Biggest tire size on 100 series (2 Viewers)

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Nov 16, 2003
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I know 285/75R16 fits. What about 295/75R16 or 305/70R16?

I would crank the front torsion bar 2" just temporarily and install air bag in the rear until I could find decent suspension system.
 
I got 315/75 on mine. In the front, it rubs slightly against the plastic fender cover under full compression. Not a problem just a small rubbing noise. In the back it rubs on the side wall (sheet metal) again, under full deflection. One side more then the other. Need to lower the bump stops.

Doron
.
BTW Don’t crank the front up 2” you’ll kill the stock T Bars
 
Nice looking truck Doron.

What kind of suspension do you use on your truck?

Why would I kill the torsion bar? The truck are new to me so I am a bit clueless righ now. I don't have winch or bullbar yet.

My 87 Toyota Turbo truck and my Montero are fine with just cranked OEM bar and I wheel it pretty hard.
 
If you don't have the heavy bumper/winch you should be OK. Otherwise, at full deflection it will put too much stress on the T bars. Still, 2" sounds a lot for any case.
 
I have 35x10.5x16 SSR on the truck. The torsion bars are cranked up 1.5" with OME shocks, the rear has medium OME with shocks. No rubbing except high speed rubbing when the front hits hard. The tires are nice but loud.

i4c4lo
 
OK, so do I understand correctly that there is a consensus that on a 100 without lift:
- a 33" or 285/75 will fit without rubbing
- a 35" will rub although not dramatically so.

and on a 100 with a 2" lift, the 35" should be fine

that right?

(and -heck- seems to be the same as for the 80s...)

thanks
Eric
 
Eric,

if you could not find 17" wheels then your option is to get Nitto Terra Grapler. They have 325/60R18 which are about 33" or 325/65R18 which are about 35" tall.

They only have 2 ply sidewall but just get the 100% road hazard from discount tires.
 
I thought 35's were a big deal even if you have a 2 inch lift.

So with a 1.5 inch lift I should be ok with 35's? Without any other changes.

Thanks,

uzj100
 
Augie, my problem is not to find good tires, it is to find a second set of inexpensive wheels.
And the reason I was trying for 17" is to have more rubber between the ground and the rims than the 18" would allow...
thanks though
Eric
 
[quote author=uzj100
So with a 1.5 inch lift I should be ok with 35's? Without any other changes.


Well it depend on how well you tolerate rubbing and how much wheel travel you are willing to sacrifice.

It might be actually a lot easier to just install 2" body lift to accomodate 35"
 
Augie said:
Eric,

if you could not find 17" wheels then your option is to get Nitto Terra Grapler. They have 325/60R18 which are about 33" or 325/65R18 which are about 35" tall.

They only have 2 ply sidewall but just get the 100% road hazard from discount tires.

Does 325/65/18 fit on to stock '03 LX470?
 
305s with OME 865 and I get slight rubbing on a hard turn.

Have not cranked the t-bars.
 
cruiser99 said:
I got 315/75 on mine. In the front, it rubs slightly against the plastic fender cover under full compression. Not a problem just a small rubbing noise. In the back it rubs on the side wall (sheet metal) again, under full deflection. One side more then the other. Need to lower the bump stops.

Doron
.
BTW Don’t crank the front up 2” you’ll kill the stock T Bars


I am assuming you have some sort of lift on this? If 305/70's rub a little bit without a lift, it seems like 315/75's wouldn't stand a chance.
 
ok.....

so reading this thread i have come to the conclusion that.
a. if you dont have a lift you can still put 35's on and it will slightly rub
b. 33's will fit in a truck without any lift with no problem

here is my predicament....if i keep my truck i want to put a lift, tires, and a steel front bumper on it and start wheeling it.....

Well, i NEED tires now, but dont want to throw a lift in it NOW - can i go with 35's until i get a lift???? I will get a lift slapped in when i get back to the Northeast.....
 
I have 35x10.5x16 SSR on the truck. The torsion bars are cranked up 1.5" with OME shocks, the rear has medium OME with shocks. No rubbing except high speed rubbing when the front hits hard. The tires are nice but loud.

i4c4lo

Another new guy question for you.. What is the easiest and cheapest way to get 1.5-2" lift on a LC100? Is there a simple DIY way to do it? or is this going to cost me a full suspension re-fit?
 
Another new guy question for you.. What is the easiest and cheapest way to get 1.5-2" lift on a LC100? Is there a simple DIY way to do it? or is this going to cost me a full suspension re-fit?


Rear springs and 4-shocks (OME); crank the OEM t-bars to lift the front. You might want to add the Slee front diff drop kit...be warned most of us that have lifted the front with 60K or more on the odometer seem to get leaky CV boots within 5-10K of the lift (even with the diff drop kit). FYI: If you catch it in time you can simply replace the cv bands...or do it when you do the lift to save the risk.
 
ok.....

so reading this thread i have come to the conclusion that.
a. if you dont have a lift you can still put 35's on and it will slightly rub
b. 33's will fit in a truck without any lift with no problem

here is my predicament....if i keep my truck i want to put a lift, tires, and a steel front bumper on it and start wheeling it.....

Well, i NEED tires now, but dont want to throw a lift in it NOW - can i go with 35's until i get a lift???? I will get a lift slapped in when i get back to the Northeast.....

35's with no lift and slightly rub? Not even a chance.
 
technically, a 35 will rub all the same places with or without a lift, if you havent moved bump stop spacers, because the tyre still travels into the same place with or without a lift.

35's will fit, with a 30mm rear bump stop spacer, and you can put 10mm under the front.

We use a shock with 20mm more front droop and 80mm more rear droop on these, and are currently designing a coil over front shock to work with the long travel rear,a nd some new arms, hoping to fit 37's, with "afew" mods :cool:
 

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