BJ74 rusty/leaky windshield bib.

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Gots a BJ74 and ever since I've had it, its had a leaky windshield off and on. Even after a windshield replacement. Truck in opposing traffic left a socket or something on the bedrail, '74 @ 100Km/h vs. Sears Craftsman socket @ 100 Km/h = good time to be in a RHD, souded like a gunshot. But I digress, the unit has been stored for a few years now mostly outside with a proper cover. To my dismay, I find that the windshield bib has been slowly rusting from the inside out, now the passenger side interior has a nice big hole in it. I've gone over again and again trying to seal up where the water is getting in to no avail.

My question is: Is this a common problem with the 70 series? Is this a problem with the bib, the seals or the FRP top? I am planning a frame-off restoration on it and would like to know how to prevent this from happening again. Especially if I take the time to replace the whole bib.
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Gots a BJ74 and ever since I've had it, its had a leaky windshield off and on. Even after a windshield replacement. Truck in opposing traffic left a socket or something on the bedrail, '74 @ 100Km/h vs. Sears Craftsman socket @ 100 Km/h = good time to be in a RHD, souded like a gunshot. But I digress, the unit has been stored for a few years now mostly outside with a proper cover. To my dismay, I find that the windshield bib has been slowly rusting from the inside out, now the passenger side interior has a nice big hole in it. I've gone over again and again trying to seal up where the water is getting in to no avail.

My question is: Is this a common problem with the 70 series? Is this a problem with the bib, the seals or the FRP top? I am planning a frame-off restoration on it and would like to know how to prevent this from happening again. Especially if I take the time to replace the whole bib.

Common problem? Yes,very common. My 75 series frame is rusting in the same place(almost looks like a pic of mine)

It is probably leaking around the windscreen up top and collecting at the lowest point.
It could also be from condensation forming on the inside of the frame
There are fibreglass frames that look good(FRP in NSW make one)for about $400
I have brand new OEM frame to go on. I will be closely examining all rubber and I will be coating it in some kind of anti rust solutuon before painting.
 
Yes , very common ", that seam has to go,". I pumped some "rust check in ther via tube , I need anew one soon. I will see if it crumples next weekend up Churn , our Coastal Cruiser long weekend run
 
Looks almost as rusty as mine! Soon, I'll be seeing daylight below the windscreen.
Rosco - any contact info for the Aus supplier of FRP frames? Are they considered a good replacement for the OEM? The originals are still available but if a fibreglass replacement is an upgrade, ideally for less money it would cure it for good.

thanks
 
make sure the rust that falls out dont block up your air vents mate
 
I've been able to avoid this rustproblem (I think/hope). I think it's a result of condensation, rather than a leak somewhere.
If you replace the frame you can do what I did when I got my rig.
I took out every bolt I could find in the frame and used a rattlecan with rust-prevention goo.
These cans go with a long thin hose that has a nozzle at the end of the hose.
I poked this hose into the frame, hole by hole, in both directions, slowly pulling the hose back, spraying liberally (almost one can! A lot ;)).
There must be some drainhole near the front pillar of the front doors, because this go was dripping along these pillars during the next day or two.
My rig is almost 14 years old now.....still no rust (AFAIK ;) ;) ;))

I've had an issue with a drip of water falling on the floor at the passengerside. Still don't know how it got there but after replacing the top seals (in between the FRP and the frame) this was solved.
 
450 euros! nice stuff though, the Paris/Dakkar 40 was cool.

I guess I'm looking at a new bib and might as well go new seals on the FRP top. Kinda had a feeling this was a common problem, and a bit of a weak point in the design. Is it more common with the FRP top or ragtop as opposed to a solid roof?
 
yep, i have a BJ70 ragtop with 22000 km on it and the same thing. it is a condensation issue. i bought a new frame from Dave at Japan 4x4. it was cheap in comparrison to bodywork cost or fiberglass.
i will drill a small 1/4" hole at the bottom in each corner to let the moisture out and air in. then a penetrating wax rust proofing.
 
Here's an idea, perhaps drill the holes and fill the whole thing with expanding foam. Bad plan?
 
Kinda thought that might be a problem. Never hurts to ask. Sounds like the straight up replacement with cosmoline style rustproofing sounds like the best bet. I like the roy creations unit, but $600 + shipping from France might be a bit more than i'm willing to chuck. An aluminum replacement might be nice, if there were such a thing. Does Japan4X4's units come complete with windshield?
 
Try to avoid a fiberglass one (if there avl to you anyways) a mates 75 ute from pulling the jesus bar every time he would jump in the cab eventually ripped the bolts through the fiberglass and the snorkel bracket eventually vibrated the bolt holes bigger to leak and break
 
Good point. Looks like OEM steel one is the way to go.

And if you do a good job in rustproofing -maybe even before putting it on - you'll be fine for years like I demonstrated :):):).
 
Try to avoid a fiberglass one (if there avl to you anyways) a mates 75 ute from pulling the jesus bar every time he would jump in the cab eventually ripped the bolts through the fiberglass and the snorkel bracket eventually vibrated the bolt holes bigger to leak and break


Thanks Mate!!!

:beer: :cheers:
 
If your looking from AUS maybe try Matser Auto parts (perth) he specialises in landcruiser parts thats were mate with the fiberglass window frame got his new steel one . Thats also were i get all my goodies from ,cheaper than other places ive tryed
 
I think the design is very prone to condensation issues, but it does leak as well on rainy days. Either problem is bad on it's own.

I guess since the first one held together for 20 years I can amortize the replacement over the same period. Being as cheap as I am it will still hurt to do it over 2029 though ;)
Looks like OEM with lots of rust preventing goo is the way to go. Hopefully the bulkhead isn't rusted as well.

Thanks for all the advice. Cheers
 

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