truthdetector
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #21
Finally got the engine torn down. Everything seems to be in great shape as far as I can tell (I'm by no means an expert). First round of parts off to the machine shop.
1997 Restoration (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter truthdetector
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
truthdetector
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #22
Status update describing the last few months of progress. It's slow going, with only a few evenings of work here and there.
Body on a stand so we can move it around out of the way while we work on other things.
Head is back from machine shop after being fully serviced. (Sorry, no pic of that at the moment)
Block came back from the shop cleaned (mild detergent bath, no acid) with cylinders honed.
Lots of wire wheeling to knock off the loose rust and I sprayed it with Eastwood's rust converter, let it dry, then hit it with the wire wheel again and cleaned it off with brake-kleen.
Eastwood's gray hi-temp 2-part ceramic primer.
Eastwood's high-temp gloss black 2-part ceramic paint:
I'll have to get better pics of the block with the tape removed.
Body on a stand so we can move it around out of the way while we work on other things.
Head is back from machine shop after being fully serviced. (Sorry, no pic of that at the moment)
Block came back from the shop cleaned (mild detergent bath, no acid) with cylinders honed.
Lots of wire wheeling to knock off the loose rust and I sprayed it with Eastwood's rust converter, let it dry, then hit it with the wire wheel again and cleaned it off with brake-kleen.
Eastwood's gray hi-temp 2-part ceramic primer.
Eastwood's high-temp gloss black 2-part ceramic paint:
I'll have to get better pics of the block with the tape removed.
truthdetector
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #23
Transmission picked up and destined for Level Ten in New Jersey for their bulletproof Toyota transmission rebuild. I'm not getting it built for 500HP, just a daily-driver rebuild with some standard upgrades that they do - I'm not sure of the details, sorry. So far, they have been super easy to work with and arranged for freight pickup once I had it on a pallet. Can't wait to see what it looks like when it comes back.
truthdetector
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #24
Shifting focus away from engine for now because we want to get the chassis painted and re-assembled.
I was originally going to use POR-15 on the frame, but there really isn't enough rust to warrant using that product. Since we'll clean up all the rust with a needle-scaler and sanding pads, I'll just hit any remaining visible rust with the Eastwood rust converter, and then prime and paint the frame using some sort of enamel that I haven't selected yet. For a truck that lived in the Indianapolis area all its life, the frame rust is not bad at all. Plenty of rusty bolts, but the important stuff is in great shape.
Messy work, but it will be worth it. Looking forward to posting pics of the chassis after painting and re-assembly.
Going to send out control arms and sway bars for strip and powder coat to save a little time/hassle while we focus on doing the frame and axle housings by hand.
Ordered all new, OEM shocks/bushings/bolts/nuts from oemgenuineparts.com and eBay seller TripleCreations out of Dubai.
Bummed to discover that I can't get OEM rear springs, so I'm trying to decide on aftermarket. Currently leaning toward Dobinsons, but I need to do more research on which options will work for me because I haven't yet decided if I'm going to add an aux fuel tank, nor do I have any idea what front and rear bumper setups I'm going to use. Probably going to put the original springs in there for now and get the appropriate ones once I know more what the final build will look like.
Plan is to drop the body back on the chassis and send it off for paint this winter. Was originally going to try to roll that body on the body stand onto a trailer and haul it to the body shop, but we could not figure out a safe way to do it. I couldn't imagine that body staying on that stand while bouncing down the highway so we decided to re-arrange our sequence and knock out the chassis so the body can be safely transported.
While it is away for paint, we'll resume with the engine re-assembly.
I was originally going to use POR-15 on the frame, but there really isn't enough rust to warrant using that product. Since we'll clean up all the rust with a needle-scaler and sanding pads, I'll just hit any remaining visible rust with the Eastwood rust converter, and then prime and paint the frame using some sort of enamel that I haven't selected yet. For a truck that lived in the Indianapolis area all its life, the frame rust is not bad at all. Plenty of rusty bolts, but the important stuff is in great shape.
Messy work, but it will be worth it. Looking forward to posting pics of the chassis after painting and re-assembly.
Going to send out control arms and sway bars for strip and powder coat to save a little time/hassle while we focus on doing the frame and axle housings by hand.
Ordered all new, OEM shocks/bushings/bolts/nuts from oemgenuineparts.com and eBay seller TripleCreations out of Dubai.
Bummed to discover that I can't get OEM rear springs, so I'm trying to decide on aftermarket. Currently leaning toward Dobinsons, but I need to do more research on which options will work for me because I haven't yet decided if I'm going to add an aux fuel tank, nor do I have any idea what front and rear bumper setups I'm going to use. Probably going to put the original springs in there for now and get the appropriate ones once I know more what the final build will look like.
Plan is to drop the body back on the chassis and send it off for paint this winter. Was originally going to try to roll that body on the body stand onto a trailer and haul it to the body shop, but we could not figure out a safe way to do it. I couldn't imagine that body staying on that stand while bouncing down the highway so we decided to re-arrange our sequence and knock out the chassis so the body can be safely transported.
While it is away for paint, we'll resume with the engine re-assembly.
I like the lift you have in your garage, very handy. Could you rent a flat trailer (U-Haul) to transport the body and get creative as far as securing it? Good luck with your project.
truthdetector
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #26
Thanks! It’s actually my buddy’s garage. He just built his retirement home and made sure to outfit a shop. He generously offered that I could do a project in there, otherwise I would not be able to do this because I don’t have the facilities.
We talked about various options like dropping the body onto a flat trailer, but the body shop said they wouldn’t be able to work with it like that. So then we got the stand and realized that was not going to be a good way to transport it - just handy around the shop.
That’s when we decided to just get the chassis done and we can much more easily/safely transport the rig without the drivetrain to the body shop. They’ll still be able to paint in the engine bay and under the cabin. It’s the best of both worlds. At least I hope.
I was reading the level 10 tranny shop, I have beat the crap out of mine, it has been hooked to a Cummins 6bt for 85K and I have pulled several F450's and a 10 wheeler out of mud, I believe the trans it's self is already bullet proof
Yeah it’s likely LVL10 will just do a rebuild with new clutches and steels and maybe a shift kit and call it a built trans. The only shop I know of actually changing hard parts is ATF Speed.
davidp14
SILVER Star
Im impressed just by the workshop you have, even if it's not yours. Much less the amount of work you've put into this cruiser.
Happily following along.
Happily following along.
truthdetector
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #30
Yeah, his shop is awesome. By the time we're done, we should have a pretty complete set of tools and equipment to work on the next project - especially if the next project were to be a Toyota.
I intend for this Land Cruiser to be mine forever and babied for the rest of its life, hence the full-on restoration approach. No expense spared, etc. An investment in my happiness and pride.
We just started talking about going in together on the next project with the intent to sell. Not sure yet what vehicle it will be, but as I'm learning with the approach I'm taking with my 80, it can't be this level of replacing/refurbishing every single thing or else we'd lose our shirts. He mentioned possibly a Jeep since there are lots of people into that too. Could be anything really, but I definitely wouldn't be sad to do another Toyota.
The only issue with galvanizing is if you’re doing major repairs you can’t weld to it. This doesn’t look like a build for hardcore use so I doubt it will be a problem.
truthdetector
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #32
True - not a build for hardcore use. Appreciate the suggestions, but I think manual frame restoration is going to work in this case.
truthdetector
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #33
Today we went at the frame with a needle scaler. I can't believe how much this tool is helping to properly prep it for proper coating. Wire wheel and sanding pads didn't touch a lot of what appeared to be solid factory finish, but the needle scaler removed so much stuff that would have definitely been an issue down the road. Bear with me if you already knew this - I'm learning as I go along.
Sorry no before/afters, but here are a couple of pics after de-scaling:
First pic above shows de-scaling+wire wheel, second pic is just de-scaling.
Sorry no before/afters, but here are a couple of pics after de-scaling:
First pic above shows de-scaling+wire wheel, second pic is just de-scaling.
truthdetector
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #34
Now some bad news. The rear cross-member with the four bolt holes is toast. It's the only part of the frame where rust caused catastrophic damage.
The meaty part of where those threads used to be is gone.
We talked about the idea of sliding a 3/8" piece of metal in through the side and figured out where we would be able to weld it from behind via some holes inside the frame. Then, we would cut out a rectangle from the outside of the frame and weld in a new skin with through-holes and try to re-create the original threads in the new inner piece.
Or...when I decide on the aux fuel tank, which requires me to get a new bumper to hold the spare, would the bumper cover this mess and make it a non-issue?
Has anyone else seen this amount of rust damage specific to these bumper holes, and if so, what have you done?
The meaty part of where those threads used to be is gone.
We talked about the idea of sliding a 3/8" piece of metal in through the side and figured out where we would be able to weld it from behind via some holes inside the frame. Then, we would cut out a rectangle from the outside of the frame and weld in a new skin with through-holes and try to re-create the original threads in the new inner piece.
Or...when I decide on the aux fuel tank, which requires me to get a new bumper to hold the spare, would the bumper cover this mess and make it a non-issue?
Has anyone else seen this amount of rust damage specific to these bumper holes, and if so, what have you done?
hmm lots of people cut that whole thing out just for after market rear bumpers. if you really like having it, just wait someone has a saw out this weekend somewhere getting ready to cut it out.
Then you'd be silly not to coat the chassis with POR15 or similar. Particularly given where you are.
You'll never have another chance to coat it properly.
Forget about enamel spray paints. Most of them are garbage, short term prospect only
There's two products which are used in saltwater environments, and bridge / parking deck steel.
One is Sherwin Williams Macropoxy 646. It's a two part epoxy. It can be rolled on or sprayed. It comes in any color.
industrial.sherwin-williams.com
The other is Sherwin Williams Corothane mio aluminum. It has aluminum solids which apparently inhibit rust. I believe it requires a topcoat.
industrial.sherwin-williams.com
While both of these products are listed as industrial, you can go down and buy them from Sherwin Williams. The marcopoxy is $90 a gal retail, but it can be bought as low as $40 a gal with a commercial discount.
These two products are far, far superior to POR15 or any Eastwood product.
Excellent job with your truck!
One is Sherwin Williams Macropoxy 646. It's a two part epoxy. It can be rolled on or sprayed. It comes in any color.
Macropoxy® 646 Fast Cure | Sherwin-Williams
A two-component, high-solids, fast-drying polyamide epoxy mastic.
industrial.sherwin-williams.com
The other is Sherwin Williams Corothane mio aluminum. It has aluminum solids which apparently inhibit rust. I believe it requires a topcoat.
Corothane® I Mio-Aluminum | Sherwin-Williams
A single-component, moisture-curing, aluminum and micaceous iron oxide (MIO) filled urethane primer, intermediate coating or a finish coat.
industrial.sherwin-williams.com
While both of these products are listed as industrial, you can go down and buy them from Sherwin Williams. The marcopoxy is $90 a gal retail, but it can be bought as low as $40 a gal with a commercial discount.
These two products are far, far superior to POR15 or any Eastwood product.
Excellent job with your truck!
Macropoxy 646 is a great product and is "easy" to apply. Goes on thick and is very durable.There's two products which are used in saltwater environments, and bridge / parking deck steel.
One is Sherwin Williams Macropoxy 646. It's a two part epoxy. It can be rolled on or sprayed. It comes in any color.
Macropoxy® 646 Fast Cure | Sherwin-Williams
A two-component, high-solids, fast-drying polyamide epoxy mastic.
The other is Sherwin Williams Corothane mio aluminum. It has aluminum solids which apparently inhibit rust. I believe it requires a topcoat.
Corothane® I Mio-Aluminum | Sherwin-Williams
A single-component, moisture-curing, aluminum and micaceous iron oxide (MIO) filled urethane primer, intermediate coating or a finish coat.
While both of these products are listed as industrial, you can go down and buy them from Sherwin Williams. The marcopoxy is $90 a gal retail, but it can be bought as low as $40 a gal with a commercial discount.
These two products are far, far superior to POR15 or any Eastwood product.
Excellent job with your truck!
Make sure the surface is CLEAN of rust, debris, dust, grease and it will last a VERY long time!
truthdetector
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #39
Thanks a lot for the input. The Macropoxy looks interesting. Looking deeper into all of these options, I'm struggling to make a decision.
What would be your opinions if I took the frame in and had it coated with Line-X?
In any case, it is very clear that prep is by far the most important thing no matter what coatings are applied. I don't want anything secretly rusting underneath a pretty facade.
What would be your opinions if I took the frame in and had it coated with Line-X?
In any case, it is very clear that prep is by far the most important thing no matter what coatings are applied. I don't want anything secretly rusting underneath a pretty facade.
truthdetector
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #40
Scratch that. Just talked with the Line-X dude and he talked me out of it.
