Does anyone still actually make a set of 12mm body lift pucks? Not looking to get them made if I can buy them.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Body lift? (1 Viewer)
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Geez, that is so simple that it is genius. Nevermind, figured there was more to it than that.
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There is a thread on here where @spressomon gives some good details, just tried finding it but no luck. I'll keep searching around. You may also need longer bolts, but I'm not positive. I think anything bigger than 1/2" (~12mm) you start running into other problems with fan hitting the shroud and weird steering issuesGeez, that is so simple is genius. Nevermind, figured there was more to it than that.
Generally installation of a 12mm/1/2" nominal body lift on the UZJ100 doesn't require modification of the radiator mounts/fan shroud and/or the t-case shifter. From my install all body bolts had adequate threads to accommodate the 12mm/1/2" body lift pucks. I think 4 of the bolts ended up being just barely long enough. Loctite (242 minimum) or utilize the longer OEM body mount bolts from other body mount locations (IIRC there are 4 different lengths of body mount bolts on this platform).
Having said that, the rear most body mount bolts get rust corroded in short time due to their location relative to road debris that gets kicked up to their location from both front and rear tires, and need to be replaced anyway.
The "J" bolts, located between the 2nd and 3rd seat rows, offered enough adjustment/flex to accommodate the 12mm/1/2" pucks on my truck.
Easy enough to inspect your specific truck's body mount bolt threads to determine if the existing bolts have adequate length threads.
Having said that, the rear most body mount bolts get rust corroded in short time due to their location relative to road debris that gets kicked up to their location from both front and rear tires, and need to be replaced anyway.
The "J" bolts, located between the 2nd and 3rd seat rows, offered enough adjustment/flex to accommodate the 12mm/1/2" pucks on my truck.
Easy enough to inspect your specific truck's body mount bolt threads to determine if the existing bolts have adequate length threads.
Spesso- did you only lift 1/2"?
I am trying to decide if i want to do a body lift to help clear my 35s or if I am better off dropping back down to a 33.5" tire. FWIW, I am running OME 2.5" lift and 864's out back.
I am trying to decide if i want to do a body lift to help clear my 35s or if I am better off dropping back down to a 33.5" tire. FWIW, I am running OME 2.5" lift and 864's out back.
As always, spress delivers. Thank you sir
I originally started with the 12mm body lift but later fabbed the 1" BL set-up I currently run to gain additional front tire compression clearance as well as a little more compression clearance for the rear suspension for my <then>
baja/prerunner style off-road rally pretends .In answer to your tire size question: Always run the smallest tire you need; especially on the UZJ100 platform.
Also, would like to credit @wildsmith as I believe he was the first to install a body lift (1.6" IIRC) so he could run 36" swamper style tires.
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- #9
Thanks for the great advice! Is there a thread for your 1" body lift fab? Would like to know what mods are involved.I originally started with the 12mm body lift but later fabbed the 1" BL set-up I currently run to gain additional front tire compression clearance as well as a little more compression clearance for the rear suspension for my <then>
In answer to your tire size question: Always run the smallest tire you need; especially on the UZJ100 platform.
Also, would like to credit @wildsmith as I believe he was the first to install a body lift (1.6" IIRC) so he could run 36" swamper style tires.
I didn't do a full write up on the BL. I was fabbing and selling kits at the time...
I know @Layonnn had interference issues between his DT headers and the crush portion of the steering sector shaft with his 1" BL. Although clearance is tight I do not have the same interference issue with my 1" BL and DT headers.
The 1" BL is not a difficult project if you have a little fabricator spirit in you. To do it properly you need to "stretch" the radiator brackets...no big deal with a welder and metal saw. I didn't have any t-case shifter issues; however IIRC one guy had to adjust his t-case shifter throw post 1" BL to be able to shift between H/L.
Kinda like my the spressoFAB spressoAIR belt drive 10cfm air compressor kit for the 2UZ-FE (non vvti): Depending upon Toyota's build tolerances on the day a particular rig was made it could be an easy & direct bolt on kit or not so much. But that's what makes modding so much fun!
I know @Layonnn had interference issues between his DT headers and the crush portion of the steering sector shaft with his 1" BL. Although clearance is tight I do not have the same interference issue with my 1" BL and DT headers.
The 1" BL is not a difficult project if you have a little fabricator spirit in you. To do it properly you need to "stretch" the radiator brackets...no big deal with a welder and metal saw. I didn't have any t-case shifter issues; however IIRC one guy had to adjust his t-case shifter throw post 1" BL to be able to shift between H/L.
Kinda like my the spressoFAB spressoAIR belt drive 10cfm air compressor kit for the 2UZ-FE (non vvti): Depending upon Toyota's build tolerances on the day a particular rig was made it could be an easy & direct bolt on kit or not so much
. But that's what makes modding so much fun!
@spressomon
Dan, how much lift did you end up with overall? What size tire did you end up running? With the 1" BL did you gain full stuff at full lock? I have a block of 6061 T6 3" aluminum rod that I am going to have a machinist friend chop into hockey pucks for me, I am just trying to decide just how thick to cut them. I was leaning towards 1" but don't really want to jump on a slippery slope of linkages and steering issues. Thoughts?
Dan, how much lift did you end up with overall? What size tire did you end up running? With the 1" BL did you gain full stuff at full lock? I have a block of 6061 T6 3" aluminum rod that I am going to have a machinist friend chop into hockey pucks for me, I am just trying to decide just how thick to cut them. I was leaning towards 1" but don't really want to jump on a slippery slope of linkages and steering issues. Thoughts?
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- #12
12" x 24" x .5" black HDPE delivered for $25? I can live with that. Will be the maybe the cheapest mod I've made yet to my Cruiser!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JPHTPCI/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JPHTPCI/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I think I'm sitting at 20.5" in front now (minus 1" BL = 19.5" effective) so about 1-1/2" or so. Many would consider this too low but it works mobetta for me for all around. I have had it as high as 23" but that was only for HITR + Rincon, Poison/Crack, etc., then back down an inch or so when done with those trails. But CV longevity suffers (acute angle), torque steer is much more prominent, decreased track width, highway steering sucks due to more acute TR end angles and it places increased stress on the outer rack (inner TR).
For years I ran 285R75/18 (MT/R Kevlar, Toyo AT, AT2E) and although I liked the overall performance on pavement and easy-ish trails, the lack of side-wheel protection and narrower footprint left me wanting for better protection and performance on rougher trails. So that led me to my current Cooper SST MAXX in 305/70R18. I get a little tire to pinch weld rub at full/near full lock (no wheel spacers) but I think this is because I'm running ~3.75º caster which pushes the front wheel back. A little rub, especially on this platform, isn't necessarily a bad thing (there's only so much we can squeeze out of this IFS).
HTHs
Dan
I might recommend HDPE or similar over aluminum for the pucks. My aluminum pucks squeak as the body weight shifts around on top of the frame. I am thinking HDPE would not have the same issue.
Interesting, I hate squeeks so I will look into this, thanks for the heads up.
Did you ever pull the trigger? I am debating whether or not I should try and do a .5" BL before 100's in the hills this year...
Nope, I am all up in my front fenders and don't care to take the time for body lift.
I got the TrailTaylor 1inch body lift and I like the results.
Same. It's only been a few days, but I'm not sure how it would make any noise.
Curious if anyone else has found this true? I'd like to do a mild body lift and could do it in either material. Does AL really have a potential for squeaking? Are they not torqued down when installing and they just float?
