bj60 glow plug timer location

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Greg_B said:
:D

No no no....turf the timer. Throw it far away. Step on it. Give it to someone who want's to see what is wrong with it. Throw it in the scrap bin...

:D

One switch only.

gb

Sounded to me like he want's to keep the timer as well as add a momentary switch for really cold days. I don't know if that's possible but if it is I think two switches would be required. Probably not the wisest thing to do though.
 
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Manual Switch Bypass Glow Timer

BJ60 Bypass

Fist off I believe I am one of many pilferer's of great ideas, and as such I hope not to get credit where credit is not due. Kudos to master Toyota Tech Ciaran Wilson of Langley, BC. He has run this system in his BJ60’s (or variations of) for at least 5 years. I am sure the LandCruiser community will be hearing more of him in the coming years.

I also do not take detailed notes, such as pin # on connections, so if anyone who uses this wants to add to the tech sheet feel free.

The fuse panel has one 7.5amp fuse marked Glow. In reality, all this fuse does it light up the glow light on the dash.

Access the glow timer in the kick panel on the drivers side. Undo the factory connection to the glow timer. Among all the wires heading up the harness are two black/red wires (opposite ends of the plug). One goes to the high end glow relay, and the other goes to the afterglow relay (picture supplied on this post; I removed the cover of the relay so it would identify easier---the one you want is on top of the inner fender, not the one beside the starter relay). I pushed a wire into one connection at the kick panel, and ran it out the door and to engine bay. I simply completed the loop at the battery using the age old “push the bare wire onto the positive pole” method, and listened for which glow relay it activated. When I got the right relay I marked and cut the wire at the harness in the kick panel.

I took the instrument cluster out, and cut the two wires going to the glow light, in effect severing the light from the harness; I believe one is black/red and one is red/white. One is powered when the key is on ACC (I think it was black/red). This is the one you want to run to one side of the NO switch. Dead head the other wire.

Run two wires off the other side of the NO switch: One to the glow light bulb pigtail you left yourself, and one to the black/red wire that heads to the main relay from the drivers side kick panel area.

Run another other wire from the back of the glow light bulb to ground of your choice (I took it to a bolt on the firewall).

Test the system, then finalize all your connections. With the key is out, you should be able to press the button, and nothing happens. Turn the key to acc and when the button is pressed current should go through to both the glow light, and the main glow relay, tripping the relay and glowing your plugs, as well as turning on the glow light.

Make sure your connections are sound (solder and shrink wrap), put back together and enjoy.

This system has been used for at least 5 years with no issues appearing. It works great on my truck. Wire it in at your own risk.

Leave the glow timer right out of the system, and you have a totally manual system. You could hook the timer back up, deadhead the one black/red cut wiring coming out the timer, and in effect have total control of the high end glow and still maintain the afterglow, if it still works.

I have not yet changed out the plugs from the 12V super glow Toyota=19850-68050 (51) 12V-6V to the manual glow 12V Toyota=19850-68010 12V-10.5V…one day.

Brownbear, I suppose one could not sever the connection at the timer relay, and simply T into that with the above wiring system. You could then “super afterglow” the system with the button if you choose.

Alternatively, you could check the wiring and see if you can do much the same as the 13BT/12HT glow system fix that Mike Forbes pioneered. I believe Stone has some excellent posts further defining this override on Mud. I have not confirmed, however if it is the same you can tap into the water sensor loop for the glow with a normally closed switch. When you push the button you in effect mimic very cold weather, and fool the system into glowing as long as the button is pushed. When you release the button, the normal glow cycle happens. Again, I have not checked to see if this would work with the BJ60 super glow system; I figured plan old manual would be the best for me.

hth’s and hope this made sense!

gb
Glow#1.jpg
glow#2.jpg
 
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brownbear

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Thanks Greg, that basically tells me all. I am going to try an dive into it after work tomorrow.
just have to go buy a push buttom switch.
 

brownbear

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ok, I am now manual. I did it the same way as Greg explained.

seems to work . my big test will be tomorrow. I ended up buying a decent push button from Napa. and I had to buy a little wire and shrink wrap. All in all spent about 20 dollars in parts/supplies and little less than a half hour to complete. Longest part of the work is getting your tools out and at the vehicle.

That seems to be the simplest way to convert to manual glow plugs, thanks Greg_B
 
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Thanks Greg. That looks like the best and easiest solution to my problem. I'll be rigging that system up as soon as I can.

Mike.
 

brownbear

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to locate the black/red wire in the connecter at the timer my one was the thicker blk/rd. the lower voltage relay(afterglow) was the thin wire. you will see the noticeable difference.

plus it doesn't hurt to do Gregs tip of running a wire from the socket of the blk/red wire and touch it to the battery, you will hear and be able to feel for the right relay. as per his picture.
 
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Cool...or rather...warm...

One should really change out the glow plugs to the manual 12V application, ala this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=24821 on post #14.

I have not yet, and I believe Ciaran said he did not change his out...but you "should".

It's back to the old days of my 1981 BJ42 where I have to glow about 8-10 seconds in the morning to get it going, and hit it a few seconds once in a while after to get the coughing gone, but at least it starts now...

gb
 
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brownbear

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I remember starting that post , longest glow plug discussion ever!

So Greg others mention the Y107R as a 10.5v and also as the replacement for superglows. Thats what I am using now. they were different than the originals. but they should be ok with the longer times on now?. I have heard they will handle the voltage for super extended times.

But is the manual 12v plugs you mention, they should be used. because of the longer times on? so we don't burn out the lower rated units?

I had the best start this morning then I have ever had, it was minus 7 or so, unpluged and not an ounce of smoke. I held the button for about 20 secs.

we need a FAQ section, some of these really good posts should make the list. Thanks for the tech right up again. :)
 
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Dunno BB. I would think the 10.5 will hold up fine...better then the super glow 6V's anyway. The manual 12V plugs from Denso are 10.5-12V. I would like to see the voltage stamped on the side of the NGK Y-147T , as the Y107R match's what I would have thought was needed. A number of sources, including NGK Canada have said that the Y-147T is the correct cross over though.

So...all you repair folks who will install this system on customers Cruisers, and those who will install it on their own...how about calling it the "Wilson Switch". Then in 10 years we can sit around campfires and listen to people talking about a manual over ride that someone hooked up, saying it's call the Wilson switch...and asking..."Why is it called the Wilson Switch?) :D

gb
 
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The full voltage part of my timer has failed so I read this thread and looked at the wiring diagram to make sense of the above mod. I see two potential adendums to the proposed mod. First, what about running the glow plug indicator light directly off the glow plug bus bar? The advantage would be that the indicator lights up whenever power is applied to the glow plugs. The second is to run a NO double pole toggle switch that would activate the primary glow relay in one position and the afterglow relay in the other position. The advantage to this arrangement is that you have complete control (as mentioned) but all the control is housed in a single switch. Do these adendums seem plausible?

Karl
 

brownbear

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personally, I would not bother with afterglow. just use the primary for an afterglow when you're started.

what ever you use for the switch, ensure it turn off when you let go. Otherwise if you leave them on you will cook them possible to molten metal.

having the indicator light off the busbar will only tell you the relay works. Doing it as mentioned above is simple but will not tell you if the relay has stopped. Neither way is going to tell you that the glow plugs work, they could be burnt out.
I know when the glows are getting power based on the nose dive the volt meter does. And the light is not really needed. But does look nice to look at. :)

The light is nice if you use a switch that stays on, it can tell you that you left it on. But with a push button switch its not nessacary.

But its your mod, do as you please. Have mulitple switches and afterglows if you wish.

I like the simplicty of the mod Greg descibes.

Put in 10.5 volt glow plugs, lose the resistor and you will have great starts.

I left the resistor in and have to glow longer. As well use more battery juice.....I will remove it soon.
 
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So which bit is the resistor? The manual is not too clear on this. I had a look last night and the only thing that I suspect might be the resistor is the part of the bus bar that looks like stainless. To bypass that could a fella just solder some ends on a bit of 1 Ga. and run from the post used by the relays?

Karl
 

brownbear

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So which bit is the resistor? The manual is not too clear on this. I had a look last night and the only thing that I suspect might be the resistor is the part of the bus bar that looks like stainless. To bypass that could a fella just solder some ends on a bit of 1 Ga. and run from the post used by the relays?

Karl

The resistor is on the busbar. It's the one for the 6 volt plugs. Which are meant for fast heat and short glow.

The afterglow has a resistor as well, which I think is in the timer box, but I dunno.

To bypass the resistor you may be able to just stack the lead and bar together under the nut that screws into the resistor. And leave the resistor in place.
 
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it will work just fine make sure you wire it up from the main relay to the glow bar if not you will fry the after glow (because 4 will do it, 6 will do it faster)
I have a bj60 was super glow (now manual glow), and im almost 100% sure the hj60 super glow is the same system just 6 plugs instead of 4
 
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i also switched plugs to ngk y-147T they are 10.5 volt and i can start my truck at -45 and fire the plugs for two mins + (it usualy only needs 15 sec to start and run smooth)
 

mike

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I took a voltage reading at the glow bar---glow 8.9 volts and 10.7volts afterglow. Are these reading correct for hj60 24volts system unmodified? Thx
 

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