Blown Engine 66 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

[joestewart]

I over heated my F135 back in about 1988. The overheat was so bad that several of the valves were frozen in their respective guides (which is probably what happened to you). I can't remember, but I may have had a couple of bent push rods. I took off the cylinder head and had it rebuilt by "American Cylinder Head" which was (and probably still is) in Oakland, California. I inspected the cylinder bores and no apparent damage. Installed the rebuilt head and gentlemen, that engine is still running today, with no major interval work done to the core of the engine. I am pretty sure your outcome will be similar.

 

[Pighead]

To paraphrase a Cruiser Guru; "F engines are too stupid to die."
And the earlier the F engine is, the stupider it is.

 

[Bzerker999]

The intake are round o. The F135. Not sure if FJ25 was cast into them this late. Some of my early 60s FJ40 still had the FJ25 cast.

Thanks for the info I will get some pictures and post them this PM. Got the exhaust bolt to turn a quarter of a turn after one hour of messing with is, a work in progress.

I over heated my F135 back in about 1988. The overheat was so bad that several of the valves were frozen in their respective guides (which is probably what happened to you). I can't remember, but I may have had a couple of bent push rods. I took off the cylinder head and had it rebuilt by "American Cylinder Head" which was (and probably still is) in Oakland, California. I inspected the cylinder bores and no apparent damage. Installed the rebuilt head and gentlemen, that engine is still running today, with no major interval work done to the core of the engine. I am pretty sure your outcome will be similar.

Thanks for the info, sounds like wha exactly happened to me.. Luckly I do have a spare head.

 

[fjwagon]

These engines are long even when you are short a quart of oil they want to overheat. Still mostly bullet proof, you may see signs by removing the valve cover. You may consider locating a donor engine with good compression readings as a backup. We just never know...especially if we want to keep them "original". Locating can be easy I f time it when you do search but always.

 

[Bzerker999]

I finally got the intake/exhaust manifold off with out breaking any thing. The head will come off this afternoon.
The intake ports on the head are round and I found the following numbers on the head:
Front/top 51116
Rear/top 111 60020 32

 

[Bzerker999]

These engines are long even when you are short a quart of oil they want to overheat. Still mostly bullet proof, you may see signs by removing the valve cover. You may consider locating a donor engine with good compression readings as a backup. We just never know...especially if we want to keep them "original". Locating can be easy I f time it when you do search but always.

My compression was good before this event and the oil pressure was good when I shut the engine off so I am hoping I do not need another engine. But having a spare would not be a bad idea.

 

[Bzerker999]

Success - at least step 1, the head is off and I cannot see any damage to the valves, pistons nor cylinder wall. In fact everything looks very clean, very little carbon build up and no ring ridge. This engine has been rebuilt sometime in its past
So all I need is two push rods and I will be able to put this engine back together.
Two questions:
1. When I took the intake/exhaust of there was a removal mating ring between the head and intake manifold, there was only one of these, it looks like the other two ports were missing them
2. Damn, I just cannot remember the second question, senior moment, oh well it will come to me

 

[Bzerker999]

I have some pushrods from a 1970 F engine (well, lots of different ones actually….). If you need a couple few, they are yours for the cost of shipping.

But I’d try to get that head off and inspect.

Head is off and everything looks good so I would like to purchase two puh rods from you. How do I pay you for them?

 

[Travis Kinney]

I did something similar years ago. Didn’t have distributor seated so wasn’t pumping oil. Melted all my camshaft bearings. i took off my oil pan and could see the problem.

 

[Skreddy]

Head is off and everything looks good so I would like to purchase two puh rods from you. How do I pay you for them?

If you do have an F135, sounds like the pushrods are different than what I have (155). Maybe a pic would help of the engine?

 

[mrboatman]

@joestewart said he has some for a 135

 

[locklaw]

You can buy the 135 pushrods from SOR. Got very clean ones from them about a year ago

 

[65swb45]

I sell them too.

 

[Skreddy]

I’d get them from mark (65swb45). If for no other reason than he saved you the headache of getting the wrong ones from me!

 

[middlecalf]

In other threads it’s adamantly pointed out that when you pull the head and the rods that you keep the rods associated with their existing positions. How do you do that if your replacing a couple of rods with new ones? Or is it really important for that position maintenance?

And if you replace all of the rods then it can’t matter at all, right?

 

[Skreddy]

In other threads it’s adamantly pointed out that when you pull the head and the rods that you keep the rods associated with their existing positions. How do you do that if your replacing a couple of rods with new ones? Or is it really important for that position maintenance?

And if you replace all of the rods then it can’t matter at all, right?

The pushrods and rocker arms will wear a mating pattern to each other. I *think* this is much more important using used cam or lifters, but if I think I may have mixed up rocker arms or pushrods on any engine, I use lots of assembly/breakin lube and at first start, I run it like a new cam break in.

 

[locklaw]

In other threads it’s adamantly pointed out that when you pull the head and the rods that you keep the rods associated with their existing positions. How do you do that if your replacing a couple of rods with new ones? Or is it really important for that position maintenance?

And if you replace all of the rods then it can’t matter at all, right?

New ones are not easy to come by for the F135. As Skreddy said, use lots of assembly lube and "break in" the new to you pushrods. You're not building a 12:1 compression blown, alcohol fuelled motor that redlines at 9000rpm. It's a tractor engine.

I personally leave the valve clearances a bit sloppy for the initial break-in and use a molybdenum di-sulfate lube in addition to tons of assembly lube, ZDDP additives, good oil (Delo 400 MGX) and quick oil changes with OE filters.

If you saw the amount of rust and grime in my '64's F135 you'd toss it. It starts on the button and somehow idles dead smooth with good oil pressure, only the head, side cover and oil pan have been off. Three pistons were rusted solid to the bores under the rings and I honed it in-situ after knocking them out from underneath. I even reused the old bearings even though I have a NOS set. They (bearings) are the crucial to get right.

 

[Bzerker999]

I sell them too.

I need to buy at least two push rods. I am having a problem with getting me phone's (very old and cheap) pictures into my computer. Will make another attempt today. is there any measurement I can take that will help?

 

[Skreddy]

Try this. I stole this pic from another thread. F135 pushrod on left, later F on right. Which one looks like yours?

 

[Bzerker999]

Try this. I stole this pic from another thread. F135 pushrod on left, later F on right. Which one looks like yours?

View attachment 3005174

The one on the left looks exactly like mine, the shaft diameter is 0.274"(about 1/4") and about 11 3/8" long.