Blown AHC Line Repair or Replace?

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I've got a 2010 LX570 with a pinhole in the HiPres AHC line that goes between Driver and Passenger rear shocks. It's at the 90 right where it turns "North" toward the drivers side shock. Is it possible to cut out the bad piece and put a double flare on it with a union, or cut the bad piece out and fit a piece of brake line in the rotted corner? I've done this with brake and fuel lines with good success. Or is there anyone that knows the part number for that line that goes between the rear shocks? Inital search has me at 200 bucks for that line and I know I can flare it for 10 bucks if it will work. Any thoughts let me know. Looks like a PITA to remove.

Also on a side note, Spoke with SLEE about an OME retrofit and the guy said they figured out the process to retro a 200 LX570 but there was no shocks available due to our little shipping supply problem. I would love to install the OME/SLEE kit as I put it on my 470 after chasing AHC gremlins for a number of years and the SLEE kit is awesome.
 

TheGrrrrr

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I've got a 2010 LX570 with a pinhole in the HiPres AHC line that goes between Driver and Passenger rear shocks. It's at the 90 right where it turns "North" toward the drivers side shock. Is it possible to cut out the bad piece and put a double flare on it with a union, or cut the bad piece out and fit a piece of brake line in the rotted corner? I've done this with brake and fuel lines with good success. Or is there anyone that knows the part number for that line that goes between the rear shocks? Inital search has me at 200 bucks for that line and I know I can flare it for 10 bucks if it will work. Any thoughts let me know. Looks like a PITA to remove.

Also on a side note, Spoke with SLEE about an OME retrofit and the guy said they figured out the process to retro a 200 LX570 but there was no shocks available due to our little shipping supply problem. I would love to install the OME/SLEE kit as I put it on my 470 after chasing AHC gremlins for a number of years and the SLEE kit is awesome.


I believe this is a common-ish issue and has been addressed in other threads. IIRC you need to replace the line, but others may be able to point you in the right direction. I think this thread covers it: My AHC failed - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/my-ahc-failed.1214024/
 

TeCKis300

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The cut/flare/and union fix is not a bad idea. The AHC system is probably in the same magnitude of pressures compared to brake lines, and the system does use flares on component connections stock. I think it's wholly doable if you can find slack in the lines to do it. I've relocated and replumbed the ABS system before in other modern cars and the process isn't too bad. I say give her a shot!
 
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The most common line that fails is 48998-60010, fairly inexpensive. It's not that hard to replace but it's pretty tight. Replacing the brackets isn't necessary if you're careful when removing the tube.
 
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Great, ThanksAll !!!!!!! - I'm in the process of decoupling the line and that's really not a nice process.. Once the line is removed Ill try to remove the bad section and then re-couple it.
 
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The cut/flare/and union fix is not a bad idea. The AHC system is probably in the same magnitude of pressures compared to brake lines, and the system does use flares on component connections stock. I think it's wholly doable if you can find slack in the lines to do it. I've relocated and replumbed the ABS system before in other modern cars and the process isn't too bad. I say give her a sh

If you're already removing the line, the tube only costs like 80 bucks. I'd hate to do all the work and then have the mended line leak.
If you're already removing the line, the tube only costs like 80 bucks. I'd hate to do all the work and then have the mended line leak.
You are 100 percent spot on, and thanks for the part number. Local toyota dealer gets it to me tomorrow for 110 bucks. Its a pain in the butt to get that fitting loose on the driver side. I needed to cut the line and use 14 and 19 mm box end wrenches slid on over the line to break it loose. The fitting is right above the axle so it's a really bad angle of attack from the ground. Now on to the passenger side...
 
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You are 100 percent spot on, and thanks for the part number. Local toyota dealer gets it to me tomorrow for 110 bucks. Its a pain in the butt to get that fitting loose on the driver side. I needed to cut the line and use 14 and 19 mm box end wrenches slid on over the line to break it loose. The fitting is right above the axle so it's a really bad angle of attack from the ground. Now on to the passenger side...
For me the driver's side was pretty easy. The passenger side was more difficult because of clearance. It's pretty tight in there. A swivel ratcheting wrench helped with the bracket. I also sprayed painted the new tube at the heat wrap location with high heat paint to see if it helps with the rust. I also released the exhaust from like three of the rubber hangers to let it drop a bit to be able to remove the old tube and insert the new one in. A healthy amount of silicone spray helps with the rubber hangers.
 
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Thanks - I managed to get it put back together and then flushed / bled the system with about 4 quarts of toyota pink hydro fluid and it all is well! This was not an enjoyable job to be sure. it would probably be easier on a lift!!!
 

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