Body Lift Needed for 100 Series

[LandCruiserPhil]

IMO if you're going to run 35's on UZJ100 just go 1" or even 1.25" and be done with it. Radiator brackets need to be "stretched" and some rigs need the H/L t-case shifter to be adjusted. But rather than raise the front suspension for clearance, a body lift will preserve and pay dividends, in both the reliability & all things performance departments, in the all things CV and steering end angles.

The black UV resistant UHMW material I cut the pucks from for the 1" BL I've thoroughly tested (and used in the <then> kits I sold) are in perfect condition/shape without deformity.

Don't know why there is so much resistance for this much needed mod and BIG BANG FOR THE BUCK within the 100/470 crowd. Maybe less so today?

Thanks for the feedback.
I have a 1/2" UHMW BL from your thread a while back. Do you now feel its not worth doing for just a 1/2"? I think part of the crowd resistance on anything over 1/2" is dealing with the radiator, shifter, and such? The AHC will probably have more to deal with over 1/2", anyone?

 

[spressomon]

Thanks for the feedback.
I have a 1/2" UHMW BL from your thread a while back. Do you now feel its not worth doing for just a 1/2"? I think part of the crowd resistance on anything over 1/2" is dealing with the radiator, shifter, and such? The AHC will probably have more to deal with over 1/2", anyone?

12mm/1/2" nominal eliminates about 85% of tire rub/interference (pinch weld is flattened) except for big suspension compression hits in front (sans compression limiting bump stops ala non OEM): Good bang for the buck!

And, less gap at bumpers. And typically no t-case shifter adjustment, radiator drop, etc. Depending on the available threads on the OEM mounting bolts/hardware you may/may not need longer bolts.

No knowledge of anything AHC related and/or how a body lift might effect it.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

12mm/1/2" nominal eliminates about 85% of tire rub/interference (pinch weld is flattened) except for big suspension compression hits in front (sans compression limiting bump stops ala non OEM): Good bang for the buck!

And, less gap at bumpers. And typically no t-case shifter adjustment, radiator drop, etc. Depending on the available threads on the OEM mounting bolts/hardware you may/may not need longer bolts.

No knowledge of anything AHC related and/or how a body lift might effect it.

Solid input

Before I go down the BL road are you out of the BL business?

 

[MTKID]

Did anyone get instructions with theirs? I didn't and I'd love to see a set. Hoping to get my lift installed in the next couple weeks.

You probably already read through this thread in the FAQ’s, but just in case you didn’t see it...

How's your 100 Series Body Lift?

The one thing I overlooked was the two seemingly unnecessary bolts just behind the middle row. Removing them and covering the hole will keep you from scratching you head like I did trying to figure out why I couldn’t lift the body easily at the back.

Otherwise, I will be reaching out to 4crawler to put together my next one. Probably 2” similar to @r2m

 

[spressomon]

Solid input

Before I go down the BL road are you out of the BL business?

Yes I am out of the body lift biz.

 

[reznunt]

Thanks for the feedback.
I have a 1/2" UHMW BL from your thread a while back. Do you now feel its not worth doing for just a 1/2"? I think part of the crowd resistance on anything over 1/2" is dealing with the radiator, shifter, and such? The AHC will probably have more to deal with over 1/2", anyone?

If jamming pucks in there (without having to fiddle with this and extend that) is all it takes to net me 1/2" extra lift then I'd definitely be interested. I'm happy with the way it is now on 35's, but that extra 1/2" will probably eliminate that occasional rub and would probably be worth it (depending on the price). If you guys say plastic is GTG for the long haul, I'd be interested in those because they'd be cheaper.

If you put together a solid, complete kit and post up a clean/clear DIY install thread with pics, I think they'd sell.

 

[hoser]

I can't do a body lift because if my 100 is any taller, I can't get it in the garage. But I've always been intrigued with the idea of getting more up travel in the front by raising the bumpstops... but more fender lip clearance would be needed (body lift or fender trimming).

 

[jackhossross]

I’ve asked this before elsewhere, but for a 1998 Land Cruiser - what more is needed other than this Trail Tailor kit?

Trail Tailor 100 Series BL

 

[MTKID]

I’ve asked this before elsewhere, but for a 1998 Land Cruiser - what more is needed other than this Trail Tailor kit?

Trail Tailor 100 Series BL

That looks like everything that came in a similar kit I installed on my 98’ quite a few years ago.

 

[jackhossross]

That looks like everything that came in a similar kit I installed on my 98’ quite a few years ago.

With a 1" lift, no need to fuss with steering/transmission/e-brake? Just drop the radiator a with the supplied brackets?

 

[MTKID]

With a 1" lift, no need to fuss with steering/transmission/e-brake? Just drop the radiator a with the supplied brackets?

Yes, there were some steering shaft spacers that were provided by the other company’s kit. They were a pain to install under the dash and I think the instructions said that some vehicles didn’t need them. I did install them.

I recall a nut that could be loosened for the shifter, I think. You’re tuggin’ at my memory threads. I do recall that I had to push the shifter a little more firmly forward to engage P park.

I don’t think anything was needed for the parking brake.

I glanced at my build thread which apparently was never turned into a “build” thread by moderators but I didn’t share many details about the body lift.

Trail Tailor is pretty thorough. You might be able to ask him since it’s his kit.

 

[LandyOverLand]

With a 1" lift, no need to fuss with steering/transmission/e-brake? Just drop the radiator a with the supplied brackets?

Had to loosen steering coupler and relax it a bit, no extra parts though.
Loosened shift cable too, very easy.
Didn't do anything with the brakes

 

[jackhossross]

Had to loosen steering coupler and relax it a bit, no extra parts though.
Loosened shift cable too, very easy.
Didn't do anything with the brakes

Thanks!