BJ42 (3B w/ 264,000km) questions on rack setting

[stardotstar]

Hi Diesel gang, I have just bought a 3B BJ42 LX and some issues I am resolving. Very low on power so I took it to a diesel fitter and he took a drive and thought it could be injectors and pump - the pump is original and he doesn't think the injectors have been done but the seller told me he had - so probably not!

anyway... Here is a bit from my purchasing review thread about where I am at with the 3B and some questions about where to from here:

Before commiting to a recon I started chatting to him about a diagnostic approach to see what could be done in the mean time. This is the outcome of that discussion.

1) I did an oil change. She bled 6.7l of very black oil and I replaced it with Fuchs Titan ultralube 15W40 diesel oil - she tool 6.5 and then another 2 or 3 hundred ml after the motor was turned over.
2) Replaced the oil filter : Z9
3) Replaced the air filter
4) Replaced the fuel filter z169a

Took her for a burl, immediately running a bit free'r - breating better and needed the oil change I reckon.

Once up the road I cracked the rack lock nut and opened her out just under 1/4 turn (counter Clockwise) and reseated the nut.

No black smoke and the power had definitely improved

Around the block and again another full 1/4 turn out - still no smoke and appreciable better depth in 1st and second.

I have eventually left it advanced 3/4 of a turn from where I started today and she is completely different to drive - still no smoke - idles well and does not need to be revved out to get some momentum going...

Questions:

1) How much should I go when gently making this adjustment - I know that I can damage the engine if I push it too far..

2) Will the injector, diaphragm, compression day of work be worth while or should I save my $$s for the clutch Can I do this bit myself??

3) Can I get confirmation that the oil I selected is good - I am going to do a second change in 3000km and then only do it every 5-7k but that will give me a starting point.

4) What tyre pressure do people recommend - the handbook seems to suggest 24psi front and 28psi rear - I used to run 15 off road and 30 onroad allround for the Jeep... Any thoughts>

5) I filled her up with 50 L of diesel - are there any additives I should consider at this time to help clean the engine out or anything? It has an 85L tank - is there any point in completely draining it (carrying some fuel and doing a roadside prime/bleed) to ensure that it is all fresh or will that mean **** and gunk get into the motor?? I would like to confirm how much the tank capacity is and what sort of economy I am getting.

Thanks DieselMUD in advance,

Will

 

[bigbrowndog]

Just wondering can you tell me if the adjustment nut for the fuel pump had a tie on it to lock the position it was calibrated at when it was set? Did you or the previous owner remove the wire tie and is the pump now set at a better setting than what it was set at on the test bench? Are you sure the pump need adjusting or your injectors need reconditioning as they should be checked every 12 to 18 months. Adjusting the pump does not correct a leaking injector or one with a poor spray pattern or drip.cheers

 

[brisveganbj42]

will.. something i should of mentioned on 3rdrock..

when i got my injectors service i immediately noticed a lot more peppiness ..
its was like it was more responsive .. even the mechanic mentioned it too..

could be a contributing factor to why it has no pickup.

 

[stardotstar]

OK guys thanks for that:

BBD: There is and was no lock wire and the original owner told me that the pump had been done - likely a calibration on the bench - and that the injectors had been done at the same time. Not sure when and my diesel fitter when looking at it thought it might have been worked on (missing wire) but that it certainly hadn/t been replaced (original 1983 toyota pump) and that the injectors didn't look like they had been cleaned...

The setting the rack adjustment screw was on was the original position that left the vehicle with no power - really just revving through the gears and without any poke at all. Drivable but certainly a worry compared to what I am led to believe about this plant.

The PO let me know that when the pump had been "done" for the owner before that the mechanic at that time had told her that the rack was screwed in (no Idea why) and that she should come back to have it opened up - apparently she didn't mind it and loved the fuel economy so it never got done.

I have progressively opened it up 270' and found at each turn much better, smoother and punchier performance without any change in exhaust output - ie she has never blown more than a slight puff of black on starting.,,

Sounds like it is worth taking her in for an injector check at the very least - or can I do that myself>?>??

Will

 

[stardotstar]

I have retarded it a half turn - so it is only open from the original position 1/4.

I'll see how it goes today.

I removed the radiator hose from the engine thermostat inlet and felt inside and there does appear to be a thermostat inside... (I was told it had been removed and the gauge is reading C)

the coolant is brown and might need changing but I can't seem to find the engine drain cock - the manual says it is on the front left of the block but the picture shows it at the rear left side of the engine bay on the block - is it a convention that the front of the engine is at the rear of the bay (in rear wheel vehicles - where the drive output is I am guessing??)

 

[stardotstar]

Well its all good. I ended up with the rack left at 1/2 advanced from where it had been since the rig ran smooth and cool all day, even towing and had far less need to be flat to the boards in each gear so I will maintain that there till a diesel mech can have a look.

I did a thorough flush of the radiator system; drained, flushed with clean water, filled and added radiator cleanser, ran it for 45mins, drained, flushed and then filled with 50/50 distilled water and quality coolant. It took about 9L.

I also noted that the temp gauge is working - as I noticed before it goes from dead stop to about 1 needle thickness over C and then barely another thickness when doing normal driving.

I did a trailer load to the tip today to sus out the trailer lights and how it towed - couldn't even tell it was there of course (sweet!)

I also put a bottle of diesel injector cleaner into the tank.
I will also follow this with another when the tank gets down to 1/4 this time around and then leave it.

All in all I think it is going to be right as rain - I'll just have a diesel mech have a look at the timing and injectors etc this week and then stop worrying - do regular oil, air and fuel and save my dollars for what's to come!

 

[grumpy]

Stardot ,

The block drain is on the left rear ,hidden by the edict motor .Unplug edict ,detatch edict rod ,remove three bolts (12 mm ) and remove edict and you will see it .Drain plug is 14mm .Be prepared and bring a dictionary ,as you'll need new swear words for one of the edict bolts if its corroded in the block .

grumpy

 

[stardotstar]

She's running fine - loving it.

Opening the rack has been good as has doing a coolant change - didn't manage to get the engine drain done Grumpy - just flushed the radiator thoroughly. Thanks for the pointer though.

She's going to a diesel fitter tomorrow and he will give the 3B an appraisal hopefully not having to recommend too much expense.

Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[brisveganbj42]

swapped out edics tonight.. it wasn't too hard a job.. only took 10mins! so you shouldn't have too much drama

 

[stardotstar]

Had the injectors changed.

They were the original ones he reckons - ND Brand hasn't been made for 15 years - so they were at least that old - here are some pics of the state they were in.

Running much smoother now - especially at higher speeds.

Power climbing appreciably as the rack is opened - I am doing it very slowly and monitoring engine temp (still stays well below 1/4-1/3) and for any sign of black smoke - none so far and she is starting to haul...

 

[stardotstar]

Now I am getting to know her a bit better I can provide some more useful observations and I invite comments:

1) Having been observing the engine temp carefully and since the injectors were replaced, the drive belts changed and all the fluids done, I ended up with the rack open about 1 full turn out from the default gutless setting it had when I got it.

2) Under load, on a grade, when nearly flat to the boards in 2nd and 3rd she is blowing a bit of black smoke. Not white (from what I can tell since it is not belching the stuff so it is not that destinct) but appears to be from too much fuel, so I closed the rack by 1/4 and it is still there and power was a bit down.

3) Now I will close progressively until the smoke stops and I end up with the user adjustment point that I can live with (don't wan't to blow smoke out all around town...)

So given that everything is otherwise ok - new injectors, engine pressure is tested ok - and she is running smooth, always starting and idling at around 550 (650 with aircon on) and cool - about 1/4 - what can I do/expect to get out of her?

I figure that she could use bigger tyres because it seems very revvie in 1st and 2nd and still has useful rev range in 5th - but then if the power isn't there in the low gears maybe going from 28 to 30" tyres will not work well. I figure she should be able to be bearable on up to 31s if the engine is hauling properly.

Maybe it is the effective down gearing of using the smaller tyre that is part of the whole problem but I am mindful of the smoke and fiddling with the rack too much.

am I right in thinking that the only other thing I can do is have the fuel pump removed and calibrated - and will that actually improve performance?

Cheers for any ideas guys!

Will

 

[grumpy]

Now I am getting to know her a bit better I can provide some more useful observations and I invite comments:

2) Under load, on a grade, when nearly flat to the boards in 2nd and 3rd she is blowing a bit of black smoke.

3) Now I will close progressively until the smoke stops and I end up with the user adjustment point that I can live with (don't wan't to blow smoke out all around town...)



Maybe it is the effective down gearing of using the smaller tyre that is part of the whole problem but I am mindful of the smoke and fiddling with the rack too much.

am I right in thinking that the only other thing I can do is have the fuel pump removed and calibrated - and will that actually improve performance?

Cheers for any ideas guys!

Will[


For what it's worth .

The bloke told you that the pump and injectors were done .
The injectors weren't , and looking at the pump I'd almost eat my hat if its been touched . A rebuild will have stamps marks on it as a rule .

You can play with the smoke screw till the cows come home ,but if the prestroke on one plunger is out it will smoke and be down on power .

Rebuild will set you back about $800 . Shop around .
I do my own .

The critical part is setting the prestroke as this determines when injection on any given cylinder starts . This is where a VE pump has an advantage .New delivery valves wont hurt at 265' km either .

To remove pump is only four nuts and the injector lines . The pump will only go back on one way due to the key on the drive gear so you can R/R yourself .If you need help to spill time the pump just ask .


grumpy

 

[stardotstar]

Grumpy, thanks for that ! I was told by the guy who replaced the injectors that they had never been touched - which puts paid to the seller's story!

As for the pump everyone tells me that the $800 is due to remove and refit and calibration on a Test Bench... Is this special instruments or is it just a matter of knowing what to do - how wrong can you get it?? Will I need parts? Should I take the chance and have a go at this? With photos and advice I am prepared to give anything a try as long as it is not a stupid thing to attempt. I have the factory manual for the 3B and am reading it carefully to see what I can make of it. I also have an aftermarket manual for the whole vehicle coming.

Sorry but what is a VE pump and can I just buy and fit delivery valves...??

Thanks mate!

Will