bj60 did not start this morning.

[haryv]

Im sure this has commup before but basicly went out side waited for light to go out cranked for 7 seconds then stopped. retried again for another 7 seconds and nothing. Not a single cylinder wanted to fire. Did a quick test light check on the top of each glow plug so found thay all got power. Went inside got a half a empty mayo container full of hot water and poured it on the heard. Went back in and went to at least get it out of the way so the wife could leave. Put it in reverse and it kick started with the starter.

I have 4 new glow plugs in the event thay need to be replaced and want to know what the ohm out reading of these plugs would be? When removed do thay actually glow red hot?

If thay check out what might be other issues? It has stated find all day today.


Lastly, who can recomend a very good body sheet metal shop in BC Like Surrey,Delta or richmond bc would be much appricated to repair the side damage to my truck

 

[cody c]

what kind of temp was it this morning?

 

[Diesel Weasel]

Sounds like your glow plugs for sure. I find that I have to replace my 60's plugs about every 1-1.5 yrs, and this is with a manual glow button.

 

[cruiser_guy]

Each plug must be checked individually. Maximum resistance is about 400 ohms. I've used Boyd Auto Body in Tsawwassen for any work on my truck. Peter is the owner there and they come with a really good recommendation.

 

[brownbear]

you had power at the plugs, its not the plugs. It will fire on two plugs.

look at your edic arm. Ensure it is moving while you are cranking.

The edic arm is on the back of the injection pump to the edic motor. it turns the fuel on and off.

Also look at the the engine fuses. You can manually move the arm if you have to. But I think it needs to be disconnected.

It will puff or start with even a single glowplug working. While it might not start up fully, it will smoke and knock. SO if you don't get any of that it is the fuel, or the lack of it.

Start at the edic.

 

[cruiser_guy]

you had power at the plugs, its not the plugs. It will fire on two plugs.

You can measure power (volts) at the plug but if the plugs are all an open circuit it still won't preheat! You need to ohm out the plugs with the buss bar disconnected to KNOW if the plugs are OK.
Yes, it will fire on two plugs, it won't be happy but it will work. I've got mine going in Prince George at -27C on only two plugs.

 

[brownbear]

You can measure power (volts) at the plug but if the plugs are all an open circuit it still won't preheat! You need to ohm out the plugs with the buss bar disconnected to KNOW if the plugs are OK.
Yes, it will fire on two plugs, it won't be happy but it will work. I've got mine going in Prince George at -27C on only two plugs.

True.

my thinking though, is that what it the likely hood of them ALL failing at once? Also if there is fuel, even with out glow it should puff and fart a little. And the hot water on the head should help more.

So if it is completely without a fart or puff, I say the fuel isn't turning on..... anyhow my 2 cents.

But criser_guy is accurate in saying the bus bar needs to be disconnected to check the ohms resistance thru the plugs.

Cheers

 

[iron_giant]

I tend to think its edic related as well. As brownbear stated the likelyhood of all plugs going out at once is not that high. Also, pouring hot water over the head (though I think you would need more hot water than a mayo jar) should make a difference. The fact that it doesn't even sputter makes me think it not getting fuel. My two cents.

 

[kim]

My 86 HJ is 'lumpy' on startup these days, it fires but seems to fire on 3 cylinders, then smooths out over the next 5 or so seconds.

Does this sound like glow plug failure?

 

[haryv]

nice replys. so far is has started.

This was a strange one it was only that one morning and not even a hint a single cylinder wanted to fire. I did not have time to check the edic arm. Know what a edic does and would love to tear one day. The edic is working normally. I changed the oil yesterday after running it with seafoam for a while and after starting with new oil the pressure would not come up after 3 seconds and the engine died. Started again and oil came up and engine ran. I went directly to the napa warehouse in Portkells Surrey to buy 4 new plugs in the event one or more was dead when I test them. Might keep the rest in the event something happens when I am in the states. BTW I am in the future need of possible replacment wheel wells. I have studied the design of the rear wheel wells and looks like inner and outer are spot welded to the inner wall of the truck. Anyone ever replace these before and how much of a headach it would be to replace it? If I have it done or do it my self I will have these dipped in zinc so no more rust. Read once zinc coated parts can be welded but must carry a mask as thay emit toxic gas.

About my body work. If this shop in surrey does not hurrey up might check this shop in Twassan as long as thay have a loaner car.
The ICBC inspector was somewhat of a land cruiser enthusiast and knew these trucks well. Dont know why he recomended corvett specialties of surrey but the owner of that shop should have my used door by now.

BTW tomarro might be a snow day time to get some new tires

 

[brownbear]

My 86 HJ is 'lumpy' on startup these days, it fires but seems to fire on 3 cylinders, then smooths out over the next 5 or so seconds.

Does this sound like glow plug failure?

for sure.

remove the bus bar(wire between plugs) and test each one with a meter.

Or do like I do, spend a 100 bucks or less and just replace them all. Test the indivdual ones later. Might find a good one or two to keep.

 

[brownbear]

This was a strange one it was only that one morning and not even a hint a single cylinder wanted to fire. I did not have time to check the edic arm. Know what a edic does and would love to tear one day. The edic is working normally. I changed the oil yesterday after running it with seafoam for a while and after starting with new oil the pressure would not come up after 3 seconds and the engine died. Started again and oil came up and engine ran. I went directly to the napa warehouse in Portkells Surrey to buy 4 new plugs in the event one or more was dead when I test them. Might keep the rest in the event something happens when I am in the states. BTW I am in the future need of possible replacment wheel wells. I have studied the design of the rear wheel wells and looks like inner and outer are spot welded to the inner wall of the truck. Anyone ever replace these before and how much of a headach it would be to replace it? If I have it done or do it my self I will have these dipped in zinc so no more rust. Read once zinc coated parts can be welded but must carry a mask as thay emit toxic gas.

About my body work. If this shop in surrey does not hurrey up might check this shop in Twassan as long as thay have a loaner car.
The ICBC inspector was somewhat of a land cruiser enthusiast and knew these trucks well. Dont know why he recomended corvett specialties of surrey but the owner of that shop should have my used door by now.

BTW tomarro might be a snow day time to get some new tires

I cut my arches out. welded in new ones.

I paid 600 for the material. If you are not doing it your self, be prepared to spend way too much money.

For what it will cost for a professional job you can go down to the states, buy a rust free cruiser and put in your 3B.

see my thread for the rear arches..https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=52541&highlight=bj60+repaint

If you have time, buy the ccot panels. I bought the 4wheelauto ones. They worked, but not worth the money. The lines on it are too bland and almost disappear.

I'll post more to that thread later. I lost my cruiser pics in my computer. I think I did a dumb move while trying to copy to CD, now none of them will open. But the files are there showing how big they are. I just get an error msg.

Any idea folks......... Ah its an IT question.

 

[kim]

Thank you Brownbear.

 

[83bj60]

BTW I am in the future need of possible replacment wheel wells. I have studied the design of the rear wheel wells and looks like inner and outer are spot welded to the inner wall of the truck. Anyone ever replace these before and how much of a headach it would be to replace it?

I solved the problem on my old 60 sandblasting the rust away then coating the remaining sheet metal with a solution of Flextra caulking diluted in varsol and several layers of fibreglass fabric/resin/flextra/fiberglass... You get the idea. For the 'lip', I used a 6 foot length of 1 inch polyester boating rope dipped in resin before wrapping in fiberglass.

Although the old 60 is falling apart at the body mounts and was retired, this repair has held with no further deterioration for more than 6 years, without even a hint of corrosion.

HTH,

Chris