Blocking the EGR valve output? Bad Idea? (2 Viewers)

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First I should note that this is a 93 80 series. Because it is a 93 the EGR is not technically required, and there is no sensor and it doesn't throw a code when it is turned off.

So a while back I started to have some EGR valve issues. I ended up looping the vacuum lines to turn off the EGR system. But then the EGR vacuum modulator exploded. I made a thread here to show what happened.

EGR Vacuum Modulator Meltdown following EGT Delete

So I ended up disconnecting the modulator and just putting a cap on the output. It was just a rubber cap, and that rubber cap keeps blowing off. After looking at the FSM more closely I noticed that even with the EGR valve turned off, there would still be gases going to the modulator. You can see that here:
FSM capture 2.JPG


And here is picture that shows the output of the EGR valve where it would normally connect to the modulator
20180126_111948.jpg


So I decided to try something a little better than a cap. So I picked up a little brass pipe and end cap and extreme heat jb weld. My plan is to cut the pipe to length and jb weld the capped pipe to the output.
20180126_111808.jpg


But I am still not sure if this is going to work, or if this is even a good idea. What do you think? I really only wanted to plug up the EGR valve output to prevent the heat from damaging my wiring. But maybe that would send more gas into the engine, which may be a bad idea? I would like to block off the pipe, but I am not sure how to do that and do I have to pass a visual inspection, so removing the EGR completely is probably not a good idea.

Jared
 
If you have to have it for the visual inspection, why wouldn't you block the inlet port?
 
Why not just weld the fitting closed?

I hadn't really thought about that, but the number one reason is that I don't have a welder and don't know how to weld.

And I figured jb weld was as close as a non welder could come.

It does seem like welding might be easier.

Jared
 
If you have to have it for the visual inspection, why wouldn't you block the inlet port?

Do you mean the inlet port to the EGR valve? That probably would be better since it would close off the whole thing. But I am not sure how to do that.

I remember seeing a thread where someone said that you could unscrew the pipe going into the EGR valve and put a quarter in it. I guess I could do that. But I would like to hear from someone that it actually worked. Is a quarter really the right size? Does that really work, or is there a better thing to use as a plug?
 
Holy crap I was about to make a post about this, this morning. DO NOT use the JB Weld unless you want to do it again. I will expand after I walk the dog but it is dangerous.

This is what I was going to use:

jb weld extreme.jpeg
 
i cut up a piece of license plate that goes between the pipe and exhaust manifold housing, uses two bolts on the flange.
 
i cut up a piece of license plate that goes between the pipe and exhaust manifold housing, uses two bolts on the flange.

So you put the plate between the EGR valve and the intake?

That would stop the EGR gasses from going to the engine, but I don't think it would stop everything. I don't think that would block the outlet to the modulator that I am trying to block. If you look at the FSM picture above it shows that the outlet would still be open and gas would still be coming out.
 
Yep that is the same stuff I used. SO let me back up and tell my story so I don't look like a total idiot. Haha.

About 4 years ago I was going to do an EGR delete on my truck. I bought the gaskets and ordered custom aluminum block off plates. My first mistake was thinking that 2XL hands could fit down in the space between the fuel rail and head. It wasn't going to happen so like you I thought well I could just plug the EGR tube with the high heat JB Weld until I get a minute to do it right.....

I never got around to doing it right and the high heat JB weld was ok until it wasn't, but the scary part of the story is what happens when it isn't sealing the hole.

I was driving to work the other day in 17 degree weather, windows up and I started feeling a tingling in my lips. One of the early signs of carbon monoxide poisoning. I didn't smell strong exhaust fumes, and I didn't notice anything different, but I was certainly being gassed out. I quickly rolled down the windows (not fun when it is 17 degrees) and all was fine. When I got back home I checked that JB weld plug and sure enough it had shrunk enough to allow gas around parts of it. It appears that the hole is larger on the 95+ trucks as my hole was probably close to 1/2" and yours looks like maybe 1/4" but I wouldn't run the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning while driving. Order the block off plates and if you have 2XL hands pay someone to do it right.

This is what I was going to use:

View attachment 1626423
 
When I was baselining my ‘93 I cleaned the intake and noticed the EGR port was completely blocked off by crud so I made the assumption that it wasn’t affecting anything too major. After cleaning everything I just made a little block off plate out of 18g sheet metal and put it between the hardline coming off the exhaust. Works great and no hot exhaust running through the EGR pipe by the wire harness
 
What they said...
 
My bad, follow the EGR pipe down to the Head, it has a flange with two bolts or studs. Pulled the gasket out to trace on an old license plate and drilled the two mounting holes and then trimmed it out with tin snips. Reinstalled the EGR pipe for visual appearances but the pipe was blocked so no heat in the pipe that runs next to the engine working harness... Used a lead airgun pellet to block the inside of the vacuum lines going to the modulator
 
Couldn't you just use a correct size self tapping screw in the factory pipe?

Or use a regular 'tap' and thread the inside of it to accept a screw?

The wall thickness looks adequate?
 
I’ve learned that the egr helps to regulate head temp as a byproduct of its function. Other than the desire to ‘keep a cleaner combustion chamber’ I’ve never understood the point.
 
I’ve learned that the egr helps to regulate head temp as a byproduct of its function. Other than the desire to ‘keep a cleaner combustion chamber’ I’ve never understood the point.

On the contrary common failure of cylinders 6 and 5 is because of overheating them with hot gases from the exhaust and EGR. 1fz-Fe originally was not planned to work with EGR+PAIR it was added later because of federal/California regulation

the injection point of EGR is between cyl 5 and 6 look in the forum for "failure of cylinder 6"

and it burns the engin wires hurness
 

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