Blowing Smoke! (1 Viewer)

[Beckley]

Blowing Smoke when the Engine is fully topped off with oil. Bad when first starting and upon shifting. When it runs down about 2 qts of oil, no more smoke at all. Runs great and oil gauge shows a little above half on inside oil gauge. It acts like the oil is overfilled, but its not. I checked the oil stick to make sure its correct, and it is. I have some rod guide seals in case that is the problem, but have putting off installing. Orig F2 engine with 98000 miles. No knocks or pings. Any ideas? Thanks

1978 toyota FJ40 Smoke is light gray

 

[SteveH]

Valve stem seals should be high on the list. Also, be sure your PCV valve is working as it should and the system is connected as designed. You might do a compression test just for background information, too. It really shouldn't smoke less when it's 2 quarts low on oil, but so be it. Have you removed the valve cover? Is it gunky around the valve train?

If you are running too-thin an oil, that won't help. You should be running 10w-30 or 10w-40 or 15w-40 diesel oil. I'm sure others will chime in.

 

[Beckley]

Valve stem seals should be high on the list. Also, be sure your PCV valve is working as it should and the system is connected as designed. You might do a compression test just for background information, too. It really shouldn't smoke less when it's 2 quarts low on oil, but so be it. Have you removed the valve cover? Is it gunky around the valve train?

If you are running too-thin an oil, that won't help. You should be running 10w-30 or 10w-40 or 15w-40 diesel oil. I'm sure others will chime in.

I took off the


I replaced PC valve as first action. I took off the valve cover and it was clean. I reset the valves and they sound great. I keep thinking I would be smoking even with the oil low if it was worn valves or pistons, so I haven't checked compression.

 

[brian]

valve stem seals.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

There are many articles and videos regarding color of smoke

I’d do a compression test and be ready to replace valve stems.

 

[Beckley]

I am leaning toward valve stem seals also, I guess the only way to be sure is replace the seals! Thanks for all the comments

 

[pjohnson]

If the blue smoke is constant, it's rings.

If the blue smoke is at startup or upon acceleration or when accelerating after being stopped for a bit, it's valve stem seals.

 

[SteveH]

There are ways to replace valve stem seals without pulling the head, either using rope in the cylinder or compressed air to hold the valves shut while you remove the keepers and springs and replace the seals. Explore all these before you find a shop that wants to tear it all down and charge you $2000.

 

[Beckley]

There are ways to replace valve stem seals without pulling the head, either using rope in the cylinder or compressed air to hold the valves shut while you remove the keepers and springs and replace the seals. Explore all these before you find a shop that wants to tear it all down and charge you $2000.

 

[Beckley]

I have ordered my hose for the compression of the pistons and a valve spring keeper removal too. Both cost about $40. I know I can make these tools, but its not worth the time or effort and I want the best tools. so I don't mess this up. Loosing a keeper seems like a possible disaster. I have viewed a lot of You Tube videos and feel comfortable doing this myself. Thanks

 

[Dizzy]

A magnetic pickup tool for fishing out the keepers, also for the install of the keepers was essential.

 

[Beckley]

Do you know where the pistons should be (up or down) and how much pressure should be in the piston to hold the valves when removing the springs? I have a magnetic socket that removes and installs the keepers. It cost $27, but I don't want to risk a mistake.....I guess I can Ebay the tool when I'm done. Thanks for your help

 

[pjohnson]

Piston up as close to the top as possible. Squirt a little oil in the cylinder to help seal the rings. A Google search indicates at least 40-60 psi, but I suggest as high as you can get it.

 

[Beckley]

Piston up as close to the top as possible. Squirt a little oil in the cylinder to help seal the rings. A Google search indicates at least 40-60 psi, but I suggest as high as you can get it.

I also saw that one person recommended taking out the valve on the air valve holder and regulating the 70psi or whatever with the gauge on the compressor. This puts the compressor on automatic to keep the psi constant. Makes sense, do you agree? As always, thanks for your comments

 

[pjohnson]

I'm not sure what the air valve holder is, but I would think as long as you are keeping constant pressure in the cylinder the air compressor would kick on to keep the pressure up to whatever minimum you have it set for.

 

[Beckley]

I'm not sure what the air valve holder is, but I would think as long as you are keeping constant pressure in the cylinder the air compressor would kick on to keep the pressure up to whatever minimum you have it set for.

The air valve holder is Just a valve holder that is operated by a compressor. You had it right. The only catch with this valve holder is that it has a valve on it that holds the air in the cylinder like a bike tire. I don't see any reason for that! I can unscrew that valve just like on a bike tire.

 

[pjohnson]

The air valve holder is Just a valve holder that is operated by a compressor. You had it right. The only catch with this valve holder is that it has a valve on it that holds the air in the cylinder like a bike tire. I don't see any reason for that! I can unscrew that valve just like on a bike tire.

Got it. Just to check myself, here is a google search on the topic. Always good to check multiple sources.

how to change valve seals without removing head - Google Search