Blew up something! (1 Viewer)

[H E A V Y M E T A L]

So over the weekend I got the t case out. It was a little tough, 3 as the shop is freezing, seriously one day it was 10°F, and having to remove the drive shafts and whatnots. I found some other issues CV boot band leaking. Control arm bushings look funny. I will get some pictures up for some opinions from you guys

 

[3_puppies]

Just curious where you got the transfer case from? wonder what the cost was, you can PM if you don't want the figure out here.
Paul

 

[H E A V Y M E T A L]

$900 +$125 to ship from ranch Cordova, ca. It's a good place that sells good parts from cruisers and other popular vehicles. Comes with one year warranty to boot! Verses $3800 from the dealership. I have a neighbor that works at the dealership and even he like this deal. You can view pictures of the donor vehicle and run the VIN in Carfax.

 

[rc51kid]

This sucks. If you rebuild make it worth while and regear the transfer if you can

 

[H E A V Y M E T A L]

This absolutely does sucks. But yes I am going to beef up with a new custom front differential. I will regear the transfer case as well, not right at the moment, I'm just swapping it out. I will do maintenance along the way.

 

[Kyitty]

Crazy story man. Sorry you're dealing with all this.

If those chicks were intoxicated I sure as hell would have called the fuzz. But I've got somewhere less than zero tolerance for that kind of tom-foolery.

 

[REZARF]

You did the right thing to help the gals out. Hold you head high. We will be judged by what we do... so will they.

On a side note, popping another stuck truck out in reverse, in a 100 series (or Sequoia) with the tires locked escalates the chances of blowing a front diff exponentially. One of the few weak spots of the 100's.

Good info on the used case. Sorry for your troubles, it would have been a LOT worse hearing of two young fools perishing in the snow knowing you could have done something about it and not doing it. Proud of you bro, parts breaks suck, doing the right thing doesn't.

 

[H E A V Y M E T A L]

Well said, thanks for making feel better.

 

[rc51kid]

You did the right thing to help the gals out. Hold you head high. We will be judged by what we do... so will they.

On a side note, popping another stuck truck out in reverse, in a 100 series (or Sequoia) with the tires locked escalates the chances of blowing a front diff exponentially. One of the few weak spots of the 100's.

Good info on the used case. Sorry for your troubles, it would have been a LOT worse hearing of two young fools perishing in the snow knowing you could have done something about it and not doing it. Proud of you bro, parts breaks suck, doing the right thing doesn't.

Not just the 100 and the Sequia. The 80 also. About every month someone posts up a thread of ripping up stumps with diffs locked in revers on pavement and want to know what is up with the noise in the diff.

 

[H E A V Y M E T A L]

Morning Gents,
I am waiting on seals to complete the transfer case install. Everything is on track and This was way easier than I thought.

I just started the tear down to remove the front differential... This is a bit more involved. So far there are a few tricks and annoyances I would like to share.

1. Proper tools- the dealer did not do this believe it or not (see photo of 54mm nut)
   
2. Popping off the cone washers.
3. The trick to pulling off the brake rotors and pulling the inner bearing and seal off at the same time with out damaging them.
4. Getting the ball joints to pop apart with sweet hammer tappin action.
5. The trick to popping out the CV shafts with no damage. Use two prybars and a swift prying motion against the diff and it is no effort.

I will get more photos when it warms up.

 

[3_puppies]

how do you know the dealer did that? unfortunately, I've had to resort to that out in the field when the correct socket wasn't available.

it'll be interesting to see what the diff looks like.

 

[H E A V Y M E T A L]

I was the last one in there. Then I got lazy and decided to have the dealer do my CV shafts... And I just opened it up again and what do you know it looks like a shade tree mechanic has been in there.

P.s. I have done that too. If you have to you have to, the dealership has an entire room of SST, I know I worked there once upon a time. What the photo doesn't show is a super deep gouge that cut my rubber glove off. I know I'm picky but come on.

 

[3_puppies]

that is crappy then, didn't know the background.

 

[H E A V Y M E T A L]

Look what showed up!

 

[H E A V Y M E T A L]

So as I'm dealing with a broken differential and transfer case. I find my front lower control arms are completely falling apart; ALL the bushings and the ball joints are crumbling away... What the f. Rewind 8 months and I had just installed brand new lower control arms from Moog, I saved money, put on the "RK" version, just so you all know RK means garbage. Moog said pound sand, they will only give me the same control arm no refund since it has been over a year. But I said that is when I bought it I just installed it a few months ago they still look new. Moog does not care. Man, hard life lesson right there. I am such a idiot for cutting corners and saving a few bucks, but don't we all want a deal? It has taken longer and cost me more but I am only buying HI end or OEM parts now.

It's hard to see in the photo but this bushing is broken all the way around. I installed it more than perfect. And followed the FSM exactly.

This is the back with no mating surfaces (the small chisel marks bug me too, but are just superficial and I should have painted over them). Completely broken bushing all the way around.

 

[H E A V Y M E T A L]

I left these parts on a press I just sold. But I made a pretty cool bushing press.

 

[3_puppies]

cool, smooth gears. no wonder it was making noise.
bummer on the control arms.

 

[jtxterra]

I will never use moog parts my 4 runner had new moog ball joints when I bought it they lasted about a year after I put an arb bumper and winch on it. I replaced my upper and lower ball joints idler arm and tie rod ends with mevotech blues and could not be happier. Everything came with zerk fittings ( a huge upgrade over the old Toyota idler arms) and blue poly boots. (Looks performance )My 4 runner feels like a new vehicle driving down the road even after abusing it on the trail and carrying all that extra weight up front

 

[H E A V Y M E T A L]

Another sidebar from the transfer case, on pause waiting for a seal.

I used a vice, a good one, and pressed out the bushing in the control arm. Don't laugh at my tooling, I was in a pinch.

This is a Wilton vise with a 6-3/4 opening. I had to press in steps.

 

[JohnnyOshow22]

If

Another sidebar from the transfer case, on pause waiting for a seal.

I used a vice, a good one, and pressed out the bushing in the control arm. Don't laugh at my tooling, I was in a pinch.
View attachment 1654308
View attachment 1654311

View attachment 1654312
This is a Wilton vise with a 6-3/4 opening. I had to press in steps.

If it works it works right!