Birf disassembly Qs (1 Viewer)

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Hello again! I've got the parts and am ready to go. Just need a little advice/tips on how best to disassemble the birfs and reassemble them. Other than that, I think I'm good to go. I plan on cleaning everything in Kerosene using a brass brush where necessary. Hopefully, that's alright. If not, let me know!:)
Thanks!
 
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someone should point you to the FAQ sticky thread at the top - so I will :cheers:
 
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Are you seperating the inner axle shaft from the outer axle shaft and swapping the outer shafts from side to side?

For dissassembly of the shafts from one another there appear to be two methods.
One, use a table vise grip to hold the inner axle shaft and beat the outer axle shaft off using a hammer and a brass drift. There is a locking c-clip on the end of the inner axle shaft that resides inside the birfield cavity and you have to beat it into submission. It should come out still attached to the inner shaft. Remove it and replace with a new one.

Two, you could get some black pipe (heavy metal), at least the length of the longer inner axle. About 5 feet should do it. The pipe will need to be at least 1 3/4" inner diameter, so you probably have to get 2" pipe. Place a rag in one end of the pipe and lower the inner axle shaft into the pipe until the outer birfield rests on top. Through a very scientific process, raise the pipe and slam it down on some concrete. You may very well crack the concrete, so plan on this. Through great force, the inner shaft will drop out from the outer shaft. The rag helps protect the falling shaft end from damage. The longer inner axle was much easier for me, as it is heavier. It took me many tries for ther shorter inner axle, but it finally worked. When I do it again, I'm trying the vice grip method.

Now, have a beer and celebrate!

Cdan said he does not / did not break the birfield apart, as in remove the inner race and bearing balls. I did pull the birf all the way apart, but probably would not next time. Be sure to pack the inside of the birfield with moly fortified grease. Pack it well. Pay cose attention to how it comes apart and do only one at a time in case you forget how something went together, you can replicate it back when doing the other one, but can not if it is already dissasembled. Want to guess how I figured that out? Dan told me when I called him!!:whoops:

Any other questions?

Rob
 
Joined
Mar 31, 2005
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Jenny Cruiser said:
Hello again! I've got the parts and am ready to go. Just need a little advice/tips on how best to disassemble the birfs and reassemble them. Other than that, I think I'm good to go. I plan on cleaning everything in Kerosene using a brass brush where necessary. Hopefully, that's alright. If not, let me know!:)
Thanks!


I would stay away from the kerosene, just me anyway. I used this gnarly engine type degreaser (napthalene), and all it did was take forever to clean the parts, and ate the $15 gloves I bought from Home Depot. Go to Harbor Freight (if you live n Ft Collins, it is just past where the parts washers are), and get a 1 gallon jug of this 'purple' non toxic colored cleaning fluid they carry. The stuff at full strenght makes short work of grease in the birf's. I used this the second time I tore the knuckles down. Holy crap, what a DIFFERENCE! Easily twice as fast, and did not get choked by any fumes. You could use a toothbrush and get the things spotless I now use this on my Cruiser and bicycles. Good stuff, contains 'silicates' I think. Anyway, that is the recommended degreasing fluid I have seen mentioned in other birf writeups I studied before doing mine.

The pipe trick for braking the birf stubs. I believe I bought a sched 40 galvanized pipe 2.5" from Home Depot (make it long enough to accomodate the longside axle, with several inches to spare).

Putting the stubs back on the opposite sides has been recommended.

I assume you have an FSM, but just make sure the flat side of the inner cage is facing toward the inner axle. They can apparently be put together either way...............however they will only rotate with the flat side toward the outside of the knuckle (ie: toward the diff).

Put some cardboard under the knuckle, cause it will be a mess if seals are bad. Also, are you replacing trunion bearings. That was the reason I had to do mine twice!

The other thing I would recommend is making some 'studs' out of screws with the heads removed. Getting all the spindle and gaskets and brake shield back on can be an experience. The hole pattern only fits one way, but is difficult if you are doing this solo for the first time.

Good luck, not really technical, just dirty and tedious. If you get frustrated, feel free to behave like a child and swear a lot. That works for me anyway. After this work, You will be connected to your Cruiser for life. Well not really, but it sounds dramatic, and a good way to end this post.

Chris

94 FZJ80 142K Locked 2.5 OME 285's DD Pin 7
 
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Thanks!

Thanks for everyone's help. I'm looking forward to pulling this thing apart tomorrow. This will be my first big job. I just hope I don't break anything. :)
 
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Does the "Marlin Tack" procedure apply to the 80 series, or is that a 40 series only thing? Right offhand, I can't think of any reason it wouldn't, 'Cruiser axles don't seem to have changed very much in 30+ years. One time spliiting my thumb open trying to remove the 40's birfs convinced me to do it in that case.

Tony
 
Joined
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Jenny Cruiser said:
Thanks for everyone's help. I'm looking forward to pulling this thing apart tomorrow. This will be my first big job. I just hope I don't break anything. :)

Chad,
Tried to send a PM. Keep losing my Login. Let me know if you got it or not

Chris
 

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