Yeah, you probably don't have the same worries down in NC that we have up here.
The salt on the roads drives me half crazy. Right now I do the power wash every week on the frame, but year to year I can see it starting to get worse...
body and frame time
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Yeah, you probably don't have the same worries down in NC that we have up here.
The salt on the roads drives me half crazy. Right now I do the power wash every week on the frame, but year to year I can see it starting to get worse...
- Thread starter
- #42
We have more salt on the roads than snow sometimes. Now they use a salt brine that is even worse! I oil spray my vehicles by it is a loosing battle.
A couple of years ago I did do the frame with Eastwood Rust Converter. I used a wire brush (drill) on the frame and used their Metal Prep, then Ruster Converter and finished with a black paint cover. I admit that was my FIRST time dealing with rusty frames. I view it as TUITION because....
I did NOT have a good experience with the rusty converting nor the paint staying. Most of the crud I cleaned off the frame for this job was the Eastwood stuff. Enuf said
BUT I did use their internal Frame Coating. It comes with a long (2 ft) hose and it sprays in a 360 pattern. Stick it down holes in the frame and walk (crawl) the entire frame spraying this stuff. It is a green color so I learned to be careful in not having it come out other holes in passing.
Did it work? I dunno. I have not been in the frame before or since. I do have a probe camera with a 4 foot lead. I might try that and see what it looks like now.
link: www.eastwood.com/media/catalog/prod...b33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/p/i/pinternalfa.jpg
Thanks for the lead on the Fluid Film, might try some
Below is a pic of the Internal Frame Coating. Got it by googling that name.
dougbert
I did NOT have a good experience with the rusty converting nor the paint staying. Most of the crud I cleaned off the frame for this job was the Eastwood stuff. Enuf said
BUT I did use their internal Frame Coating. It comes with a long (2 ft) hose and it sprays in a 360 pattern. Stick it down holes in the frame and walk (crawl) the entire frame spraying this stuff. It is a green color so I learned to be careful in not having it come out other holes in passing.
Did it work? I dunno. I have not been in the frame before or since. I do have a probe camera with a 4 foot lead. I might try that and see what it looks like now.
link: www.eastwood.com/media/catalog/prod...b33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/p/i/pinternalfa.jpg
Thanks for the lead on the Fluid Film, might try some
Below is a pic of the Internal Frame Coating. Got it by googling that name.
dougbert
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Salt brine? A liquid? That sounds crazy. I would have thought that you all up in Canada would be so used to icy snow covered roads that you wouldn't bother using salt. Figured everyone pretty much has 4wd anyhow.
Down here, the localities usually go crazy with the salt the first half of the season, but by the end, they run out of money.
I like the idea of spraying on the Fluid Film. I have noticed, as you mention in an earlier post, that the front end of the frame is in better shape, since it is protected by all the oil leaks and such.
If you do get a good video of this, be sure to post it. It would be interesting to see what's going on in there after the treatment.
- Thread starter
- #46
They spray a salt brine on the road before the storm. Then ice and snow wont stick to the road as long as it doesn't get too cold, then the stuff doesn't work. But the spray coming up off of tires is very salty and rusts the cars faster. Population and traffic congestion in Toronto's daily commute means salt the roads or they play smash up derby because they won't slow down.
I know someone in the business and they are starting to use it now in the U.S. northern states as well.
I know someone in the business and they are starting to use it now in the U.S. northern states as well.
I will take a look this saturday. As for a video, I have not figured out how to do that. I have just used its little screen to look at things.
I looked up when I did the Internal frame stuff and it was August 1910, so 3.5 years. I look forward to taking a peek.
Also found someone else who wrote an article on it, it has before and after pics: https://sites.google.com/site/edanneberg/home/rust-products/rust-products/ew-interior-rust-spray
I did find the following from another website
quote:
I used the Easwood product above in the hard to reach sections of my B's sills. Before I commited to it I sprayed 1/2 of piece of scrap metal with it and then left it in the yard all winter. Snow and rain affected the uncoated metal as you would have expected. The coated half was almost as new after wiping away the dirt. Good stuff. I'm sold on it for hard to reach places.
PS: Allot goes a little ways so plan to buy more than you think you'll need.
endquote
http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2452676 post #7
I think I will reapply another series into the frame, and maybe other areas. Some other poster (on some site I can't find again) used it inside his cowl. He then used the 2 ft long nozzle with another can (after cleaning it somehow) and sprayed a covering paint over that after it dried for a day.
Another guy uses it EVERY YEAR on his pride and joy
Here is pic 1, of a frame on a Dodge by its restorer
Pic 2 is a BEFORE pic
Pic 3 is an AFTER pic of a rail
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The truck that I am swapping frame to is Canadian bj60 and it is a complete wreck underneath especially in the rear. Salt is a killer
Sounds like we all get affected by rust in the end...no one escapes. Have you looked to see if there is shop near you that can do an acid dip. How do you measure the trade-off on how far to go/spend trying to get a rust free frame?
Your BJ60 project sounds neat. Are you sticking with the 3B? Have you got a build thread going?
I have not looked for dipper. I doubt there is one here. More likely up north. I'm building mine for safety more than anything. Plus I hate golf n need a hobby...
. No thread yet but I have lots of pics to start one at some pointI have not looked for dipper. I doubt there is one here. More likely up north. I'm building mine for safety more than anything. Plus I hate golf n need a hobby...
Golf. That's hilarious. Actually, not that I'm a golfer, but it is a good feeling when you connect right. Same feeling for any hobby when you've done a good job, I suppose.
Yeah, you should start a build thread. I'm envious that you're doing a diesel build. That's where I'm going with my FJ60, just don't have the resources yet. That's why I'm so interested in keeping this frame in good shape. The frame is from the southwest and is really in good shape, but starting to see surface rust. My strategy is to fight the rust and keep the 2F running properly so that when the time comes, I can do a frame off diesel build.
Looking forward to the build thread, when you get around to it.
Cheers.
- Thread starter
- #52
most industrial galvanizers also have an acid dip tank. Expensive way to go overall, but the cost is in the galvanizing, the acid dip is not expensive if done at the same time.
Okay used the probe camera and looked into the frame of my FJ60.
There were some rust spots, but I deduce that they had not been covered by the Eastwood stuff when I did it. I saw more green paint than the rust, so I must have covered the majority of the internals of the frame. I could see that is it difficult to get complete coverage w/o being able to see inside. Therefore, multiple applications in different directions seem to be a good method to increase coverage.
I will acquire 3 or 4 cans of that stuff again and redo my internal frame and some of the enclosed cross pieces on the body - including the rear hatch.
Oh, the green paint had NO flaking that I could see, so it did better than the external Rust Converter. 3.5 years later and the frame internals look okay.
dougbert
There were some rust spots, but I deduce that they had not been covered by the Eastwood stuff when I did it. I saw more green paint than the rust, so I must have covered the majority of the internals of the frame. I could see that is it difficult to get complete coverage w/o being able to see inside. Therefore, multiple applications in different directions seem to be a good method to increase coverage.
I will acquire 3 or 4 cans of that stuff again and redo my internal frame and some of the enclosed cross pieces on the body - including the rear hatch.
Oh, the green paint had NO flaking that I could see, so it did better than the external Rust Converter. 3.5 years later and the frame internals look okay.
dougbert
A friend who restores muscle cars recommends NOT dipping the frame. He says he's heard that the acid can leach out long after the frame has been painted, and that the acid will ruin the new paint. Has anyone else had this experience?
how much paint will I need for an fj60 frame ? I plan on using chassis saver and using the eastwood internal frame spray listed above. I already bought the eastwood internal spray ... just wondering how much paint I will need for the rest of the frame brusing it on? One gallon?
Just to tag this onto this thread (...it doesn't answer the question above, but it nevertheless relevant to the thread and consideration of work to be done)... @Output Shaft recently posted info on using Organic Lineseed Oil as a non-toxic, apparently effective rust inhibitor.
See post #5 in the following thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rust-prevention.815813/
See post #5 in the following thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rust-prevention.815813/