Sitting in the drive through temps over a 100 and an A/C line blew out near the battery . I couldn't see much there. Is the drier located in that area? Couldn't really tell...
Blew an A/C line on my 100 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter blake_fzj80
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The small high side line(s) from your condenser route up that direction. IF you have rear air, there will be two. It/they go to the Evaporator (actually terminate at the TXV on the Evap). You will want to look to see what the damage looks like (small enough to repair with a union) or too large (requiring replacement of the line.
- Thread starter
- #4
Mine does have rear A/C and I had 'em both on.
so you think it's a hard line? Where can I buy those? Or just get some made up at a local hoses place?
so you think it's a hard line? Where can I buy those? Or just get some made up at a local hoses place?
Could be the pressure release valve. It is located on top of the compressor, and if this is the culprit, nothing to worry, add freon, check fan clutch and clean the condenser and radiator fins.
It is best NOT to keep both front and rear AC on HIGH all the time. Once it is cold, bring those to mid settings.
It is best NOT to keep both front and rear AC on HIGH all the time. Once it is cold, bring those to mid settings.
I'd bet it's one of the lines just behind the passenger side front wheel well. Those are usually the lines that develop holes due to salt, debris, and water.
Check your pressure by using a vacuum on the system. If it holds vacuum for an hour or more, you don't have a leak. If pressure goes back to ambient, you do.
If you have a leak, you need to identify where the leak is. A dye kit and black light are great for this purpose. Once you identify the leak, you can replace or repair the section.
Check your pressure by using a vacuum on the system. If it holds vacuum for an hour or more, you don't have a leak. If pressure goes back to ambient, you do.
If you have a leak, you need to identify where the leak is. A dye kit and black light are great for this purpose. Once you identify the leak, you can replace or repair the section.
The suction and high-pressure lines are both 'near the battery'. How did you determine which one blew, and can you please provide a photo of the line you are asking about?
- Thread starter
- #8
I don't know which lines blew. I simply have not had the ability to go check. Driverside front of the truck, near the battery.
I"m just trying to get an idea of what A/C components are located there.
I"m just trying to get an idea of what A/C components are located there.
- Thread starter
- #9
Blew one of the hard lines that goes from the radiator area around the battery, along the fender to the firewall.
Can those hard lines be repaired? Or must they be replaced?
Can those hard lines be repaired? Or must they be replaced?
With the time you put into repairing the line (if it is repairable, which is questionable), and the charge for it, your money will be better spent getting a new hose and knowing it is fixed permanently.
- Thread starter
- #11
It's a hard line, not a hose.
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Can you post a pic of the line involved and its location?
IF you have rear air...there are two lines that route that direction. Both hug the fender and firewall tightly at certain points. I would be inclined to replace the burst line with new especially if it failed because of corrosion. The line(s) are your high pressure lines that go from the condenser to the evaporator(s) (terminate at the TXV).
OP are you planning on repairing yourself?
If so you need to follow line closely. One is just a little longer. They have foam padding in different spots also which helps identify..
I just did one yesterday in a highly built 99LC.
The hard line takes a 17mm and 19mm flare nut wrench and then 19mm flare nut crow foot to torque in. I started at 84IN-lbf (INCH or 7ft-lbf)
@flintknapper see your favorite the little bottle "Nylog" thanks! I use it a lot these days, not just on the O-rings of AC. But also when I need to hold other rubber seals in places. Good stuff.
OP here is front end where lines connect.
We're replacing because nut near pressure switch threads were stuck and damaged threads during removal. Not a difficult job just time consuming in our case as so many aftermarket parts in the way.
This is a custom job (body lift rub worn into pipe) so the piping where it attaches at pressure switch and condenser will look a little different. You do not need to pull this piping from condenser as I have.
If so you need to follow line closely. One is just a little longer. They have foam padding in different spots also which helps identify..
I just did one yesterday in a highly built 99LC.
The hard line takes a 17mm and 19mm flare nut wrench and then 19mm flare nut crow foot to torque in. I started at 84IN-lbf (INCH or 7ft-lbf)
@flintknapper see your favorite the little bottle "Nylog" thanks! I use it a lot these days, not just on the O-rings of AC. But also when I need to hold other rubber seals in places. Good stuff.
OP here is front end where lines connect.
We're replacing because nut near pressure switch threads were stuck and damaged threads during removal. Not a difficult job just time consuming in our case as so many aftermarket parts in the way.
This is a custom job (body lift rub worn into pipe) so the piping where it attaches at pressure switch and condenser will look a little different. You do not need to pull this piping from condenser as I have.
Excellent photos.....thanks for sharing.
For those not familiar: The line you see in photo #1 is the high side line that comes directly off the compressor and goes across the top of the radiator shroud where it mates to the top of the condenser on the passenger side.
Photo #4 is the line that comes off the bottom of the condenser (drivers side) goes underneath the cross-member and joins to the two lines (seen in photo #3) which are your high side lines that go to your front and rear evaporators.
Photo #4 very clearly shows the connection to the condenser and how the line goes on to form the Sight-Glass and mount for the Trinary Switch (pressure switch) before forming a 'Tee' to connect to the lines that go to the evaporators (terminates at the TXV's actually).
Great pics.
Sorry for high jacking.
@flintknapper I've a problem. This custom built piping that connect at condenser is leaking at O-ring. I've tried three O-rings.
I pressurizes AC system to 60PSI with air. Then sprayed with soapy water.
Bubble..OH NO!
The diameter where O-ring fits on pipe is slightly larger. Which should be in my favor, making tighter fit. Yet it leaks with old, new or off the shelve O-ring.
The length of male part is longer on the custom pieces and some other difference. But measuring of all involved it should work/fit, and does not bottom in female hole (1mm short of bottoming, female hole about 12mm depth, male pipe fitting about 11mm in length).
I've now notice the custom piece is not polished like the one that came out.
Old
Notice "old" fitting has 90 degree angles where O-ring resides, and tapered at front. New is tapered where seal resides and flat at front. Would tapered or make a difference to O-ring sealing in groove O-ring resides or nose/front?
Custom piping with different fitting to condenser that changes direction of pipe to clear frame due to body lift. So comes out to front rather than up.
Would polishing make a difference to O-ring seal at PSI need to hold pressure?
New custom It looks unpolished.
@flintknapper I've a problem. This custom built piping that connect at condenser is leaking at O-ring. I've tried three O-rings.
I pressurizes AC system to 60PSI with air. Then sprayed with soapy water.
Bubble..OH NO!
The diameter where O-ring fits on pipe is slightly larger. Which should be in my favor, making tighter fit. Yet it leaks with old, new or off the shelve O-ring.
The length of male part is longer on the custom pieces and some other difference. But measuring of all involved it should work/fit, and does not bottom in female hole (1mm short of bottoming, female hole about 12mm depth, male pipe fitting about 11mm in length).
I've now notice the custom piece is not polished like the one that came out.
Old
Notice "old" fitting has 90 degree angles where O-ring resides, and tapered at front. New is tapered where seal resides and flat at front. Would tapered or make a difference to O-ring sealing in groove O-ring resides or nose/front?
Custom piping with different fitting to condenser that changes direction of pipe to clear frame due to body lift. So comes out to front rather than up.
Would polishing make a difference to O-ring seal at PSI need to hold pressure?
New custom It looks unpolished.
Wow...never seen anything that rough. Doubtful it will ever seal (as is). It really should have 90° shoulders (in the O-ring groove) to prevent it from rolling up out of the groove and becoming pinched. Also, looks like the base of the the connection and piping have a slight radius. I'm concerned also with the length of the stub end of the piping.
Some combination of these things is preventing a good seal. I think you can use it...but you'll probably have to smooth the O-ring groove, take a little length off the pipe end and then make a physical gasket (from a thin piece of aluminum can) to go between the two mating surfaces. Dispense with any suggested torque figures and tighten that puppy down good.
Maybe try putting a soft polishing wheel on your bench grinder, with a little compound, and see if you can polish up that groove? Myself, I'd be taking it back wherever it was made, that really looks terrible....
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I'm also a little concerned that the length of the piping is having an influence. Not that it is bottoming out, we know it isn't but that it might not be square to the 'boss'....causing it to be slightly tilted when trying to pull the two mating surfaces together.
Cutting some length off there (unneeded anyway) might correct that. But the surfaces have a lot of pitting that even an O-ring will have a hard time sealing. Trouble is...once you modify it in anyway...it's yours.
Alignment with longer pipe I'd not considered. I've slipped in without O-ring. It did not seem an issue, but I'll look again and cut if any doubt. Which I do first as that would require pulling.
Okay. Going try and polish in place with mini bits if possible. If I don't need pull.
Not having 90 degree edge is concerning. I've look for photo of newer ones (I think that what was used to build this one) to see if they have tapper or not. Haven't found a picture!
Gasket, that's a thought. But with the pressures involved and only one bolt and it to one side. Not sure it would seal well enough. Worth a try. We were thinking glue, but that's a sticky road to travel. If fails, I'd have hard time cleaning glue out. Could cause need for condenser replacement.
If today's efforts fail. I've recommended it be take back to fabricator.
The joys of off road built rigs are many!
Okay. Going try and polish in place with mini bits if possible. If I don't need pull.
Not having 90 degree edge is concerning. I've look for photo of newer ones (I think that what was used to build this one) to see if they have tapper or not. Haven't found a picture!
Gasket, that's a thought. But with the pressures involved and only one bolt and it to one side. Not sure it would seal well enough. Worth a try. We were thinking glue, but that's a sticky road to travel. If fails, I'd have hard time cleaning glue out. Could cause need for condenser replacement.
If today's efforts fail. I've recommended it be take back to fabricator.
The joys of off road built rigs are many!
