BJ60 Air Leaks Only When Cold (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Nov 23, 2020
Threads
2
Messages
54
Location
British Columbia
So I've spent a fair bit of time scrolling on the forums looking at how most solved this issue and have a pretty good bearing on where to go but I'm hoping I can get some educated guess' what the culprit could be..

My new to me '84 Bj60 has been an absolute trooper this year, bought it on Vancouver Island when I was trying SO HARD to get something a little more modern and turn key and less of a project than my '74 40 series ... I guess it's new enough :yuck:. Anyway, put down about 20k-ish kilometers and she needs some lovin'. Recently I've been having air leak issues, replaced the primer pump with a Bosch unit and thought I had solved it but after a couple weeks it stalled on warm up - after an hour of priming I finally got it going and made it back home.

So it runs fine when the weather is fairly warm, about zero Celsius and up, but soon as it gets -5 or colder I get air leaks until I get it warm enough that it goes away.. Once it's at operating temp the issue is gone for the rest of the day I can leave it off for several hours and get in and go with no dramas. I found one thread that someone was talking about heated fuel filters have an o-ring that can cause leaks but that was 80 series related - note sure if the same can be said for a 3B?

With all that being said, if it goes away after the truck warms up, this would tell me whatever the leak is it's somewhere under the hood? I've read a lot of threads that people found their leaks around the fuel tank but I can't see that being my case. My plan is to get to the fuel filter, check the fuel line off the banjo fitting, and water separator - every time I bleed the air out first thing in the morning the initial spit of fuel looks pretty nasty. I'll be tackling this in the next couple days, hopefully someone with a little more toyota diesel knowledge can diagnose my dilemma from their end of a computer 🤞
 
Screw off, screw on.. nothing to change over.

If you disturb any of the banjos be sure to replace the crush washers, front and back. Also, one of the banjos will have a gauze mesh inside it - usually lift pump inlet, its worth cleaning - if you have crush washers ready to replace when reinstalling.
I was mainly going after the gauze mesh, but I suppose it's worth doing them all for the sake of knowing they're good. Can you not re-anneal the crush washers and reuse? I found a few threads that suggested annealing the used washers, but if it's easier/safer to just replace I'll do that if I can find a good source for crush washers.. hopefully locally but I imagine I'll have to turn to one of the online cruiser vendors. I won't touch the banjos until I get a bit more 'know how'.
 
Screw off, screw on.. nothing to change over.

If you disturb any of the banjos be sure to replace the crush washers, front and back. Also, one of the banjos will have a gauze mesh inside it - usually lift pump inlet, its worth cleaning - if you have crush washers ready to replace when reinstalling.
I was mainly going after the gauze mesh, but I suppose it's worth doing them all for the sake of knowing they're good. Can you not re-anneal the crush washers and reuse? I found a few threads that suggested annealing the used washers, but if it's easier/safer to just replace I'll do that if I can find a good source for crush washers.. hopefully locally but I imagine I'll have to turn to one of the online cruiser vendors. I won't touch the banjos until I get a bit more 'know how'.
 
Wrong filter has been returned but Lordco did not have the right replacement, gave me a part number for napa but they are closed so that's tomorrows task. This has been racking my brain all week so today I'm leaving the tools put away and having another inspection of all the lines and fittings. This is usually when I start getting squirrelly trying to solve the issue and start wrenching on all the wrong things so taking a step back and running through the basics again before I do something stupid 😮‍💨
 
You can get filters from Toyota still. Radd cruisers and 4wheel auto, EBI etc all likely stock these things.

My cross over pipe isn’t worth a dime. Really rough….Sorry. Try Dan. He generally has lots of good parts
 
Keep in mind that the fuel system is under vac from fuel tank to hand priming pump.
Including the fuel injector leak line to hand priming pump.
There is a non-return valve after the hand priming pump.
Right after the hand priming pump, in the same housing, there is the fuel feed pump (booster pump) actuated by the fuel injection pump camshaft. There too is another non-return valve. The feed pump keep the fuel system pressurized so the injection doesn’t suffer from cavitation.

Hence you won’t have an « air leak » after the hand priming pump to the injectors but a fuel leak.

There is many connections between hard steel line and flexible rubber line, the clamp may be weak…
I think it happen to someone that the fuel pick up was the culprit.

So I was just rereading lacalvette's post while hovering over the engine bay (I'm more of a visual learner) and looked at the clamp that was holding the rubber return line ... "the clamp may be weak.." .. clamp seemed snug but was able to spin the fuel line around the fitting - couple of socket spins and now its proper tight. What are the chances that was the culprit?
 
You can get filters from Toyota still. Radd cruisers and 4wheel auto, EBI etc all likely stock these things.

My cross over pipe isn’t worth a dime. Really rough….Sorry. Try Dan. He generally has lots of good parts
I couldn't find the right filter on Radd cruisers website so I'm sending him an email tonight, I know he's got a 60 from picking up parts so I'm sure he's got some filters kicking around! I was actually planning on taking the truck to EBI when I head to the lower mainland to do an overall inspection so worst case scenario I'm sure they could find it in no time. I do still have to call Steve to see if he can fit me in though.

All good! I'll give him a shot
 
I got way too curious. Bled as much air as I could, got to the point of one bubble every dozen pumps and then called it good enough after 20 pumps without anything. Fired up and let it idle with a cardboard sheet in front of the rad.. idled for a good 20 minutes with no hiccups - would usually pick up air by now 🧐. Hop in to take it around the block and the clutch pedal falls with zero pressure, master has no fluid - TERRIFIC :bang: I tossed some fluid in and was able to get a little bit of pressure at the bottom end with a couple pumps so I double clutched around the block with no issues besides my double clutch skills, or lack thereof.

I'll give it one more try tomorrow morning when it's a bit colder without priming to confirm, but it seems like it might be that simple.. fix an air leak, lose a clutch 🤣
 
Clutch Master and Slave are cheap parts.. well at least in Australia, I'd just go ahead and change both, and the flexible line if you can a suitable replacement - any brake shop could knock one up for you.
 
Clutch Master and Slave are cheap parts.. well at least in Australia, I'd just go ahead and change both, and the flexible line if you can a suitable replacement - any brake shop could knock one up for you.
Yeah there's an online shop that's based here in town that I can order both parts for pick up. Slave is 90 bucks and master is 125.
 
-9 this morning and ran for 20 minutes with no issues 🥳🙌 unless I have any issues in much colder conditions, I think that clamp did it! Jeez I would never have guessed that to be the problem
I have been having a similar issue though on a 1HZ. Air leak from somewhere. Hope you found the culprit.
 
So far she hasn't given me any more issues. Pretty sure that one clamp was the source of my dramas. I'd double and triple check all your connections. Give the rubber line a slight twist to see if there's any movement. That's what I did to the return line at the pump housing (not sure if that's the right term but you get what I mean) and it spun freely despite the clamp "felt good"
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom