Bobby (1 Viewer)

[majdomo]

The power steering pump gear can be reused but must be carefully removed.
Using a new gear is foolproof.

Absolutely. I asked them multiple times if it came with the gear, and was told “of course!” When looking for the part on my own (was thinking of doing this myself but just didn’t have time), I could only find the pump on its own.

I think maybe that’s the fix - just get the shop to buy a pump with the gear on it and have them eat the cost. Fn stupid.

 

[Tedward]

pump and gear sold separatly
getting the old one of must be done carefully if your going to reuse that gear on the new pump
using a puller to remove it might/probably nick it just enough to make it tick going round n round
if one sands or files the nick smooth it may be fine
putting the old or new gear on is easy. some folks impact gun it on and others use a torque wrench to seat it
you probably need just a new gear or to have the old one 'cleaned up'
if that is really the problem anyway

 

[majdomo]

putting the old or new gear on is easy. some folks impact gun it on and others use a torque wrench to seat it
you probably need just a new gear or to have the old one 'cleaned up'
if that is really the problem anyway

No concerns about how it’s mounted, distance from pump body to bottom of gear?

 

[Tedward]

it's all in the fsm but
If the nut holding the gear on is torqued properly the distance from body to bottom of gear is just right.
or you can measure whatever you like or count threads and go till it's right
I used a torque wrench and it measured exactly like the original and makes no sound

You can download an awesome searchable fsm from mud if you look for it
then you can teach the toyota tech or whomever how stuff is done

 

[majdomo]

Got it, have the FSM and searched on Mud. Will see where we end up.

Nothing else just irritating to have a shop do the work, but then have it messed up... like I can do that myself for free

 

[majdomo]

Shop called again today, tracked the racket it down to..... a faulty new PS pump.

New one on order, picking up (hopefully) Friday. Blah.

 

[majdomo]

Rig STILL in the shop. Shop checked over everything, reinstalled old pump and ticking noise went away. Vibration and ticking sound returned when the new pump was put back. Shop attempted to return PS pump to dealership where the part was purchased, but dealership wanted their techs to check out the shop’s work before processing a return and exchange. Just a thought, why would the dealership want to spend an hour of their tech’s time checking work done by another shop, only to process the return of a $250 part? Toyota being a problem about defective part returns? Another thought - this takes 4 working days to figure out?

So... sad part is that we are cruiserless for the holiday weekend, which is bull$hit but here we are. Many reassurances all around that this is an odd and rare occurrence, never happens, we do lots of business buying parts from that dealer, etc. Sure thing, ok. No chance it’ll be back home until middle of next week at the earliest. Frustrating.

 

[majdomo]

Rig is back! Ticking noise still very faint but this could easily be valve clatter rather than the pump. I have the old pump in the garage, may want to just rebuild it myself as a spare. Oil leak from RMS is gone. Kept tabs on temps on the way home, 194 degrees with air running. So that’s all good.

Swapped out the radio for the 1-DIN unit I’ve had on my workbench for the last 3 weeks, finally! Looks better than the 2-DIN I had before. Rig is very dusty and full of ash from all the fires in the San Gabriel valley - the shop was close to one of the fires, and it was parked out front for part of the day today.

Looking for more baseline projects, maybe birfs and seals are next.

 

[majdomo]

After driving the rig for the last week or so, I'm really noticing how bad the engine mounts transmit NVH into the cabin especially at startup. Put the car in drive, applied the parking and foot brake, and hit the gas with the hood open to watch the engine, and saw it torque / deflect about an inch or so, suggesting that the driver's side is smoked. Same test in reverse, passenger side looks fine but I'm replacing it anyway. Parts on order, note to self to torque the bolts to 54 ft-lbs per the FSM.

Search through the 80 section on the site suggests a 2x4 under the oil pan to distribute the load on a floor jack (after removing the fan shroud) should do it. This is consistent with how I did this job on the 2002, so feeling relatively comfortable with this approach. Granted, the M10 engine weighs probably less than half of the 1FZ, but whatever.

 

[baldilocks]

Situate the floor jack under the oil pan such that lifting will favor more the side of the mount you are replacing. Simply jacking the front of the engine straight up won’t net you max space at the motor mount before the valve cover contacts the fire wall.

When I did this as PM, I also replaced the mount under the transmission which is also called a motor mount by Toyota.

 

[majdomo]

Situate the floor jack under the oil pan such that lifting will favor more the side of the mount you are replacing. Simply jacking the front of the engine straight up won’t net you max space at the motor mount before the valve cover contacts the fire wall.

When I did this as PM, I also replaced the mount under the transmission which is also called a motor mount by Toyota.

Thank you sir, always appreciate your input!! I looked at the one under the trans, seems ok for the time being but will chase that as a second step. It'll all get done, more a question of time and money as always. Was going to do birfs and bearings next as PM, but this seems more immediate.

 

[majdomo]

Garnishes and motor mounts!

When I bought the truck, the front sunroof “garnish” (really a plastic trim piece) was a toasty cracked mess. I bought the front one thinking it would be enough, but as soon as I tried to remove the side pieces, not surprisingly those cracked as well. Just waited for enough items to order from the dealer and got them all at once.

Dealer parts haul:

Passenger side, while removing the side trim bits:

The little plastic tabs snap into these holes in the sunroof frame. Make sure to line them up just right before pressing in, require a bit of pressure that feels like it’ll make your expensive plastic bits snap:

Here’s what came out of the car, all crispy and not gray like the new ones:

Important note - the parts diagram on the dealer site that I used didn’t show a LH and RH side for the side garnishes, but they ARE different. Of course, I ended up purchasing 2 RH side parts, so have a trip BACK to exchange sometime over the weekend. Maybe after I’m done putting in those motor mounts.

Also - if anyone needs to rent that nice blue crank pulley tool...

 

[baldilocks]

Are you on a quest?

 

[majdomo]

Are you on a quest?

Absolutely!! Nothing gets me going like MOTOR MOUNTS. No, really. It makes a huge difference.

Actually since this is my daily I get OCD about the little things like this. You should have seen me last weekend, out in the smoke and horrible air yanking the driver's side seat out so I could cinch down the bolts holding the motor to the frame. I ended up stripping one of the gears on the motor (because ham-fisted dingbat), have gears on order from Gamviti (sp?) so get to do that project when those show up. It's not busted, it works, but not perfect like it did / should.

 

[majdomo]

Welp, these were toast.

New ones are installed and MUCH better than these. Nice and smoooooth.

More little projects. Needed new hood struts and wipers, from Rockauto:

Also - yes, I know this is generally verboten around Mud - but got an RS3000 remote working with the car. Going OEM largely because the aftermarket remote system install was garbage.

Also received these from Gamviti, will be installing tomorrow along with aftermarket remote root canal.

 

[NorCalFJ100]

Bobby is coming around quite nicely! I appreciate all your OCD!

 

[majdomo]

More little projects today. Gamviti gears installed, here’s the old one. I followed the OTRAMM procedure and worked out just great, took all of about 10 minutes start to finish. The rest of the gear doesn’t look horrible, checked the gear on the other side of the track and looked fine for now. Holding on to parts for another day.

Next up - aftermarket remote root canal. Here’s what the horrid mess looked like under the dash:

I’ll certainly hand it to the installer, though - whoever it was didn’t cut harness wires, just spliced and soldered into the existing lines after stripping insulation. Made it much easier to just cut the aftermarket wires and patch up the stripped insulation. Here’s the whole mess yanked out:

And footwell, cleaned up (finally!). Only had one pucker-up moment, taking a relay out of the live line to the ignition, but ended up being no big deal, spliced two wires back together to call it good.

Last but not least, found a small coolant leak on the little hose that comes off the neck of the rad cap to the overflow tank. That was basically the only clamp I didn’t replace, which has now been replaced. Left a small mess on my driveway, but at least alerted me to the issue. Everything else is so far so good.

Drove it a bunch today, I have a cricket chirp in the dash I need to chase down, and the beeper for the remote needs to be replaced. Projects for another day.

 

[majdomo]

RS3000 project finished out. First, lights are supposed to flash when arming / disarming, but upon further investigation found that the original installer spliced the alarm harness ground to the wrong wire, suggesting that the lights flashing never did work (!!). Re-spliced to the correct wire yesterday, and that was all fixed up. Second, piezo beeper was dead. Purchased replacement on Amazon for $22 and wired it up this evening. Fully functioning alarm in effect!

Finally had a chance to look at the inspection port on the knuckles (well, just the driver’s side so far) - no soup and looks like they used a nice dark gray moly grease in there. I’ll check the passenger’s side over the weekend, but assuming all is good there, will move that project down the baselining list assuming it’s still within the service interval (if there is one - will check FSM. I have receipts showing that they were repacked at about 160K miles, am at 218K now.

EDIT - search Mud, find answer, 60K miles before knuckle rebuild and repack. Moving that back up the list.....

 

[majdomo]

Chased down a wiring gremlin today - the driver’s side rear door light doesn’t work when that door is open. Found that the connections spliced down near the B pillar were broken, so reconnected those, which allowed it to finally work when the passenger side is open, but not when the driver’s side door is open. Ran down all the connections all the way back to where the switch is spliced into the harness for the ground, which looked good. Think finally the problem is the switch, after all the pulling apart of wires and re-electrical taping things back up.

Ordered that, along with new OEM shocks for all 4 corners, as I’m probably not lifting it any time soon and the YL wants a smoother ride...

 

[majdomo]

OEM goodness... installed rear passenger door switch, no change. So it’s a ground fault at the harness. Blah.

Completely unrelated, that Mahle filter is for the E30. I installed a new foam pad on the underside of the hood over the weekend, that I’d bought like a year ago from FCP. Totally forgot ordering the oil filter. Nice little bonus.