptom, I’ve checked my transmission fluid [which was full but cold], and I’ve had my eyes on the trans gauge which was now reading below 100F. I could rev the engine up in neutral no problem. I’ve stopped and tried to put the car in park it didn’t want to go until I made multiple attempts [i suspect the reason is due to being packed with snow/ice]. I’ve hopped out to inspect for physical damage [none that I could find], and check fluid [full]. The fluid was cold to the touch. I’ve noticed the underbody of my truck was stuffed with snow, literally snow and ice blocks everywhere, on top and under transmission, on the side, in the axle springs, packed on top of axles, everywhere.
67088C0F-22B6-4720-A58C-C2F209F0A7CE.jpeg

The only thing I could think of is that the transmission was literally too cold? Ive sat for 15min to try and let the truck warm up (it’s still very cold and raining/snowing) outside, but it did not fix the problem. After limping it to the closest parking lot (primarily downhill, which it could speed up past 30mph), the issues remained and I had to keep flooring it periodically for it to kick into a different gear and accelerate before it would bog down. Once we reached the parking lot the snow was still there but slowly melting, all the fluids were still ok and I didn’t see any physical damage. After letting the car warm up for 30min the symptoms didn’t appear to improve at first. I was able to get it home by flooring it to get up to 50mph and then I was able to coast home. After the drive ( 2 hours), my transmission seem to act better but it 100%.

Here are my theories,
1) burned a gear up by going up the slope too long and potentially by being in the same gear thru the fire trail
2) fluid not able to circulate due to freezing?
3) some king of mechanical damage inside which seem to cure itself after?

This was the weirdest thing I’ve ever experienced, if anyone has any input please let me know. Thanks


[QUOTE]Solution- I found a thread that which had a similar power loss issue. They had water in the O2 connectors. I took them apart and they still had moisture in them after a couple of days. After taking out the inserts , I blasted them with electronics cleaner and loaded them up with a dielectric grease. This has seemed to fix the problem for now.[/QUOTE]

I had the symptoms repeat themselves after a quick drive when the car was cold. I believe I had a couple of gremlins together but my guess right now is that it’s O2 sensor related as I believe it gets better as the engine warms up. My downstream sensor was also reading 9.4ohm resistance compared to upstream one at 13.4ohm
.

If you have a loss of power problem, such as the truck bogs down and misfires only under medium throttle and under load, but goes fine if you floor it, and doesn’t have the symptoms in neutral, check for moisture in the O2 sensors as well as their resistance values. Replacing my O2 sensors with lower resistance values has fixed the issue so far.
 
Last edited:
It will have nothing to do with the transmission fluid being cold, so you can scratch that one off the list.

Mechanical damage inside the tranny will not (can not) magically cure/repair itself...so that's a 'nope' too.

With the transmission in Park or Neutral....can you freely rev the engine above 3500 rpm?

The A343F transmission is pretty reliable, if it has had good service in the past...I would be surprised if the transmission was causing an issue (but possible).

Sounds more like a seized/failing VC in the T-case.
 
It will have nothing to do with the transmission fluid being cold, so you can scratch that one off the list.

Mechanical damage inside the tranny will not (can not) magically cure/repair itself...so that's a 'nope' too.

With the transmission in Park or Neutral....can you freely rev the engine above 3500 rpm?

The A343F transmission is pretty reliable, if it has had good service in the past...I would be surprised if the transmission was causing an issue (but possible).

Sounds more like a seized/failing VC in the T-case.
Yes engine can be freely rev past 3500 rpm. When flooring to get to speed, it could rev past 4K easy.

I forgot to mention that it did feel little *jerky* to me. I would image it would feel close to torque converting locking/unlocking
 
45 degrees is not cold. Slushy snow under your rig will not cool a tranny to any degree worth mentioning. A 5 mile fire road is not a long way to run in low range, in one gear, at low speed. I operate my '80s at significantly subzero (-20 and below) routinely every winter. I run them in deep snow for dozens of miles sometimes, in low range for lots more than that. Lots of people do. Nothing unusual or out of tasking parameters for the rig in that. The snow and ice packed under your rig looks unremarkable. None of the conditions you mention would have any effect on your transmission. The symptoms do not sound like tranny problems either.

Sounds like you have a loss of power situation to me. As a pure wild ass guess, check to see if you got water in the distributor via the vent holes or if it is simply wet spark plug connections.

Possible fuel delivery problems. This will generally not cause any codes, will let the engine rev freely with no load but will kill power. Unrelated to the environmental conditions.

Mark...
 
I've had something similar on a different vehicle with the throttle position sensor connector getting wet. I would have to mash the throttle to get it to finally shift. That's what it sounds like to me, is that you have wet wiring, especially if it magically fixes itself. You have no codes though?
 
Sounds like you have a loss of power situation to me. As a pure wild ass guess, check to see if you got water in the distributor via the vent holes or if it is simply wet spark plug connections.

Possible fuel delivery problems. This will generally not cause any codes, will let the engine rev freely with no load but will kill power. Unrelated to the environmental conditions.

Mark...
Distributor and the engine bay are and were dry thru my trip. I will double check the wiring.
I drove the truck again and hopefully I can give more details. The problem feel intermittent.Sometimes when I would accelerate, it would be fine. Other times it feels like it’s almost like bound up. image Steeping on gas and feeling the someone put the parking brake on. Driving with part throttle is doable but if you put your foot down, it bogs, the rpms don’t raise(maybe even lower) and truck slows down. Think as if you were to step on the gas (let’s say 50% throttle), and someone puts the parking brake on, or does a brake stand. I feel like it wants to go but it’s almost like the brakes are on (brakes are not engaged lol). I recorded a video .
 
Last edited:
I've had something similar on a different vehicle with the throttle position sensor connector getting wet. I would have to mash the throttle to get it to finally shift. That's what it sounds like to me, is that you have wet wiring, especially if it magically fixes itself. You have no codes though?
No codes present, I've visually checked the wiring and everything seemed OK. My harness behind the EGR is also in a good shape.
 
Sure sounds like water in the Throttle Position Sensor. BTDT. Only way to know if your wiring harness is OK behind the EGR is to open up the cover and inspect each wire. We have seen more than one rig with wiring damage hidden inside the harness. Mine has been repaired twice even though it looked just fine. I am currently replacing the entire engine harness so I can be comfortable that it wont be a problem in the future. Hopefully.
 
I have cleaned the MAF and inspected the TPS. The TPS looked to be in a good shape. With the Scan gauge, my TPS Is 8 idling and around 80% wot. There was no water or dirt under distributor cap(was replaced recently).
Still have the same issue with no acceleration and I can hear a misfire if it bucks down, no check engine light or codes.
DE0EB665-0615-4297-A6F7-73D7BFCE7CC5.jpeg


I will note that after cleaning everything and the car sitting for couple days, it took very long to start and there was what seemed like a lot of smoke from exhaust, smelled like unburned fuel.
 
Last edited:
Spark plugs and Wires fairly recent (or old)?
 
Spark plugs and Wires fairly recent (or old)?
Spark plugs and wires fairly recent. They area was dry as well.

I found a thread that which had a similar power loss issue. They had water in the O2 connectors. I took them apart and they still had moisture in them after a couple of days. I took them apart, blasted them with electronics cleaner and loaded them up with a dielectric grease. This has seemed to fix the problem for now.
 
Spark plugs and wires fairly recent. They area was dry as well.

I found a thread that which had a similar power loss issue. They had water in the O2 connectors. I took them apart and they still had moisture in them after a couple of days. I took them apart, blasted them with electronics cleaner and loaded them up with a dielectric grease. This has seemed to fix the problem for now.

Thanks for the follow up. Would not have expected that...as the problem. Just happen to be getting ready to replace both the upstream and downstream O2 Sensors on my 80 series. Probably wouldn't hurt to apply a little Dielectric grease to the connectors when I do this.

DensoO2_1.jpg

Denso2 (2).jpg

Denso3 (2).jpg
 
After thinking I fixed the issue, I took the car on another quick drive this evening while the car was cold (under 120* coolant temp), unfortunately the symptoms appeared again. I have disconnected the 02 sensors and measured their resistance, my downstream sensor was at 9.4 ohm instead of 11-16 ohm. My upstream sensor is at 13.4ohm. After measuring them and verifying that I got all the moisture out, I have reset the ECU by disconnected the negative battery cable. Started the car and it ran fine, gave it few min to warm up (150*) and took it on another drive, during which it performed normal.

since this appears to be temp related as well, I think the O2 sensors needs to be replaced.

I tried testing the TPS by measuring resistances, but I do not have a vacuum pump. However my ohm reading without vacuum was an open circuit in any throttle position. I can still read TPS # on my ScanGauge so I think the vacuum is necessary to check the resistances.
 
IF the TPS is highly suspected...then it might be worth just replacing it (and adjusting new one). That way you confirm or eliminate that part as being the issue. It doesn't hurt to have a 'spare' TPS if that isn't the problem, though we don't want to just 'throw' parts at it.

I am a firm advocate for testing parts first (if easily done), but sometimes the cost of tooling approaches or exceeds the cost of a replacement part...so simply replacing can be the easier thing to do.

Intermittent troubles always seem to be the most difficult to track down. Hope you find your solution.

TPS 95 LC.jpg
 
If it was an electrical misfire, it would set the CEL and throw a code telling you which cylinder(s) misfired. Since there are no misfire codes, it is more likely a fuel problem. Checking the fuel trim can help point you to the problem.


I would bet it is a lean misfire based on the description. The FSM has a troubleshooting guide in the emissions section. I would start by checking the fuel pressure / fuel pump.
 
Hopefully this is going to try the final update. I’ve installed the new 02 sensors and (so far) I have not experienced the problem. I’ve only taken it on a short cold and warm drive. The downstream 02 sensor with the lower resistance value was also a Bosch unit, replaced at some point by the PO. I would suggest putting copper plates nuts and maybe a tad of antiseize on the exhaust studs, but we careful not to get any on the 02 sensor.
515A2389-C8C0-4437-9322-EAE79D17E12E.jpeg

8406C092-773C-48D1-99DA-7F8AF9C94BC6.jpeg
 
'Bosch' O2 sensors are known to have caused poor readings for some folks when used in the 80 series. Denso will be your better choice when replacing.

I had no trouble with either the nuts or studs when removing my O2 sensors...but I don't live in the 'rust belt'. I can imagine it might be an ordeal for some. Good time to chase the threads and install new exhaust nuts if you have time to 'plan' for the repair.

O2 sensor replace4.jpg

O2 sensor replacement8.jpg


Be sure to remove the old gasket and install a new one

O2 sensor replace1.jpg
O2 sensor replacement6.jpg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom