Bogging Down not downshifting to stay in powerband (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jun 1, 2017
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Location
New Braunfels, TX
Greetings,
I'm just needing direction as to what rabbit hole to follow. I have '97 with 253,000 miles. Recently it started not downshifting on approach of hill, or if I need to pass a vehicle on the road. No matter how much I smash on the accelerator it doesn't downshift to allow the RPM to climb up. There are no other shift issues. Under normal driving all shifts are smooth and appropriate up and down. While replacing the Pesky heater hose I, replaced the fuel filter, plugs and wires, old fuel lines and vapor canister.
The trans fluid looks good, no external trans leaks or abnormal sounds.

Should I start look at adjusting the kickdown cable or could it be shift solenoids causing this issue. I'm concerned messing with the kickdown cable adjustment as all my other shifts seem good. Although I may not have a clear understanding of the overall effect the kickdown cable plays. Hoping someone here has seen this before and guide down the path of revelation.

Thanks,
Brad
 
Do 97's have the ECT button on the dash? I've noticed my kickdowns are smarter and faster with the button depressed. Without, patience is the name of the game ... for myself and those behind me.
 
Do 97's have the ECT button on the dash? I've noticed my kickdowns are smarter and faster with the button depressed. Without, patience is the name of the game ... for myself and those behind me.
The ECT button on the later trucks is on the shifter console. That's my first guess as well. Also if you have a BHICKS dual cup holder (like many do) it covers that button and if it somehow got turned off you may not notice and shift points would change and power would feel less.
 
I have tried with the "pwr" button on and off and there is no change.
Have you verified the plug is connected under the console? It's probably fine but I had mine shake loose one time and took me forever to figure out what was going on. Once I looked under the console I found the switch was unplugged.
 
Also consider replacing your throttle cable if it's lost all its coating and is all sorts of rusty. Mine looked bad and I replaced it, and it fixed my cruise control issues.
 
Also consider replacing your throttle cable if it's lost all its coating and is all sorts of rusty. Mine looked bad and I replaced it, and it fixed my cruise control issues.
Looking at the cable it could use replacing, although cruise works well. My main issues is no matter how much I smash the accelerator it won't drop a gear. Thanks
 
Looking at the cable it could use replacing, although cruise works well. My main issues is no matter how much I smash the accelerator it won't drop a gear. Thanks
Is your kickdown cable adjusted properly and not broken?
 
It appears intact, but the cable itself is fairly loose. I'm going to take down to the barn and start getting a closer look at it this afternoon and then report back.

It needs to be tight or it will give you issues with the shifting
 
Looking at the cable it was a good 5 mm inside the rubber boot. I tighten to spec 1mm right outside of boot to start. Test drove and it did kick down twice which was better. Had to go to work so I'll have to finish Saturday. So I'm guessing that if I tighten too much it will kick down to often or soon?
 

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