Bleeding my master cylinder and lines...

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May 13, 2006
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Question about bleeding my master cylinder and lines...

I need a little help here. I am about to bleed my master cylinder and lines/LSPV. And I believe I am supposed to bleed the MC first then move to the LSPV, pass rear, driver rear, pass front and finish with driver front.

Is this the correct sequence in which I should do the system bleed?

I searched first and didn't find the answer.

Thanks in advance for your help....
 
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Cruiser804

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Typically you do not need to bleed the MC. But if you are going to do it the FSM says it should be done first then move on to the bleeder farthest from the MC. So, PS rear, LSPV, DS rear, PS front and finally DS front.
 
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I would not bleed the MC. If you REALLY want to, make sure you have flarenut wrenches (sometimes called line wrenches). Ask me how I know. :rolleyes:

I'd either skip bleeding the master cylinder or have someone with a power bleeder do it for you. It'll save you a lot of heartache (ESPECIALLY if you ruin one of the hard lines). I got the last one in the US for one of them (at least at the time, dunno if there's more now).
 
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Thanks guys - I am bleeding the MC because I have a leaking caliper (weeping clear brake fluid a the base and cannot locate any other leaks in the lines or connections) that I didn't notice immediately and can't remember if the resevoir was completely empty or not last week when I lost most of my braking capability and added more fluid. So the MC may have air in it and the FSM shows the procedure as fairly straight forward.

Again, I appreciate the input.

Another brake question - Installed two of my three stainless extended brake lines before finding a seized line on the pass front stock line and I stripped it. Just as I was coming down the home stretch on the project..... now I need to replace a small section of hard line but cannot get any of it apart :mad: - any suggestions besides a mechanic? I am trying to learn.....

Also, would appreciate input on getting rebuilt calipers or gettign a rebuild kit and doing it my self. I read through the rebuild process and think I can do it, but is there an advantage to buying them rebuilt?

Appreciate your help...
 
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Ordered the caliper rebuild kits for all four and the small piece of hard line for the pass front that I anticipate ruining before I get the rubber line apart (8 bucks). Wish me luck....here goes.

As I asked for before, advice and suggestions are appreciated.
 
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Did the bleed last night and took you guys' advice and did not bleed the MC and just did the lines - WHAT AN IMPROVEMENT! I cannot get the ABS to kick in on pavement yet, but a big step in the right direction none the less.

I have only driven about five miles since the bleed last night - will the brakes continue to get better as I drive it more or is it as good as it gets now? :hmm:
 
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I guess that depends. Did you get all the air out of the lines? Sometimes the air will bubble back up into the reservoir, but I wouldn't count on it. You may have damaged the MC when/if it ran dry. Do the brakes feel soft? Does the brake peddle hold, or does it slowly creep to the floor when constant pressure is applied?

I would have taken the MC off of the truck and bench bled it first. I only take it off the truck because brake fluid does bad things to paint.
 

Beowulf

 
 
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I cannot get the ABS to kick in on pavement yet...
With 35" tyres on a built rig, you are going to have a hard time trying to lock the brakes on pavement. I couldn't do it after a complete brake fluid flush, fresh rotors, and new EBC pads. The truck stops very good but the ABS doesn't kick in.

I have only driven about five miles since the bleed last night - will the brakes continue to get better as I drive it more or is it as good as it gets now?
If you put on new pads and fresh rotors and did the proper pad bedding procedure, then the braking will get a little better as the pads adapt to the rotors. If all you did was a flush and bleed then it won't get any better.

-B-
 
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