Blue Seas ACR failure? (1 Viewer)

[Irish Reiver]

It's not quite as simple as swapping out one solution for another. Much depends on the type of battery your second battery is (or maybe will be in the future). The alternator on the 80 series isn't particularly smart which means it is only any good at charging flooded lead/acid battery starter battery. The relatively small amount of energy that is used to start the engine is easily replaced quickly by the alternator. However if your second battery is a deep cycle marine type battery that often is used when the engine is not running it will take ages for the alternator to charge it. Flooded batteries are not efficient at absorbing charging current. That said, I used a blueseas ACR system for years which worked well as I was camping during the night and driving during the day. I was very conscious that in winter months were the driving day was shorter, the battery rarely made it through the night (mostly running a fridge).
Depending on your application, investing in a Redarc BCDC1220 would be a much better solution. It has the smarts to adjust charging to match the battery type and can also handle a solar input if you choose. It is more expensive than the ACR but no need for AWG0 cable runs between the batteries. Also switching to a AGM type battery will give significantly more available stored power. The AGM batteries have a much reduced internal resistance so they accept a higher charge more efficiently (about x5 more efficient).
Lots to think about.

 

[eric90503]

It's not quite as simple as swapping out one solution for another. Much depends on the type of battery your second battery is (or maybe will be in the future). The alternator on the 80 series isn't particularly smart which means it is only any good at charging flooded lead/acid battery starter battery. The relatively small amount of energy that is used to start the engine is easily replaced quickly by the alternator. However if your second battery is a deep cycle marine type battery that often is used when the engine is not running it will take ages for the alternator to charge it. Flooded batteries are not efficient at absorbing charging current. That said, I used a blueseas ACR system for years which worked well as I was camping during the night and driving during the day. I was very conscious that in winter months were the driving day was shorter, the battery rarely made it through the night (mostly running a fridge).
Depending on your application, investing in a Redarc BCDC1220 would be a much better solution. It has the smarts to adjust charging to match the battery type and can also handle a solar input if you choose. It is more expensive than the ACR but no need for AWG0 cable runs between the batteries. Also switching to a AGM type battery will give significantly more available stored power. The AGM batteries have a much reduced internal resistance so they accept a higher charge more efficiently (about x5 more efficient).
Lots to think about.

Much thanks for your input and caveats. Luckily I was already running (x2) group 31 AGM's. A NorthStar for the main and an Odyssey for the Aux. I feel the Nat Luna worked ok as I had nothing to compare it to, but every since I installed it, it had parasitic draw. Enough that without a trickle charger it would draw down to nothing. Plus the clicking of the solenoid was a bit annoying because it could be heard even from inside the house. I'm sure it's user error (install) but I followed the instructions per Nat Luna. I ended ripping everything out to start fresh.

Thank you for mentioning the alternator. I'm currently in the middle of installing the 150A Sequoia alt w/ Bills bracket. Just trying to figure out which system to go with. I never thought about going solar as my fridge would last about 2 days. I don't have the luxury due to work schedules to do more than 2 days, . I usually start my motor and go explore for 15-20 min. But my buddies in the end have all convinced me to go solar. I'm down with that just for the pure fact that I don't have to run a stinger to power the trickle charger!

Isn't the Redarc BCDC 1220 different than the ACR? as in different functions? My apologies 12V, I'm still trying to wrap my head around it. If it is I wonder if it will integrate w/the ACR?
That was the direction I was going to go. All RedArc and pay the premium prices they were commanding. However, my buddy (another former industry guy) was talking to RedArc at SEMA and his setup which basically consists of this Amazon product ASIN B0058SGDFK and another charge controller that I can't remember. The guys at Redarc basically said it's the same idea and does the same.
Not as sexy looking but IDK.

Yes Lots to think about. But after 3yrs of having my lights and crap sitting on the shelf I need to get to it!!

 

[93yotasr5]

So I have had my dual battery set up for almost two years now.I’m running the 7610. I’ve never had an issue running the little accessories off of the auxiliary battery (CB radio, lights, aux fan). I have since wired a cig lighter socket in the rear of the truck to run my Iceco JP50 fridge. The fridge ran for a little over a day before giving me the low voltage code. I then ran the truck for about 20-30 and it charged the auxiliary battery and then ran the fridge for about a day before running low again. I then ran the truck for almost and hour and I could not get the two batteries to connect for more than 6-8 seconds. In between the solid green light I got the rapid flashing green light (one or both batteries is low). Any ideas? Could it be the ground wiring? I currently have it wired to the inner fender. Is there a better spot to ground it?

 

[BucketEighty]

So I have had my dual battery set up for almost two years now.I’m running the 7610. I’ve never had an issue running the little accessories off of the auxiliary battery (CB radio, lights, aux fan). I have since wired a cig lighter socket in the rear of the truck to run my Iceco JP50 fridge. The fridge ran for a little over a day before giving me the low voltage code. I then ran the truck for about 20-30 and it charged the auxiliary battery and then ran the fridge for about a day before running low again. I then ran the truck for almost and hour and I could not get the two batteries to connect for more than 6-8 seconds. In between the solid green light I got the rapid flashing green light (one or both batteries is low). Any ideas? Could it be the ground wiring? I currently have it wired to the inner fender. Is there a better spot to ground it?

I've been fighting latching issues with my ACR, I ended up making a new chassis ground cable for my primary battery,. The original chassis ground cable had some resistance in it (corroded 26 year old crimp connection maybe?). I have the ACR ground sharing the chassis ground bolt with the auxiliary battery (so pretty much directly to Aux battery ground) and a brand new chassis ground on the primary battery and it seems to work well now. Any voltage drop between the ground connections of the two batteries screws up the ACR, my next-level fix was going to be a big copper wire going directly between the two grounds on the two batteries.

 

[Dave 2000]

I fitted the 7622 500 amp unit many years ago, after around 7 years it packed up with no automatic action, Blue Seas replaced it FOC with no argument.

Problems I have seen apart from the one mentioned about mine are almost all down to poor installation or battery failure.

I use the battery to battery negatives connected together method and in turn both battery negatives to the body. I also use oversized cable. The most common problems though comes from the batteries. The 7622 is so reliable it is fit and forget, it does the job so well owners tend to forget about it. With modern batteries no longer testable via measuring the specific gravity volt meters have taken over however, they like the modern electronic battery are not good enough to call a battery good.

Get an old fashioned load tester which despite newer technology are still available today, I have had mine around 18...ish years? Yes it reads volts and can tell you if the alternator is giving out the correct charge, but more importantly it can mimic the load placed on the battery when cranking the engine. So if you have trouble with the Blue Seas VSR or any other VSR get the batteries test first....properly.

Regards

Dave