BJ40 - Starter stuck on (1 Viewer)

[Ranger Loki]

Here is the story...

Starter motor was stuck ON (running all the time), and it pretty much wrecked the starter motor, and the fusible links. I have replaced the starter motor, replaced the fusible links, but now the NEW starter motor is still stuck in the ON (running all the time) position!

Things that have been checked...

1) ignition switch: fully disassembled, and inspected, it works like it is supposed to.
2) Starter Relay: works with 12V (didn't have two batteries to check it with 24V)

I have read that a bad ground can cause the starter to run all the time like this? Does any body have a solution from a similar problem?

I hope the wiring harness is not melted or something...
Thoughts?

 

[stevebradford]

You have a wiring issue as I'm sure you know... sounds to me like your starter relay is getting powered from somewhere. here is a wiring diagram hope it helps.

 

[tornio]

hi , like stevebradfor said your starter relay is probally getting powered .

if the starter motor is running all the time means that the plunger / selenoid is getting powered or it is stuck but you say that it is new so the first is probally the right one

the plunger :

get the power from the relay and the latter get the power from the starter switch :

so disconnect this relay (ALL THE WIRE ) and having all the 2 battery connected check the wire coming from the starter switch (from the key ST on the w.d.) you have to check if there is 24v when you turn the key (to fire the engine) and check that this voltage drop to zero when the key is released.

if so the switch is ok.

then you have to check if this relay doesn't stuck in on position when you disconnect the excitement.
in order to check that you must have 24v, to be sure is not enought hear the " clic clac " connect a multimeter (CONTINUITY MODE) at the terminal going to the starter selenoid (2 on w.d.) and at the terminal 1

also check if there is isolation between terminal 1 and ther other two (2 and ST)

if also the relay is ok means that the plunger is getting power from an another source.... double check the wire from relay to the plunger
check the plunger if it is free , maybe better if you can perform these test having the starter motor on the bench...

good luck

 

[Ranger Loki]

Dear Steve (Cute dogs in your avatar)
and
Dear Torino,

Thanks for your replies :0)

I have now learned a great deal more info. It appears that this problem is linked to my EDIC fuel control relay. I had recently disassembled replaced the circuit board of this electronic unit, with a aftermarket circuit board with new solid state relays from a guy in Czechoslovakia. Turns out he send me the wrong wiring diagram with the EDIC relay, and this caused a capacitor component on the circuit board to burn up and let out all the magic smoke. This was causing a short circuit, and this was pulling the starter solenoid ON all the time.

I started down the path of fixing my old starter motor, and I did replace the plunger, and the contacts as you suggested... but then I also bought a new starter motor, as my old one was a little worn in the bearings. It always helps to keep a spare! So now, I have two (2) starter motors.

I'm waiting for a replacement EDIC fuel control relay circuit board, and a CORRECT wiring diagram to accompany it, and then I will put the whole thing back together again, and see if it works with the starter hopefully not locked ON all the time. I've been a long long time with no cruising in the Land Cruiser :0(

Cheers,
Sean

 

[duncanrm]

Sean,

If you're keen to get back on the road.. you can disconnect the entire EDIC setup (pop the rod off the Fuel Control Lever) and just drive the vehicle.. you'll have to stall the vehicle to stop it. Alternatively you can also fit a permanent "Stop Cable" to replace the EDIC altogether. There's plenty of threads here on Stop Cables..

For what its worth, the starter circuit on an HJ47 is completely independent of the EDIC circuit.. so I'm not 100% sure you're on the right track to be honest.

 

[Ranger Loki]

Dear DuncanRM,

Yes, I could do a Stop cable, but I am keen to have the key to turn things off, and to keep the low oil pressure cut-off. Basically, I want it the way the Toyota Engineers designed it.

The starter system and the EDIC system are very separate things, I agree, however they do share a link, as seen in the above wiring diagram. See where it says: "To EDIC Controller ST [C24]". My short circuit is on the EDIC circuit board, energizing this wire, causing the starter relay to be always ON, and this causes the starter motor to be always ON, and then you have my issue.

It has taken me about 4 months to figure all of this out. UG.

It is nice to have folks to talk with about all of this :0)

Cheers,
Loki.

 

[stevebradford]

The 12vdc Edic is still available new from japan not sure about the 24v its special order and not cheep. I ordered one to Canada for 460$ A push pull cable can allow the motor to run in reverse potentially (Diesel Engines Will Run Backwards ! - Yellow Bullet Forums) if stalled on a hill or bumped in a parking lot. Normally the edic would shut it off due to low oil pressure.

 

[duncanrm]

The starter system and the EDIC system are very separate things, I agree, however they do share a link, as seen in the above wiring diagram.

You're of course right. I was wrong.

 

[tornio]

happy you found the culprit ! something had to energize this blessed relay !! and our toy are so simple in the electric zone.