BillyGoat - pretty much mine… (1 Viewer)

[RevISK]

I’m at a loss for what to do now.

Put this baby to rest and get back to my 40 I guess.

 

[bcolvin]

Naw throw in some shims and see how it goes. Worst case scenario you are out a few bucks. It’s a bit of a pain but go for it.

 

[RevISK]

Naw throw in some shims and see how it goes. Worst case scenario you are out a few bucks. It’s a bit of a pain but go for it.

I just pulled the 4* shims out while the driveshaft was getting worked on. It is a pain. If I put them back in I’ll be about 3.5* out of parallel, flange wise.

I wish I would’ve waited to pull the shims until after I put the refreshed ds in. Oh well.

 

[RevISK]

So now I’m wondering if the phasing is incorrect.
When I pulled the ds the yokes were 90* from each other, as I’m researching I’m finding the opposite is true according to the FSM. For some dumb reason, my copy of the FSM lists the Propeller Shaft section but it’s greyed out and not included.


How it was prior to pulling.

From another thread

I really thought I read that they were supposed to be offset but here we are

 

[1911]

Looks to me like they are 90 degrees out of phase. Assemble the drive shaft exactly as the manual shows; that is the correct phasing.

 

[RevISK]

Looks to me like they are 90 degrees out of phase. Assemble the drive shaft exactly as the manual shows; that is the correct phasing.

It’s how it was in there so I Ass-u-me’d it was correct. I’ve just 90’d them and about to take it for a spin… wish me luck.

 

[RevISK]

It’s how it was in there so I Ass-u-me’d it was correct. I’ve just 90’d them and about to take it for a spin… wish me luck.

Sweet Jeebus on a popsicle stick. Unsurprisingly, the vibration is gone. Never ever trust a PO’s work.

On the plus side, I know a butt ton more about driveline geometry.

 

[4runner2FJ60]

The angles just need to match, if tcase output flange is 2* down, diff flange needs 2* up.

 

[RevISK]

Alright. Banner day. Finally figured out my boggy idle issue. Not exactly sure what fixed it and I really don’t care. Adjusted valves, replaced PCV and grommet, new valve cover gasket and bam, she runs like a top after another round of timing.

Steady vac at 19. Purrs like a kitten meow.

I adjusted the TPS so many times hoping for some magic but the above did it.

“Edited to correct VCV to PCV”

 

[RevISK]

Next question:

Is there any desire for this original roof rack? Believe it was a dealer installed option.

I’m going to pull it off and RTV some stainless screws in and eventually install my ARB Baserack from my truck topper.

 

[SteveH]

As far as this forum knows, there are no 'factory' racks - only generic dealer-added junk. Likely valued as scrap, unless you know a desperate person with an Oldsmobile station wagon.

If you caulk some screws into the holes, keep an eye out for rust forming under the caulk over time. UV light is hard on caulk.

 

[RevISK]

As far as this forum knows, there are no 'factory' racks - only generic dealer-added junk. Likely valued as scrap, unless you know a desperate person with an Oldsmobile station wagon.

If you caulk some screws into the holes, keep an eye out for rust forming under the caulk over time. UV light is hard on caulk.

I only meant original to the truck and did say it was likely dealer installed.

I’ve used UV resistant urethane sealant on aluminum travel trailers and RTV on the roof rack on my truck. Both have held up for many years. I would never just “caulk” the holes.

Ok, so one vote for: no one would want this