Better recovery points for the 80?

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e9999

Gotta get outta here...
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been looking at the recovery point situation on the 80.

I was feeling pretty good about these OEM loops. But then some folks here started to comment about the possibility of the welds failing on these with a documented incident. I still feel OK about them, but perhaps it might be wise to go get some weld added to your loops if the welds don't look good enough. That would probably solve the issue.

All the same, I was thinking about a better way, especially considering that the ARB roo bar I have on now has these dinky little attachment points (what were they thinking with this klutzy washer fix?).

Here is a thought: we have these 3 attachment points under the frame rail, 2 of which were/can be used for the OEM loop. How about one uses just a rectangular flat length of thick steel bar, long enough to span the 3 holes and protrude forward enough, wide as the rail or a bit more, and something like 1/2" thick. You would have to drill 3 holes for the 3 bolts, and one bigger one in front for a shackle. Interestingly, from what I saw, it would clear both the ARB and the rear OEM bumper, maybe with some minor shims to adjust for height (lip of the front rail). It would even work on the Draw Tite hitch receiver assembly I have on. I don't know about the OEM front bumper clearing.
Seems to me that would be either very easy to DIY in your garage or very inexpensive from a shop or fabber; no weld, just straight solid steel. Would take only 1 minute to put on or remove too if you don't want it sticking out in town. And would increase ground clearance.


Thoughts?
 
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Are the holes for stand tow hooks the same as the holes for the OEM hoops? I've never had a problem with the tow hooks on my 60 failing?
 
Heffenoche said:
Are the holes for stand tow hooks the same as the holes for the OEM hoops? I've never had a problem with the tow hooks on my 60 failing?

I have not seen it mentioned clearly anywhere that there are forged tow hooks out there that have the correct spacing for the 80 frame bolts. And then you'd have hooks projecting down that may be an issue when backing up over an obstacle.
 
Why not just trailer an H3 everywhere you go .. that would make a kick ass recovery point! Hell you could probably mount one on your rear tire carrier.

070895AA.jpg




:D
 
e9999 said:
been looking at the recovery point situation on the 80.

I was feeling pretty good about these OEM loops. But then some folks here started to comment about the possibility of the welds failing on these with a documented incident. I still feel OK about them, but perhaps it might be wise to go get some weld added to your loops if the welds don't look good enough. That would probably solve the issue.

All the same, I was thinking about a better way, especially considering that the ARB roo bar I have on now has these dinky little attachment points (what were they thinking with this klutzy washer fix?).

Here is a thought: we have these 3 attachment points under the frame rail, 2 of which were/can be used for the OEM loop. How about one uses just a rectangular flat length of thick steel bar, long enough to span the 3 holes and protrude forward enough, wide as the rail or a bit more, and something like 1/2" thick. You would have to drill 3 holes for the 3 bolts, and one bigger one in front for a shackle. Interestingly, from what I saw, it would clear both the ARB and the rear OME bumper, maybe with some minor shims to adjust for height (lip of the front rail). It would even work on the Draw Tite hitch receiver assembly I have on. I don't know about the OME front bumper clearing.
Seems to me that would be either very easy to DIY in your garage or very inexpensive from a shop or fabber; no weld, just straight solid steel. Would take only 1 minute to put on or remove too if you don't want it sticking out in town. And would increase ground clearance.


Thoughts?







Interested in the OME bumper you are referring to :bounce:
 
ooops, typing too fast... will correct to OEM bumpers...
 
Bolt them though drilling out the holes, put a larger diameter backing plate on the other side, then for extra measure, weld them to the ARB...

That might be a beginning point.
-o-
 
e9999 said:
Here is a thought: we have these 3 attachment points under the frame rail, 2 of which were/can be used for the OEM loop. How about one uses just a rectangular flat length of thick steel bar, long enough to span the 3 holes and protrude forward enough, wide as the rail or a bit more, and something like 1/2" thick. You would have to drill 3 holes for the 3 bolts, and one bigger one in front for a shackle. Interestingly, from what I saw, it would clear both the ARB and the rear OEM bumper, maybe with some minor shims to adjust for height (lip of the front rail). It would even work on the Draw Tite hitch receiver assembly I have on. I don't know about the OEM front bumper clearing.
Seems to me that would be either very easy to DIY in your garage or very inexpensive from a shop or fabber; no weld, just straight solid steel. Would take only 1 minute to put on or remove too if you don't want it sticking out in town. And would increase ground clearance.


Thoughts?

If you are really looking to add strength, you need to have recovery points that are tying the frame rails together. This is the only way to take excessive force off of one rail when pulling from the side. I think that if you exerted enough force to damage the OEM loop that you might actually want it to give before you start messing up important stuff. I wouldn't want a d-ring sitting off the end of a frame rail on a piece of 1/2" stock, personally. Nice leverage arm...

Seems to me you should have some good points off of the ARB...what's up with that??? Did you buy an $800 bumper that has no mechanism to recover from the front???

Nay
 
Nay said:
If you are really looking to add strength, you need to have recovery points that are tying the frame rails together. This is the only way to take excessive force off of one rail when pulling from the side. I think that if you exerted enough force to damage the OEM loop that you might actually want it to give before you start messing up important stuff. I wouldn't want a d-ring sitting off the end of a frame rail on a piece of 1/2" stock, personally. Nice leverage arm...

Seems to me you should have some good points off of the ARB...what's up with that??? Did you buy an $800 bumper that has no mechanism to recover from the front???

Nay


OK, make it a 1" thick piece then :) and, yes, a cross-member would be better

Indeed, the ARB has only a very thin (like 1/8" or so) welded piece connected to the frame sleeve that sticks out of the bumper. Hard to believe...
 
on one hand...I want to say, "eric -- you worry too much"

but on the other hand, "eric -- you worry too much"

stop dwelling on minutia.

either use the existing tow loops, like 99% of the 80 owners to or bolt on some attachments like .75% do -- or find yourself a metal fabricator and pay them to weld something on.


those flimsy metal tabs you refer to on the ARB bumper is a jacking point -- it was not intended to be a recovery point. that lil' tidbit would've come up in a search -- had you done one.


one more thing -- this has been covered in previous threads. why create a new thread to rehash this?
 
e9999 said:
Indeed, the ARB has only a very thin (like 1/8" or so) welded piece connected to the frame sleeve that sticks out of the bumper. Hard to believe...

Ok, sell the ARB cosmetic junk to somebody who hasn't read this thread, get a bumper that does something useful besides hold a 150 lb winch you'll never use, and unbolt the stock rings and dump them in the useless old parts pile. I would think that with a replacement bumper that you would have unbolted the stock recovery points a long time ago.

I can't see any message in this thread beyond the failure of your ARB bumper to do much of anything besides add a lot of weight. Methinks you aren't asking the right question here... :confused:

Nay
 
Nay said:
Ok, sell the ARB cosmetic junk to somebody who hasn't read this thread, get a bumper that does something useful besides hold a 150 lb winch you'll never use, and unbolt the stock rings and dump them in the useless old parts pile. I would think that with a replacement bumper that you would have unbolted the stock recovery points a long time ago.

I can't see any message in this thread beyond the failure of your ARB bumper to do much of anything besides add a lot of weight. Methinks you aren't asking the right question here... :confused:

Nay

I can't see how you can imply an ARB is purely cosmetic bling and doesn't provide any real protection. :confused:
 
NorCalDoug said:
on one hand...I want to say, "eric -- you worry too much"

but on the other hand, "eric -- you worry too much"

stop dwelling on minutia.

either use the existing tow loops, like 99% of the 80 owners to or bolt on some attachments like .75% do -- or find yourself a metal fabricator and pay them to weld something on.


those flimsy metal tabs you refer to on the ARB bumper is a jacking point -- it was not intended to be a recovery point. that lil' tidbit would've come up in a search -- had you done one.


one more thing -- this has been covered in previous threads. why create a new thread to rehash this?



Doug:
I'll skip the editorial comments...
Glad to see you know whether I did a search or not. Must be nice.
I am well aware that some think that these are just for the high lift. Others think that's not the case. And how is this relevant anyway? That's all there is on the ARB, I answered the question as to whether there was a serious attachment point on it or not.
As for me, if I can make a better system very easily at low cost, I'll explore the possibility.
 
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Nay said:
Ok, sell the ARB cosmetic junk to somebody who hasn't read this thread, get a bumper that does something useful besides hold a 150 lb winch you'll never use, and unbolt the stock rings and dump them in the useless old parts pile. I would think that with a replacement bumper that you would have unbolted the stock recovery points a long time ago.

I can't see any message in this thread beyond the failure of your ARB bumper to do much of anything besides add a lot of weight. Methinks you aren't asking the right question here... :confused:

Nay


one of the reasons I did go with the ARB is the several convincing testimonials here attesting to how effective the thing is at preventing damage and protecting the truck and occupants.
 

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