BJ74 rear heater hard lines fail

[jfrench]

Below are diagrams from ToyoDIY.

In your first pic I just connected the two lines with a plastic elbow I found at Ace Hardware. This connects the rear heater inlet straight to rear heater outlet, removing the heater from the circuit. In my case, my lines are decent enough for now and it's a quick fix. I'll remove all the lines eventually.

If you want to do as others have, remove all the lines (hard and soft) from the rear heater moving towards the engine. I believe the line leading to engine block you referenced would be the heater inlet (supplies hot coolant/water to the rear heater) and the other (T connection you referenced) is the rear heater outlet. It should make sense if you refer to the diagrams and follow the lines forward. In the second diagram, the L piece of rubber heater hose from the heater is the outlet. The metal L that leads to a short, straight piece of rubber hose is the inlet. Clear as mud?

 

[jfrench]

Sorry those images suck. Right click them and open in a new tab and they should show up with white background. If not, PM your email and I'll send them to you. Not sure why I can't get them to show up properly.

 

[jfrench]

This is still on my to-do list. If someone writes a thread and includes a how-to and has all the part numbers it'll make it exponentially more likely that I actually do it!

Once the rear heater is removed I can get to work on building a custom center console with a proper cupholder or two!

View attachment 1279339

Forgot to mention. If you can make that center console happen, I'll fly out to you and remove your rear heater for you! That thing is sweet. I'm assuming it'll jive with a RHD, manual transmission setup?

 

[fireball]

Not sure I understand what you did.... the first photo I posted shows the two lines under the truck going up and into the rear heater. Those lines appear to be different diameter. You bought some type of u-shaped adapter to tie them together there so that instead of recirculating running through the heater, you just circulated it right at the point where my photo was taken?

Saving those two parts diagram photos and opening them on my laptop put the photo in the correct format with a white background. Thanks!

 

[jfrench]

You bought some type of u-shaped adapter to tie them together there so that instead of recirculating running through the heater, you just circulated it right at the point where my photo was taken?

Yes, plastic 90* elbow from Ace and connected the two rubber lines. I'm almost certain they are the same internal diameter. I can snap a pic tomorrow and post it if you want.

 

[fireball]

Yes a photo would help please.

If you look back at my last photo, it appears that @stayalert and I have the same style fitting going into the block. @beno has a cactus style fitting and @stayalert and my truck both appear to have a straight fitting. I'll try to remove that and see if I can buy a plug like Beno did, if not the plug and hose clamp will work.

Then the only question would be how to cap the T-location in my third photo. It would be great to know these parts and have them in hand beforehand if anyone can help!

And yes, that center console will exist, I can promise you that but I won't commit to a timeline Mu truck is a 5-spd RHD so I sure hope it will fit!

 

[jfrench]

Well, I figured I could just walk out to the garage and snap a pic so below is what I did. I had some extra heater hose so I used a longer straight piece to make it work. Looking at it in the pic, my lines are RUSTY so I'll be addressing this sooner rather than later.

As far as the fitting on the 3b vs. 13b-t I would assume that just like most other things Toyota the fitting that @beno used would work on your block if they worked on his 3b block. The only thing I would worry about is that he used standard US spec pipe thread and I would assume the 3b and 13b-t blocks are tapped in a metric thread size. If you look closely at his pics the OEM fitting is tapered and the threaded plug he used in not.

And for the T location just put a plug in it like @stayalert did as pictured on page 1.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Old thread revival. From Post #21 hard lines Toyota part number #87208A.
As per the diagram which I couldn't find on Megazip nor Amayama. Today I was rolling around under the old truck
and realized the hard lines are corroding thru. I will not be deleting the rear heater cause Canada. I realize these are
NLA from Toyota. Is there a source someone or some dealer supplier selling aftermarket or duplicates? My first instinct
since I am able to wait until winter and make it a project is remove and copy them with nice new SS piping. Bit of work but
nice truck and it's worth the effort. Anyone have any input I'd appreciate it. I'm still roof off convertible mode so no rush.

 

[jblueridge]

I disabled the rear heater since I feared a leak.
To replace the hard lines I’d get bendable cupro nickel tubing.
Not sure what diameters it comes in.

 

[cruiserpilot]

To replace the hard lines I’d get bendable cupro nickel tubing

Thanks, did that auto correct to cupro? Copper maybe?

 

[jblueridge]

Yes, cupro = copper-nickel alloy. Often used as easy to bend, non corroding brake and fuel line.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Regardless of whether you want the rear heater or not, many of them are 25-30 years old. Many of them are rusting away.

The parts are no longer available from Toyota. So your solutions will have to be based on that.

Bringing you into this old thread. Question since possibility was mentioned and thought worth an ask.
Are later model HZJ LHD 70 series that have hard heater coolant lines to console heater might be adaptable?
I'm in the middle of building front bumper for winch and it's leaking all over the shop floor so I guess now is
the time.