Body mounts; poly vs. OEM rubber

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Spook50

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Has anyone gone from the OEM rubber body mount bushings to poly? Did it affect the ride at all? I want to replace my bushings, but if the poly is a harsher ride than rubber, I want to stick with the rubber. Just curious mostly. If the poly makes no difference I'll just order one of the 4Crawler kits along with a 1" body lift when the time comes.
 
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I was thinking of hydrolastic engine mounts at one time , but thought about the sudden stopping of the frame and the body just falling off. Sure would stop some of the diesel vibration.

VT
 
I got poly bushings for an fj80 on my 62 had to buy two kits actually to have enough of the right ones, yea those poly bushings have more vibration, the only benefit I can see from them is that they dont dryrot and crack like the stock rubber, FYI I bought those bushing kits at an A&A auto center
 
It looks like I might be SOL for new rubber bushings, unless I can figure out a way to use sections of boat rollers in place of rubber bushings and integrate that into a 1" body lift.

I'm assuming the thickness of new upper OEM rubber bushings (the ones that actually support the body that is) is identical for all the body mounts on a 60/62, so I don't have to worry about different length cuts of roller material. If a solution can be found to keep them from bulging out over time, that might be a feasable option actually.
 
Interesting idea

think hockey!

Drilled and milled hockey pucks?

Wouldn't that be up there with cutting up Molsen cans to make new sheet metal for all those rusty quarter panels? :flipoff2:

Its actually a brilliant idea, probably a hot more durable than the boat bumpers, and depending if you have BJ-xx probably gives you bragging points down at the rink!

Glenn in Tucson
(who doesn't know nuthing about that fancy ice skating with sticks and beatings)
 
Hockey pucks will work, but I suspect the cut to fit boat rollers are a much better plan. Even more so considering that I have seen multiple thicknesses in body mounts (perhaps because of age).

Donno, but I am fully happy with the boat rollers, a bit more work, but very inexpensive and seem to be pretty durable.
 
no milling, just drilling. The right diameter and a 1" lift. About a buck or two a piece
I'm pretty sure they'll handle the weather

Drilled and milled hockey pucks?

Wouldn't that be up there with cutting up Molsen cans to make new sheet metal for all those rusty quarter panels? :flipoff2:

Its actually a brilliant idea, probably a hot more durable than the boat bumpers, and depending if you have BJ-xx probably gives you bragging points down at the rink!

Glenn in Tucson
(who doesn't know nuthing about that fancy ice skating with sticks and beatings)
 
Depending on what solution lovetoski comes up with for his homemade body lift (and if he figures out a good replacement for the upper bushings), I'll either mimick what he does or cough up the $250 for poly bushings with the 1-inch "ultimate" lift blocks and standard hardware and then order the nuts and bolts separetely from tacoma Screw or McMaster-Carr.

Holding off to see what ol' boy comes up with :D
 
no milling, just drilling. The right diameter and a 1" lift. About a buck or two a piece
I'm pretty sure they'll handle the weather

in addition to the stock mounts or in place of?
 
in addition to the stock mounts or in place of?

Looks like in addition to. A regulation puck is 1" thick and 3" diameter. That might not easily work due to some locations on a 60 series body having a fairly tight fit. IIRC someone a while back said the 2.5" diameter "ultimate" lift blocks from roger Brown were the largest that would fit in some spots.

But even if the 3" size of a puck would fit in all spots, I'd be back to either trying to source some rubber bushings or some poly ones that would fit.
 
Exactly, and some of the bushings are significantly smaller in diameter than a hockey puck is.

Not a replacement, but an add-on.
 
I would say stay with rubber. Wont transmit the frame vibration to the cab as much as anything else on the market.
 
I would say stay with rubber. Wont transmit the frame vibration to the cab as much as anything else on the market.

That was my first preference, but IIRC alot of the upper rubber bushings are NLA. So I might be stuck with going poly if I can't find a feasable substitute.
 
I did Rodger Brown's (4crawler) full poly kit for the body lift and body mounts and have been pleased. I have to say that the truck feels "tighter" now but that may just be my mind playing tricks on me. I am going poly on the 40 I am restoring as well, it just seems like the best option to me.
 
I did Rodger Brown's (4crawler) full poly kit for the body lift and body mounts and have been pleased. I have to say that the truck feels "tighter" now but that may just be my mind playing tricks on me. I am going poly on the 40 I am restoring as well, it just seems like the best option to me.

Do you remember what combination of small, medium, and large upper poly bushings you had to order?
 
I used them as a 1" lift in two trucks and as a replacement in one. I also used them to mount the bed of a 45. Im the case of the 45 I used a hole saw to reduce the diameter to look more stock. You end up with a centered pilot hole that way.
Easy way for those without a lathe

in addition to the stock mounts or in place of?
 

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