BJ60 cooling system overhaul

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As preventative maintenance, I decided to overhaul the cooling system on my BJ60/3B. It has the original rad (losing fins on the bottom third) and original hoses, I assume original water pump. I have on order the two rad hoses, a t-stat, and a water pump. What I propose to do this weekend is:
- drain the coolant and flush profusely with water before refilling
- remove the rad and install a nice used one
- replace the two main hoses and any other hoses I can do (the hoses to the rear heater have already been replaced with rubber)
- replace the water pump and keep the original as a spare
- replace thermostat
- replace drive belt

. Anything else I should do while I'm at it? Anything to watch out for (tips and tricks)?
. WHat kind of coolant would you recommend? (I'm not going to drive this truck in the winter)

Thanks!
 
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As preventative maintenance, I decided to overhaul the cooling system on my BJ60/3B. It has the original rad (losing fins on the bottom third) and original hoses, I assume original water pump. I have on order the two rad hoses, a t-stat, and a water pump. What I propose to do this weekend is:
- drain the coolant and flush profusely with water before refilling
- remove the rad and install a nice used one
- replace the two main hoses and any other hoses I can do (the hoses to the rear heater have already been replaced with rubber)
- replace the water pump and keep the original as a spare
- replace thermostat
- replace drive belt

. Anything else I should do while I'm at it? Anything to watch out for (tips and tricks)?
. WHat kind of coolant would you recommend? (I'm not going to drive this truck in the winter)

Thanks!

test the fan-clutch while everything is out.

replace the temp sensor (only a few bucks from toyota).

get a good gasket remover/blade. chances are your old water pump is on there with a paper gasket, and that will have fused to the engine block.

cheers,
j
 
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Loctite 79040 (aka Chisel® Gasket Remover (Methylene Chloride) will clean away any gasket, silicon or paint with no effort and risk of gouging. Just use chemically resistant gloves and ensure good ventalation.
 
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test the fan-clutch while everything is out.

replace the temp sensor (only a few bucks from toyota).

get a good gasket remover/blade. chances are your old water pump is on there with a paper gasket, and that will have fused to the engine block.

cheers,
j

Loctite 79040 (aka Chisel® Gasket Remover (Methylene Chloride) will clean away any gasket, silicon or paint with no effort and risk of gouging. Just use chemically resistant gloves and ensure good ventalation.

Thanks for the tips guys. I'm off to look for some of that gasket remover. I have some sheets of gasket material at home, that I've used in the past to cut gaskets. I assume I can use that for the water pump, if I don't get a gasket with it?

I've read somewhere else that some of the bolts may be rusted and need replacement (thermostat cover).
 

brownbear

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I wouldn't do any of that myself.

I would only change the hoses and the t-stat.

I would check the bearing on the waterpump. The rad I would just clean it out with a hose from the backside.

Then I would pressure test it all and be done. The fan clutch might be worth while. Toyota sells the silicon for overhauling it yourself.
 
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I wouldn't do any of that myself.

I would only change the hoses and the t-stat.

I would check the bearing on the waterpump. The rad I would just clean it out with a hose from the backside.

Then I would pressure test it all and be done. The fan clutch might be worth while. Toyota sells the silicon for overhauling it yourself.

Well, I have a very nice used rad in much better condition than mine, and mine being original and a bit damaged, I'd feel better having the better one in there, while I'm at it. Ditto for water pump, though I suppose I could alternately keep the new one as a spare, if/when the original one goes.

I'll look at the fan clutch, as advised. Thanks.
 
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Definitely check the water pump I had one blow out on me at around 450,000km, better to do it now.

Also have you been reading up on the various threads on waterless coolant? Something to SERIOUSALLY look into if your allready going to have everything apart, with your rebuild and this new coolant you should never have to touch anything on the cooling system ever again.
 
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In regards to the rad. rstl99 mentioned that the fins on his rad were falling out at the bottom. Wouldn't it make sense to replace it? With the fins beginning to fall out wouldn't the rad not be as efficient on transferring the heat from the coolant? But I guess it all depends how bad the rad actually is.
I agree with brownbear abuot the waterpump. Check the bearing and if it's good and the pump isn't leaking keep your old one on.
One other thing I can recommend is to pressure check the rad cap and make sure that it's still good. It's often overlooked.
 
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Definitely check the water pump I had one blow out on me at around 450,000km, better to do it now.

Also have you been reading up on the various threads on waterless coolant? Something to SERIOUSALLY look into if your allready going to have everything apart, with your rebuild and this new coolant you should never have to touch anything on the cooling system ever again.

No I haven't read on that (yet!). :confused: I just bought a couple of gallons of the yellow coolant, but did notice that they had some "Diesel Coolant" (red) for sale, which had me pondering momentarily. I assume what you're referring to is something different.

In regards to the rad. rstl99 mentioned that the fins on his rad were falling out at the bottom. Wouldn't it make sense to replace it? With the fins beginning to fall out wouldn't the rad not be as efficient on transferring the heat from the coolant? But I guess it all depends how bad the rad actually is.
I agree with brownbear abuot the waterpump. Check the bearing and if it's good and the pump isn't leaking keep your old one on.
One other thing I can recommend is to pressure check the rad cap and make sure that it's still good. It's often overlooked.

Thanks. Indeed, the bottom third of the rad has lost a fair amount of fins, which is why I want to replace it with the (almost new looking) used rad I have. THe original may take me to Tierra del Fuego and back, but why take the chance for the sake of a couple of hours of wrenching in my driveway ;)

Yes, good idea to check the rad cap. I think there is a relatively new on on there but I'll double check.

:cheers:
 

AJAEbj42

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No I haven't read on that (yet!). :confused: I just bought a couple of gallons of the yellow coolant, but did notice that they had some "Diesel Coolant" (red) for sale, which had me pondering momentarily. I assume what you're referring to is something different.



Thanks. Indeed, the bottom third of the rad has lost a fair amount of fins, which is why I want to replace it with the (almost new looking) used rad I have. THe original may take me to Tierra del Fuego and back, but why take the chance for the sake of a couple of hours of wrenching in my driveway ;)

Yes, good idea to check the rad cap. I think there is a relatively new on on there but I'll double check.

:cheers:
Hi There,

I flushed and changed my coolant on my 3B this past fall. On a GMC truck I once owned, I had the terrible experience when I changed the coolant, the seals went almost immediately on my water pump. Not sure if it was the PH (acidity) of the water or I was using or the wrong coolant, but what I did for the 3B was use a coolant for older engines (for the life of me I cannot remember the brand, sorry) and I mixed it with DISTILLED WATER (about $3 for 4 litres from any drugstore). So far, it's been just fine. I hate coolant leaks, so I'm not sure if these two things helped, but I thought I would pass it on. Living in Ottawa, I'd still make sure the coolant will stand a -30 degree temp unless you store the rig in a heated garage.

Remember when flushing the coolant out to turn your heat on and the fan on to make sure the flushing really circulates well through the heater core also (unless you are using a flushing machine).

Change the T'stat, rad cap, are also good ideas. I'd keep the waterpump as a spare and keep the old one on. The radiator is a good idea; might as well give the old engine as much help keeping cool as possible.

Hope this helps; just some of my experiences.
Cheers,
Rob
 
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I flushed and changed my coolant on my 3B this past fall. On a GMC truck I once owned, I had the terrible experience when I changed the coolant, the seals went almost immediately on my water pump. Not sure if it was the PH (acidity) of the water or I was using or the wrong coolant, but what I did for the 3B was use a coolant for older engines (for the life of me I cannot remember the brand, sorry) and I mixed it with DISTILLED WATER (about $3 for 4 litres from any drugstore). So far, it's been just fine. I hate coolant leaks, so I'm not sure if these two things helped, but I thought I would pass it on. Living in Ottawa, I'd still make sure the coolant will stand a -30 degree temp unless you store the rig in a heated garage.

Thanks for the tips, Rob! I picked up a couple of gallons of yellow antifreeze on sale at Cdn Tire (Motormaster long-life, good for 5 years or 250,000 kms according to the jug). Indeed, since I park the truck outside during winter, I'll make sure I have sufficient - degree coverage!

Remember when flushing the coolant out to turn your heat on and the fan on to make sure the flushing really circulates well through the heater core also (unless you are using a flushing machine).

I might need a bit of guidance here. I was going to drain the rad and engine block, then install a tee fitting I bought which allows tapping into the heater lines, and attach a garden hose for flushing (ie run water through until it comes out clear). I suppose what you indicate is that I will need to start the truck after refilling with water, let the engine run and warm up, then run the heater/fan while pushing water through?:hmm:

Change the T'stat, rad cap, are also good ideas. I'd keep the waterpump as a spare and keep the old one on. The radiator is a good idea; might as well give the old engine as much help keeping cool as possible.

I attach a couple of pictures of my rad so you can see the bottom part that makes me want to replace it.;)

Cheers!
 
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AJAEbj42

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Hmm, what I did was drain the coolant from the rad, being the low point it should also drain most of the engine as well. I then filled it up with water from the garden hose (closed the rad drain of course), let it warm up for a good long time (about 20 minutes; the key thing is the thermostat has to open to get the coolant flowing, you may be able to see this if you leave the rad cap off with the engine running, but don't stick your head too close in case it 'burps' because of an air bubble being circulated), with the heater running and fan. I repeated this 3 times until the drain was almost clear. Your garden hose idea might accomplish the same even better. I would recommend getting the engine up to temperature though to really 'flush out' any spots that might not get flushed with the garden hose piped in, but that's about as much advice as I have; perhaps others may know better techniques.

I think mixing the coolant 60/40 with water gives the best protection, but best to read the label. I think the 'waterless' coolants talked about in a previous post are the 'pre-mixed' variety where you don't need to add more water.
 

brownbear

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yah change the rad. It looks odd. Take the old one and have it rebuilt.

Skip the yellow coolant.Especially if you have green in there now. Just buy heavy duty ethalene glycol normal coolant. Easily compatible with all green coolants. Most common. I buy Napa heavy duty.


Cnd tire used to make a diesel coolant, but since canceled it. So I don't buy their coolant any more.

A BJ60 has a lot of heater hoses so if you change coolant types take your time flushing the system with water.
 
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yah change the rad. It looks odd. Take the old one and have it rebuilt.

Skip the yellow coolant.Especially if you have green in there now. Just buy heavy duty ethalene glycol normal coolant. Easily compatible with all green coolants. Most common. I buy Napa heavy duty.

A BJ60 has a lot of heater hoses so if you change coolant types take your time flushing the system with water.

Thanks for the recommendation on coolant. I _do_ have green in there now, so will return the Cdn Tire stuff and go Napa. Indeed, the rad needs to go and could be rebuilt for a good spare.

keep the new waterpump as a spare IMOP.......of course my opinion. I would not change it just because.

That seems to be the consensus, so after checking out the bearing and such, I'll indeed leave the original on. The spare will go with me if I ever take that cross-continent trip one day!

Thanks, all!:cheers:
 
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The EVANS looks real good, When the rad is redone , use the TOYOTA RED, or try the Waterless EVANS coolent if your 3B runs hot, I never understood puting cheap Crappy TIRE brand and no name oils into a motor that has outlasted 3 other brand motors already. Sorry for the rant, I have never understood people spending money rebuilding stuff and then saving a few bucks by running cheap coolent or oils Hope everything is going well for the 60, I see that you are going to run the good stuff AWESOME
 
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Whew, that was a heck of a job!
Removed old rad and shroud. Treated rust spots underneath, in the front of the truck. Tested viscous fan clutch ok. Tested water pump bearing ok. Cleaned thermostat housing. Replaced thermostat and both gaskets (after removing old gasket). Replaced all hoses and hose clamps. Cleaned shroud and repainted (did NOT cut it in half, it was thinned out by rust). Cleaned pulley and repainted. Cleaned waterpump and front of engine (grease, dirt). Cleaned and molycoated all bolts before reinstalling. Flushed the system profusely in all directions. Couldn't for the life of me find the engine drain plug (have a feeling someone put a block heater in its place), so ran the engine with water, with all heaters on, and drained and refilled the rad twice with water, until what came out was almost clear. Drained it out, and put in 2 jugs of Cdn Tire HD Diesel coolant (red), topped up with water, ran, and no leaks... Too tired to clean up, will do it tomorrow. True to self, a job that might take someone else 4 hours takes me 8. Nitpicky to detail, and take my time so I don't screw up and have to tear apart again. Satisfying to look at a much cleaner and neater engine bay as a result, and confidence in a cooling system that's almost as good as new, and dependable. Pictures attached of before and after.
 
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